RedArrow Refurbishes d24t from a brown 740

[RedArrow]

D24T resurrection


Anyone ever painted the injector hard lines successfully?

They are always rusty and corroded but I`ve seen diesel VW golfs with showroom quality looking hard lines...
I always thought it would be nice to find something that stays on well.

GN

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

Anyone ever painted the injector hard lines successfully?

A lot of industrial diesel engines have the hard lines painted the same as the engine, seems to work? I think you should paint them the same color as the IP.

As for the broken stud removal, WD40 is nowhere near the top choice. Get some PB Blaster or Kroil for better results.

Reverse drill bits-- try a Fastenal or Tacoma Screw near you.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by ngoma

I think you should paint them the same color as the IP.
...
As for the broken stud removal, WD40 is nowhere near the top choice... Color suggestion accepted

Reverse drill bits-- try a Fastenal or Tacoma Screw near you.

It was very hard to find even some wd40, these days places like A.zone are `attacked`, esp in the weekends. (Brake cleaner is what TP was a few months ago!)

Thank you for the note, I`ll get some Kroil next time then.

About the Tacoma Screw: I really like their website, simple and organized.



Progress on the d24t:


The starter made its way on the engine today.
I had to make some fresh wirings, new connectors for the Bosch one (it is different than the Remy I was using earlier).
I cleaned up the thick battery cables and routed them very well and out of the way.

The EGR piping had to be used bc I did not have blockoff plates ready and also had no gaskets for them. I used copper high heat gasketmaker but I`ll order 2 sets of good looking blockoff plates.

Actually it would be nice to have the intake downpipe from a non-egr TD car (anyone has that avail, used?). I even have multiple new orings for that kind (in Volvo paper bags, labeled d24t - nice)

I had to dremel away lots of surface rust and I did my best to even out the burnt&pitted surface on the exhaust manifold joint.


So the EGR pipe got installed. First, I had to install a new stud into the manifold and then chop the end off (no space for more than a nut, behind the installed pipe = idiotic design really* = because there IS enough space in the area, they could have curved that mushroom pipe better)

I used high heat brake grease in the exhaust manifold holes and on threads.


Next, to install the pipe that runs into the front of the turbo (dont forget o-ring, large pin)
and I had to get the breather hoses cleaned up.
They were ordered from Volvo and still had a sticker on them including the part number. But someone wanted to protect the longer one from heat AND chafing; they installed some heatproofing foam onto it, using glue, and some alu foil on top of it all. It was a pain to remove.

Cleaning the clamps and setting up all hoses so none of them is stressed.
Cleaning up the valve in the front of the intake, checking the oring in there, too (checked out).

Ziptie-ing the routed battery cables and tightening all clamp screws everywhere on the engine.



For the injection pump, I made new IN and OUT fuel hoses and routed them both into a bottle that has a vent too, just in case.

Connected the inline low pressure fuel pusher and brought in the big battery from my d24 car.

Made a new wire to energize the IP
and checked around the entire engine for loose bolts, leaks, whatever it may be.

Attached the long exhaust downpipe and filled the fuel bottle with new ATF for fuel (lubricating and cleaning the pump from dirt, if any (but it makes the engine smoke a little more and smell worse than it would normally smell).


Prepared a longnose to manually do glowplugs, a knife, and the good old 2x4 wood chunk (to block off the air and choke the motor in case of a runaway).




The motor was ready again to get started,

it was a long process to go through all of the exterior, etc.


It was definitely worth it, to me, it was an awesome experience and very motivating.
I`d do it again and again but it is high time now to take a break for a few days and maybe deal with something else (such as building a cooling system for it??? ).

[RedArrow]

Despite the assist from the small inline fuel pump and me pulling the throttle linkage to the max, the injectors needed some cranking before it fired up.

Wow it runs so well! Keeps idle, runs and sounds clean, idles perfectly. Feels and sounds so peppy.


It definitely needed a huge cleanup, injection pump timing (currently set to 0.94), all gaskets, glowplugs and on and on..


The video sucks but here`s a link. I haven`t run it for more than a minute. There was a short gentle revving at the end but the recording cuts off before it... ugh... bc my phone storage got full thanks to the long d24t project.


RUNS AWESOME! and I shut it off at the pump lever and restarted it 2-3 times,
just for few seconds to know that it turns on like a dream and runs like a swiss watch.
The phone`s recorder is crap, it picked up all kind of noises and garage echo but I`ll take a new video another day.

So that`s the good news... A d24t car almost made it to the *crusher* and I`m so glad it did not.
Tons of work it involved, I don`t even know how many hours. Let`s not even guess. It was two weeks ago when I bought the donor car.

Here's vid from yest
https://youtu.be/DpEAvlqdq6E

And the startup from today is here (again, running on ATF):
https://youtu.be/hbdBGVHXa0E

And some more picts below:

[RedArrow]

Today I originally planned to paint the fuel hard lines to the olive color I used for the injection pump. I decided to get a spare (nonturbo d24) set painted then swap them once it dried. Bad idea because the d24 - d24t hard lines arent exactly the same. To be continued... 2 of the pipes are differently bent, to make up for the differences between the nonturbo vs TD pumps themselves. I could grab those two and make a d24t unit but then it is easier to have the current d24t one painted.

