Head Swap Coolant line difference

[bjs2oo7]

When I was searching for steel head gasket, came across machined head that had been sitting in some volvo specialists garage, he gave it to me for nothing. Now swapping it on noticed that the line that is located below the rear cam gear on my old head cannot be put on the new one because the hole is blocked off, there is a plastic bolt on outlet on old head then it goes to soft line to hard line runs across manifold side of motor. What can I do to reroute??
Any help is much appreciated

[reed]

The new head the guy gave you is for a nonturbo. I have a non turbo head. I will look at it and let you know. Is it a freeze plug? If so you may be able to take the metal pipe off your old head and put it in place of the freeze plug. Use a new oring on the on the pipe if you transfer it. i will look at the head I have and look in the parts break down and let you know.

[Slobodan]

Or, you could just forget about the metal pipe going along the intake to the back of the head, and Just use a Y connector from the expansion tank to the oil cooler coolant line. and leave that head alone. Would be easier to work with there after!. Oooorrrr.... Better yet! Remove that crappy VW water to oil cooler and install a oil to air cooler from a 240/740 turbo gasser. Just the sandwich adapter part. They will keep the oil cooler, and won't fail in a way that will mess up your cooling system. Oh and in doing this you won't need any water lines going to the cooler. Neat huh? less junk to worry about.

[v8volvo]

Agree with Kevin, better to take the opportunity to install the good oil-to-air cooler and forget about the junk VW oil-to-water cooler. It is nice to not have that coolant hose running over the top of the head -- easier to get the valve cover off if it is not there.

What is the hole blocked off with?

[bjs2oo7]

yea that sounds like a plan I could easily find a air oil cooler, I can just remove and block off the coolant hoses that go to the old cooler right? Where would it be easy to tie in the air oil cooler lines?

[bjs2oo7]

Also off topic question, how important is the tension of the timing belts because I cant find a belt tension gauge and it is already fairly tight without pulling on the water pump. It was difficult getting the belt on and I can barely move the water pump at all using leverage.

[IceV_760]

Well, mine have run really good after changing both belts.
And only way we set tension was, at when you can turn it 45* degrees
with two fingers using some force, it is okay.

[bjs2oo7]

When I said the holes blocked off I meant that its the same design as the turbo head but hole wasn't drilled through.

[v8volvo]

If the belt will barely go on with the water pump fully slacked, and you can't tension it at all, then the belt is defective. You should get one that is the correct length and not run it with the one you have now. It should slip on easily (make sure the cam sprocket is loose or off -- makes it much easier) and the pump should have some good range of movement for tension adjustment.

You know about having to set the cam and injection pump timing with the taper-fit and slip-fit cam pulleys, dial indicator, locking plate, etc right? If not you may want to read up on it and make sure you do it right, otherwise it will run poorly and you won't be happy with it.

[bjs2oo7]

I think I am just going to cap off the top outlet on the thermostat housing for now, hard enough to get it up to temp anyways.