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  #1  
Old 01-04-2021, 08:04 PM
Bjjfitr Bjjfitr is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: United States
Vehicle: D24t land rover/ 2.1 renault jeep
Posts: 4
Default New member help needed please

Hi new member from Flagstaff az, I've got a d24t i got from a friend. Motor was rebuilt but never installed and had water get into it. I've re honed the cylinder, replaced the cam and adjusted all valves. I'm installing into a 00 land rover discovery 2. I've taken three different transmissions and gotten that to mate up and I'm ready to stab the motor and weld in mounts, what i need help with is i have boxes of parts and no diagrams for wiring or coolant hose routing. Does anytime have any pictures or diagrams of coolant hoses? I've got about 3/4 of them but missing the rest. Also a wiring diagram would help. Main temp sensor and oil pressure are easy enough but there are other sensors i would like help with. Thank you for the help
-Chuck
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2021, 11:10 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: New York
Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
Posts: 900
Default Need a walk-around video of the cooling hoses?

Welcome to the Forum! You`ll read it here a million times... but here it is: PLS be careful with the TB.
You`ll need special, precision tools with some diesel skills to do it right (or good help from someone who knows/owns them.

Interesting configuration you are building there! Post pictures for us here once you get closer fitting it in.
I have the factory d24t book somewhere so I could picture the wiring diagram for you, if very necessary.

You`ll be surprised to realize how simple it is: these d24 engines do not need a lot to run, you`ll be able to build your setup very easily. The Inj pump needs 12volts to the shutoff valve, starter needs wires and the glowplugs need their wire, alternator, beefy battery cables and that`s about it. :`)

I recently refurbished one of these and documented many of the major steps in a thread `Rear axle/differential setup`. It may help you to see all engine details well enough that you could build your own cooling system.
( https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=2044 )
Posts #54 to #59 show quite a lot of the cooling system and I did spend a lot of time listing all hoses in there and the part numbers.

In post #77 you can see walk-around videos of the engine running on a stand and could see/check out the routing of many coolant hoses. Those links to my d24 YT-videos may help too, or I can make a NEW, full close-up video in the garage tomorrow (and go hose by hose, to show you). LMK what exactly you`d like to know.

This video also helps some:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x0qJfFrZUA

I also have a start-up video uploaded, in 3 parts, it shows the cooling system; look for it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHbjoEiOEBo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8MP3d6dhDk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W5aAjXFmfY

This one is a walk-around video too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x0qJfFrZUA

What is your engine exactly, an earlier d24 with turbo added or a factory d24t? What year, and are you keeping the oil cooler (if any)? (there are some slight differences in d24/d24t coolant hose setups)

I also have used and new coolant hoses for this engine and could take pictures of them for you, measure length, angles, etc.

Last edited by RedArrow; 01-04-2021 at 11:40 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2021, 05:05 AM
Bjjfitr Bjjfitr is offline
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Location: United States
Vehicle: D24t land rover/ 2.1 renault jeep
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Thank you! I'll go through all the videos before i ask for more. As far as i know it came out of an 85 but i have no idea i got the engine and boxes of parts. It's a factory turbo with the oil cooler and i plan on keeping the cooler. As far as the electrical a diagram isn't totally needed i was just looking to identify the sensors/sending units. For example there appear to be two coolant temp sensors one side of the head the other in the very back of the head, one would go to a gauge but not sure of the other. Also the injector pump has the connector for fuel shut-off but there is another one at the base of the pump not sure about that one. I can wire it up just part identification is helpful, i don't have a car here to look at to trace wires. I'm not totally in the dark with older euro diesels i have a working xj Cherokee with a factory 2.1 Renault turbo diesel i found and swapped in. I'm pretty happy there's help available and parts, I've been flying solo with the Jeep for a while.
Thanks again!
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2021, 12:12 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Temp sensor at the front of the cylinder head is for the temp gauge.

Temp sensor at the rear of the cylinder head is for the glow plug relay.