So I had to come up with a new project idea... which was to sort through some of the boxes that hold the misc parts from the donor car.

When taking the engine out of the car, I removed everything that was under the hood. Including the entire engine harness and everything electrical, for later reference, relays, connectors etc;
but the donor car also had pretty bad quality wire insulation, all of it has been slowly but surely biodegrading away.


Next today,
I started building the cooling system for this refurbished d24t.

I came up with all the hoses I have, from 4 engines and some nice new set of hoses as well. Mackay is a good Australian brand.
I found a large bag of blue stainless ABA hose clamps too. I also cleaned up all the used ones that looked to be in good condition.

I did the same for the used coolant hoses that came from the donor car. They cleaned up very well and are okay.
Some small sections were totally bad but other sections and entire hoses were in very good shape. Also, made by Volvo OEM / NOS hoses, that are getting very hard to find now.
Most of the donor hoses really did clean up very well and are in good condition.


Some other parts of the cooling system I had to build from scratch and some of it I already did for another engine so it came handy today.



Then I started lining up the pieces and installing them onto the engine and securing them the right way, making sure to provide easy approach of the clamps for the future when this makes it into a car. I also have a brand new looking Nissens radiator from the automatic TD donor car so I am planning to use that for now.


I will list here the hoses that I installed on the engine,
and, on another day I will get all of the VOLVO part numbers from these hoses and list them into this thread for later reference for those who need to know.

I also installed an 87Celsius Wahler thermostat, a new o-ring.
(The upper and lower hoses you currently see on the engine are for the d24 nonturbo car and I put them on only bc first I thought I`ll use one of my d24 nonturbo radiators for this engine. I`ll remove both and add the proper d24T hoses.)

I have brand new hoses for the d24t but the Volvo hoses from the donor car also seem to be in good condition so I`ll use them on the engine until it gets in a car (then I think I`ll decide to use the new ones up).



The hoses installed today (no particular order):


1.
There is a short connector section in the rear of the engine. The hose connects the long metal coolant pipe (the one that runs behind the intake) with the rear of the d24t cylinder head.


2.
Radiator upper hose
For the coolant that runs into the rad to cool down.
part number: (this is everything I can see written on the hose, the part number may only be a certain part of it)
1 257 347 IMP 3787 (for d24t engine)
1257364 7462 0883 (for d24 nonturbo engine)

3.
Radiator lower hose
This is the longest hose, it transfers coolant back to the engine after cooled in radiator.
part number: (this is everything I can see written on the hose, the part number may only be a certain part of it)


4.
Hose from above thermostat housing
It runs towards the oil cooler.
part number: (this is everything I can see written on the hose, the part number may only be a certain part of it)
1257446 IMP 7462 0699

5.
Oil cooler coolant hose #2, front
This connects the front of the long metal coolant pipe and the oil cooler.
part number: (this is everything I can see written on the hose, the part number may only be a certain part of it)
V VW 072 117 413 (this is the longer hose of the two oilcooler hoses)


6.
Breather hose
From intake valve to the front of the turbo
part number: (this is everything I can see written on the hose, the part number may only be a certain part of it)
MEO VW 072 117 414

7.
Breather hose #2
From top of the valve cover to front of turbo.
part number: (this is everything I can see written on the hose, the part number may only be a certain part of it)
Part number 1328650

8.
Coolant hose
From the top of the upper rad hose housing to the Ip coldstart device, top.

9.
Coolant hose
From right side of the thermostat housing until the T joint below the vacuum pump.
I built this so IDK part number.

10.
Coolant hose
Between T joint and Ip coldstart device, bottom
I built this so IDK part number. I can share what size and diameter of a hose I used.

11.
Coolant hose
This hose starts at the right of the T joint and I connected the end into the rear of the cylinder head.
12 and 13 is normally between, by factory setup, because there is the heating in the car, right?

12.
Coolant hose
Into heater core
I`ll read the Volvo oem part number off the hose once I have some time.

13.
Coolant hose
Out of heater core
I`ll provide the Volvo part number from the hose once I have some time.



Normally, you would have 12 and 13 in between the rear of the head and the `T joint`.

One of them is part number 1328 110 IMP 7462 03 10
But the other hose`s part number is partially worn off: 1 x (3or2?) x (5?) 7 x (3 or 8?) 4 x (3 or 8?)

14.
The T-joint under the vacuum pump, has a drain valve.
Volvo 1328458

15.
Oil separator mushroom on top of valve cover
076129 101 A or MANN 39 111 70 901 MHO

16.
The hose that connects to the rear of the head and has a 90 degree bend:
I used a VW part, GATES 71423.

The only thing the cooling system needs is me to unwrap the Nissens radiator and put it on.
Now that the engine starts and runs, pump holds fuel and no air leaks,
I changed my 1/4 (wrong size) transparent injector return lines to the proper `Made in Germany` black, quality hoses.



