Headgasket Torque/retorque

[ian2000t]

Just replaced the headgasket on my D24Tic.

I've used an Ajusa MLS 2 notch gasket and mine has the later M12 bolts (new bolts).

I've done the following, and since ran it to full temp at idle (was running about 20 mins).


Stage 1 = 30 ft.lbs (40 Nm)

Stage 2 = 44 ft.lbs (60 Nm)

Stage 3 = 85 ft.lbs (75 Nm)

Stage 4 = protractor tighten 180° NOTE: Angle torque in one continuous movement.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...4_engines.aspx


Do I need to retorque the head now? The site re: revised Steel gaskets where I got those figures from says no need to - what do you guys reckon?

[michaelovitch]

No yo don't have to.
As i know the 180 ° procedure is the last thing to do to complete the job.

i've seen several dudes here doing the same and that's it.
moreover it's written on the website to not retighten the bolts then

you're good to go !
purge the coolant by the injection pump hose now ! : )

[ian2000t]

Ok, sounds good then! Can you explain the bit about purging the coolant?
Last night after 20 mins idling it said full temp and the coolant dropped a bit through air escaping, but the heater refused to run warm, so I guessed there was an air lock still somewhere!

[michaelovitch]

Full hot position inside the car and do like this till no more air

[ian2000t]

Ok cheers! Does it make any difference that I've for ECC (climate control) which regulates electronically regulates heater temperature somehow? Although, I think on HOT setting it might override it and force it to hot?

[michaelovitch]

I think too.

full hot with open doors in case a sensor is in the car and dictate his law
or manual mode if you have one and full hot

run the engine with an eye on the engine temp gauge and gtfo all the bubbles.
tell them the d24 is not a weed bang bong.

rev it a little and check the level
plug in all and run it on the road till the thermostat is opened
check level

check it in the following days then

temp is critical on this baby