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HV's 82 D24 turbo build
HV: I made this new thread for you since your original one was so clogged up with crap. I appologize for the clutter that I too was guilty of adding to in your original thread. Please continue to post updates in this new thread.
Jason Starting off with a 82 245GL estate Diplomat edition. 260k miles, I started on the manifold today, thankfully with the leaky valve cover-the mani-bolts were easy to remove. I had to cut the rear flange-pipe with a torch since the bolts were not easily accessable... went ahead and chopped the front flange-bolts that attached the mani to the pipe since the torch was already lit I started the transition by torching the flange off of the rear manifold about 1/2 inch from the beginning of the flange... and put the back mani in place of the front... upside down, and the front is in the back.. upside down. make sense? And thats about as far as i could go today.. Should be interesting to see what im going to do for motor mounts... "I had to un-bolt the mounts to shift the engine over so the turbo will fit.. are there OEM mounts for the turbo edition that naturally shift the engine over? or does that require a whole new bell housing or crossmember? etc... O_o pics tomorrow! |
#2
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Wow sounds cool. I was toying with the idea of using the N/A exhaust manifolds to run a twin turbo setup. Looking forward to seeing them.
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Redblocks are fun and easy but Greenblocks take skill. '79 245 with D24TIC + M47 |
#3
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raining today and my garage is PACKED! I managed to tweak the smoke screw in quite a bit, enough so it doesnt run away... bolted the manifold back on for a quick test drive, MUCH more responsive.
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#4
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success!
after forcing myself to finish the mani today, things finally came together.. and the hood closes! I decided to put the turbo up toward the oem airbox location. since the outrageous bends and having to re-do the mounts to put the turbo in the stock location would be a huge hassle. going to run the oil lines tomorrow! any tips on where to splice in for oil pressure? am I going to have to drill a hole in the oil pan to install a drain? "thats what I had to do on my last na-to-turbo project... To make the flange, I used a thin piece of cardboard, placed it on the flange and hammered on all the hard surfaces with a rubber/plastic hammer so that it would cleanly show where to cut, cutout the flange and traced it onto a piece of 1/4 spare plate steel with a sharpie then went over the sharpie with an engraver so that I could see the lines with the heavy torch-glasses on- proceed to cut out the flange with a oxy-acetylene torch then clean it up with a grinder.... all of the elbows and fittings were from misc old exhausts i had lying around including the OEM volvo piping. total cost so far: 0$ everything used i had on hand/salvaged from other projects or got for free "including the turbo" 'thanks jordan!' mock-up stage finished installed peeking over the upper core support ^_^ |
#5
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Love the pics.... And
Let The Fun Begin!
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Redblocks are fun and easy but Greenblocks take skill. '79 245 with D24TIC + M47 |
#6
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=( started working on it just now and im at a bit of a delimma.... where to put the drain? it appears that the back of the oil pan is bolted to the transmission? wtf?
ill see if I cant recirculate it back into the valve cover last time I tried that on my paseo... the oil was forcing its way around the seals... but the turbo was mounted pretty low and had to force its way back up into the engine.... we shall see!, I plan on teeing off from the oil pressure sensor... |
#7
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Quote:
Please keep the forum updated on your progress!
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Jim 1985 Volvo 740 GLE turbo diesel |
#8
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WUDUUP! finally finished it today, build cost: $26.74
To solve my oil feed line issue, I did the same thing as my last project since it worked so well... I picked up the following at HomeDepot SKU # Item Name 046843072008 2x 1/8 brass coupler 048643072053 1x 1/8 nipple 048643070059 1x ice maker kit "comes with a valve that you take apart and use the main body as the 'T'" I ended up shredding the threads on the 'T' on the short side where the turn pin screws together, so I just soldered it back in place. Thankfully the turbo came with feed and return lines, so all I had to figure out how to join the the engine to the lines... For the return... since the turbo sits pretty high in the engine bay... and the oil pan was going to be a pain in the ass to drill and tap since its apart of the bell housing.... I drilled a 7/16? hole in the valve cover and welded a female compressor fitting "like the one you put on the end of your air tools" directly over the hole then joined the turbo and valve cover together with a 1"? piece of heater hose. Had an old intake from an 08? corolla, I cut a corner section out and it fits PERFECTLY! I heated up one end and pipe-clamped it to the turbo. questions? i might possibly, maybe have an answer... dont count on it.... TIPS: learn to solder with a torch! have REALLY GOOD flux and not real thick solder! get extra brushes for the flux! have a spill pan under your car X_X have kitty litter and a broom handy! have your buddy watching all the oil lines on your first startup in case something isnt right! TESTDRIVE: Since I dont have a wastegate =( I hooked up a boost gauge just to make sure I dont accidently push 40psi lol, after I got on the road and really got on it "after it was warm" I got about 15 lbs of good solid continuous boost, sometime it would jump to about 18... can it go that high on my stock setup? oh btw... i pulled the oil sender out to take it with me to homedepot to check the threads, got what I needed then came home. My buddy was with me and wanted to see the progress, i wanted to show him the smoke on startup lol, so i cranked the engine up from through the window then walked up to the engine bay on the passenger side... what do I see? a SOLID stream of pitch black oil coming form the side of the engine! FUUUUUUUCCKK! im so stupid... thankfully i turned it off and only lost about a gallon of oil... now theres a oil slick about 1.5ft wide and 14ft long down my driveway! yay! block to press. sensor to turbo fitting thing oil feed line coming from the turbo, i had some weird brass fitting I drilled out and used a fitting from the ice maker kit and soldered it all together. finished setup i plan on fastening a chrome pipe about 4" in diameter and about 10 inches tall to the hood, right now it closes perfectly, but when I take off the up-pipe vibrates against the hood. |
#9
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I would stick to around 15lbs without an intercooler. You should really add an oil cooler to it as well. With the lack of piston oil squirters, and lack of any oil cooling, its gonna be hard on the engine.
I did the hood stack for a few days, but it got kinda annoying. It does look and sound cool though! Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics! |
#10
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Quote:
btw, im planning on pulling the thermostat out of the whole cooling system =( on a short run the engine got about 1/4 inch from the red zone X_X ive got a 30 amp fan buuuuutt..... its strapped to the condenser X_X since I dont plan on having A/C.... ill just rip all that shit out and see if it stays cooler... i am using a gas radiator... could that be some of the problem? |
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