Angry d24t coolant pressure issue
 

So I dot a d24t running that had been parked for a bit
Changed fluids and regular stuff
Was getting warm on short drives around the block
Never past 3/4 on gauge

Parked it changed thermostat and fuel filter water separator
Now it's grumpy and doesn't want to start
Seems like it's leaking from all of the small return lines from the injectors
Could my return line be plugged and be flooding it out ?

Seems to be pressurizing coolant

Maybe bad head gasket?

Not plugged but if they are old probably leaky and can therefore allow air ingress when not running, which can partially drain the IP, which makes for hard starting. Not as common as partially drained IP from a leaky IP mainshaft seal, but a possibility. At a minimum you will want to replace the leaky hoses if only to preserve the variety of coolant hoses directly underneath the drip path. If those deteriorate and blow, the engine will quickly, catastrophically overheat.

Hard starting sticky.

Possible. Does the radiator hose get hard soon after starting (i.e. before the engine warms up, so before the coolant should logically pressurize from heat?).

Ok I'll start with the fuel lines and replace

What size are the small fuel lines between injectors
Most are leaking so I'll start there

Forum member Anders uses 1/8" fuel line. Likely the easiest to procure at your FLAPS.

Original was the braided type. If that's what you have, and it's leaking only at the ends where it connects to the injector nipples, you can often get some more time out of them by cutting the (stretched-out) ends off and refitting them. That braided hose is durable and widely available at Bosch service centers, or from VW parts websites.

An interesting replacement is ether-based polyurethane clear fuel hose (found in motorcycle shops, and trucking equipment shops). Very good, without the braiding reinforcement. That's ether-based, NOT the ester-based version. Since it's clear it can help with troubleshooting.

Again, 1/8" or its metric equivalent.

Sweet
And yes mine is braided and the braiding is loose and tattered looks original
I'll order some clear lines up!
Thanks

When you say you changed some fluids, did you have the coolant out of it?

Did you get all the air out before starting it? These will not burp simply by filling the rad up, you need to remove the hose from the top of the cold start advance thermostat housing and slowly fill until coolant runs out.

Running with an air pocket will get one of these hot quickly and the HG is sensitive.

Not the coolant
It was low but looked good
I just topped it off

Where can I find some directions on a proper flush once the thermostat arrives

Proper flush meaning proper procedure to burp air out? Easy, run it with coolant line going to wax thermostat (cold start device) disconnected as v8volvo mentioned. The bottom of the hose should be held up slightly so it's the highest point in the cooling system (above res). As the motor warms up, coolant will start to come out of that hose. Easy enough to catch it. Let it do that for a minute or two, and you're set.

The thermostat housing likes to seep on some older models where electrolysis has taken it's toll on some of the narrower mating surfaces; a little coolant safe rtv might help there. Mine seems to seep a little intermittently past the o-ring.

No power at glow plugs
 

so I had a couple min to check stuff out other than the fuel lines I was checking some electrical and found no power to glow plugs on cranking

It's 70 degrees here but I figure there should be power at least at cranking

There is also an extra electric inline fuel pump pulling from the tank
It is cool nbected to a bus bar
I disconnected it and it works with direct power
If I jumper to the glow plugs with my aligator clips it instantly blows my In line fuse (30 amp )

So o am assuming there is some powering up issue

Sorry for all my possibly dumb questions but I've got much learning to do

So what is your question?

Lol
I'm assuming the glow plugs get power from the big square relay
What triggers this relay ?
Also where might I be getting a short circuit at the glow plugs?

My wiring is a little strange as the car was a prv
Swapped with h a d24t from a 760 with some components from d24 240 also

GP relay triggered by the temp sensor screwed into the rear of the head, hiding under the rear cam cogged gear that drives the IP belt. Actually located more inbetween the cam gear and the IP rather than directly under the cam gear. Disconnecting the temp sensor should fool the relay into giving max GP time.

Hard Starting sticky, specifically the Glow Plug Section

More on GP testing

There are two different glow systems it could have depending on what cars those parts came from. Post some pictures of the relays and setup and we'll help you identify what's there.

Short circuit could be a shorted plug, or the glow plug bus insulation missing somewhere and touching something. The plugs draw 12+ amps each though, so if you're concerned there's a short because it blew a 30A fuse while testing it, that would be normal. Do a visual check for shorted bus or supply wire, and if OK, start checking the rest of the system out.

Got it
 

Replaced return lines from injectors
Burped the cooling system
Checked for shorts found none
Pressurized the tank and forced fuel untill the return was free of bubbles
Charged battery and jumped with another car and after a bit of cranking 4-5 cranks 15-20 sec each it fired and now starts easy
Thanks for the help !