Your big mistake was opening the screw on the fuel filter. Why did you do that? :confused: That was not in the process info I gave you. What you have done now is pulled air into the lines and the IP. Now you really need to prime the fuel system. Takes a long time. Careful to not overheat or burn out the starter or you will soon be replacing it. Try 10 sec. crank, 20 sec. cool-off rest. Wide-open throttle. Usually takes several minutes.

My other suggestion to you is to not worry about the timing until you can get fuel out of the injector hardline.

Please try to closely follow the steps outlined here and do no more. Trying to keep you out of trouble. ;)

So, bad news. Got the lines all primed only took a couple mins not to long, but I do believe that my pump is leaking from the attitude control on the bottom of pump. Called giles, ask for advice and that's what I found from his advice. Guess the pumps coming off. I do think Giles is going to warranty it and check it out. Just feel like how dis this happen it never leaked before this all happened.

Good Work! I would want to try to start it now, unless the fuel is really pouring out of the leak. Make sure the GPs are working. See below.

How can it leak from there, you asked? I can think of: 1. Loose pipe fitting; 2. Loose cover; 3. Bad o-ring seal. I did have one leak near there when the engine fell over onto the concrete floor before installing. That did crack the case. Of course, make sure it's reallly leaking from there. Since that is a low point, fuel could be leaking from higher up, or in front or behind, and end up dripping from the low point.

Glow Plug Section

D24 really needs ALL 6 GPs functioning for good starting. Depending on ambient temperature and general engine condition, ONE bad GP can cause a no-start condition. TWO bad GPs can cause no-start even in mild ambient temps.

Quick'n'dirty GP testing:

Visually inspect GP wiring and connections, especially the large diameter wires from battery + terminal to GP relay, and from GP relay to GPs, and GP bussbars. Clean corrosion if present. Disconnect battery first.
Measure voltage at the GPs when the system should be energized. Have a helper turn the key to the on position when the engine is cold, while you measure voltage at the GPs is near 12VDC.
Measure continuity of each GP individually. Remove bussbars and measure continuity between GP screw terminal and hex flats. DVOM should read 0 ohms or close to it. 1 ohm indicates faulty GP. You can definitively better test the GPs by removing them, and energizing them directly off the battery. Use thick wires (I use jumper cables) and watch for the GP tip to glow orange/red within 6 seconds.


More on testing GPs here.

I think that its leaking form the side cover. I'm going to pull it off and replace the seal :)

check first to see if it's loose, maybe it just needs tightned down.

Like I know that fuel drips down, I just can't see any leaking from to top of the pump, so that what makes me think that it's the side seals that are leaking. I'm going to have to pull it off to get at both seals. Just an odd thing to happen. But I was looking at dodge ram diesel with a ve style pump and they leak from there to. Says the seals dont seal sometimes with what's in the seal kit. Any suggestions? Thank you guys/gals

Send it back to Giles.

Nice work, sounds like good progress.

But as ngoma suggested, the thing I would want to check now before pulling the pump off is whether the engine will run. It is very unlikely that the drip you're seeing is the reason your already-running engine stalled. It takes a really massive fuel leak to affect the engine's operation at all. They normally run fine even when there is a relatively large fuel leak. I wouldn't expect the small leak you described to have anything to do with whatever caused your engine to quit after starting up normally, running fine for a time and moving the car some distance.

If you got the hard lines primed and the GPs are functioning, then it should be ready to start right up and stay running, even with the fuel drip. So, can it start now?? If not, then we should continue looking for another cause.

I found the a crack in the pump side cover,like I said it was leaking from. Anyone have a place I can get one? Or could I delete it? Is a ve advance housing and solenoid. The ear is cracked.

Didn't you have this IP rebuilt by Giles?

Did you get it started?