Solenoid near the base of the IP is the altitude compensation timing advance. Connects to a rectangular microswitch screwed into a barometric diaphragm (shaped like a slightly undersize tuna can-- look for it in your parts boxes)(On the Volvo it was mounted on a bracket on the inner fender next to the GP relay). Important that that solenoid gets +12VDC under normal run conditions, otherwise the engine will run a chronic overly advanced timing condition. IOW, that solenoid should be seeing +12VDC at altitudes <4,000 ft. My opinion: That subsystem was designed backwards. A better design would have been a mechanism requiring no voltage at normal conditions, energizing voltage for high altitude.
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2021, 12:42 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Location: New York
Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
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https://youtu.be/tjvCRIAu7hU

Here's a super boring video I made for you to see the routing of hoses for the cooling system
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2021, 05:25 PM
Bjjfitr Bjjfitr is offline
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Vehicle: D24t land rover/ 2.1 renault jeep
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Ngoma i do not have the timing advance box in my parts is there a way to bypass it? Can i just put 12v to it all the time? Is it necessary? My Renault jeep diesel has the bosch ve pump as well but no solenoid. Redarrow thank you for the video coolant system is totally cleared up! There's one more plug behind the turbo on the block in place of a freeze plug what does that do? Thanks to all for the help
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2021, 06:42 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjjfitr View Post
There's one more plug behind the turbo on the block in place of a freeze plug what does that do?


That one sounds like an engine block heater. Maybe a rarely seen device in AZ! Your engine might have spent some time living somewhere further north in its earlier days if it has this. The engines start easily in all but the most frigid weather without plugging in, assuming everything else is healthy with the motor and fuel/glow systems, so I imagine block heaters are not often installed down in the SW states.

You don't need to connect anything to it now, but you may as well keep it in the engine if you already have it, since there is always a chance it could be useful some day. E.g. starting on a very cold morning at high altitude if you have a dead glow plug or two, it might make the difference to get it going. I guess Flagstaff does get some cold mountain weather sometimes, no?

While you have easy access and no coolant in the motor, you may want to R&R its O-ring since they can get brittle and seep after long time. Otherwise there is not much to worry about with them.

If you ever do want to use it, it should accept a generic block heater cord available at any auto parts store. Phillips/Temro brand or similar.
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  #8  
Old 01-05-2021, 06:57 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Sounds like a fun project, we will look forward to hearing/seeing more. You may have seen there is another active member here with a very similar setup, LR Discovery with a D24T and your same recipe of combination Volvo/LR ZF automatic transmission. Member jetfiremuck. You would probably be interested in looking up his posts or getting in touch directly to share info on this interesting swap combination.

As RedArrow mentioned, if the motor has been apart, then you want to be sure you have everything carefully squared away in terms of the front timing belt, including the high specified ~350# torque on the front crankshaft pulley bolt. Our favorite topic here these days. Special locking tool required to hold the crank and achieve the torque spec (and typically only doable with engine installed in vehicle since the force will tip over any engine stand). You probably know about this considering how far you have gotten things already, but always worth a mention just in case.
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2021, 08:27 PM
Bjjfitr Bjjfitr is offline
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Vehicle: D24t land rover/ 2.1 renault jeep
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V8volvo thanks for the help, I'll remove the block heater and refresh the o ring. Were at 7000 ft here in Flagstaff so enjoying the morning 15 degrees recently so a block heater may help. As to the crank bolt i got it with an impact but that's it. I built my own cam gear locking tool to time the injector pump so may give a try building a tool to lock the crank. Can't seem to find one online to look at, any part numbers or old pictures? Searches bring me to old threads but nothing yet.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2021, 08:41 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjjfitr View Post
Ngoma i do not have the timing advance box in my parts is there a way to bypass it? Can i just put 12v to it all the time? Is it necessary?
Yes you could simply wire it in parallel with the IP fuel cutoff solenoid so it is energized whenever the engine is running. Apparently it was a legally mandated emissions control starting in 1984. Previously the service center was required to manually set a more advanced timing for customers driving principally at higher altitudes, and affix a sticker "THIS VEHICLE IS MODIFIED FOR HIGH ALTITUDE DRIVING" to the front IP mounting bracket.

OT: Who do you train with?
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