What else did I do today?



Found a few new PS bushings and added them into the bracket.
To `finalize` the fuel system, I added permanent clamps onto the IP for the in&out banjos and other joints, return etc.



The donor car had Volvo belts on everything, TB, rear pump belt, alternator, accessory, ac, everywhere.

Some of the part numbers are here for your reference, it is from the 3 front belts (ac, p steering, alternator).
Volvo did a great job stamping the sizes on the belts, that`s why I`m including that photo.

d24T engine mount part numbers:
Left 1272676
Right 120621 6 IMP

[RedArrow]

Here`s where the cooling system progress currently is at.

[RedArrow]

Some more pictures

[ngoma]

Very nice work, Pride in Ownership!

If you are going to use the plastic tee with the drain valve, inspect it well. I like to use them because the valve is convenient, but have had 2 of them disintegrate on me. One cracked at the base of the small tube, the other one just crumbled apart. Probably exposure to oil and heat over time.

Interesting find about the differently shaped #6 injector hardline. I had salvaged a set from a 240 D24 and have kept it as a spare but maybe it won't fit so easy? Maybe with the IP rotated out more it would have enough clearance. Better for access to the rear injectors and GPs as well.

[RedArrow]

Thank you for the compliments. I`ll try fitting the nonturbo hard lines for you to see, next time when I`m near the IP.
I think my IP brackets are as high as I could fit them smartly (it could go higher (by the slots) but then the top of big bracket would interfere with the seating of an injector tool. I believe my pump is tilted out as much as possibly it could be in my case, without creating a problematic future injector service (which I had a couple of times, sometimes as a trip roadside ordeal).


Today,
there was a heavy thunderstorm in my area so I didn`t have the progress I expected
but by the evening I had the 740Td Nissens radiator thoroughly flushed inside and well-rinsed on the outside too.
I also used a special, industrial coil cleaner to have it immaculately and chemically clean outside. All fins look amazingly clean and even `newer` than it actually is which is very new I think BTW. The coil cleaner is super strong and one cant leave it on longer than 5mins or it will eat at the metal (I think). It foams up then you rinse it for long time with garden hose. Ideally, from the rear towards the front side of the car. Reversed direction of how dirt went in, right? Liquid is 1 part cleaner and 3 parts water so only 1/4 (=25%) is product, the rest is tap water. Have it pre-mixed in spray bottle. Protect your skin, eyes, keep pets and kids away and avoid getting it on plants/grass

I discovered the label on the radiator, showing a sticker with the part number on it; they fitted it at the factory.
There was nothing scary coming out so I think it can be considered literally new. Good deal! The Auto tranny line fittings should get closed/capped off. Would it work as engine oil cooler))?

QUESTION:

Anyone using this AUTOMATIC NISSENS rad in their manual* d24t cars btw? Looks like I could fit this into my d24t m46 car. Not sure.
Maybe by modding hoses and chopping some of them up and changing curves of the elephant tusk length ultrathick d24t lower hose (if necessary but i doubt).
IDK. Looks like a perfect fit. To be continued later...


I swapped the nonturbo d24 upper&lower hoses to the d24t upper&lower hoses and currently building a bracket/frame system that will hold the radiator in a comfy position and leave space for the fan rotor etc. I also want it to be able to roll with the engine stand but still be easily removable.

I managed to find some spares of the T joints you mentioned in your post and compared some turbo-nonturbo versions. I should have built my d24t cooling system with the valve version so thanks I`ll swap that center piece out to have the valve `as an extra convenience`.

I took some picts of the nonturbo-turbo fans too. The red one is a d24 nonturbo rotor by volvo and the white one is an aisin rotor for the d24t volvo car. The d24t version has 7blades and is about an inch larger in diameter.

I have no idea which moves more air but I`ll put my votes on the white d24t rotor. But idk bc red one has larger blade surfaces. I dont actually care



I also wrote down part #s from all the volvo cooling hoses and I`ll add them to my previous post for others to have, in case they want (or can find) oem hoses.



Found two souvenirs from the donor car:
An item my d24t wagon needed: left side rear mud flap.

And I found the fuel tank lid which shows how amazing this metallic dark brown was.
It must have been a gorgeous looking td sedan, especially waxed and under sunshine.

It was a nice car, may it Rest In Piece!
The savable parts and the engine, transmission, driveshaft, axle&differential, front suspension, crossmember etc are in good hands (all of engine accessories removed and cleaned, adjusted, set, cleaned up... the car would be happy to see this progress... and its heart lives on (beating strong and healthy):

For video click here:
https://youtu.be/rPEuA4Vgp-Q

It smokes ONLY because it is cold AND I was using automatic tranny fluid as fuel (to clean up the pump and injectors).

[RedArrow]

Here`s some parts for tomorrow to clean up. Some mounts and the shield, etc.

Note the filter housing top in this unacceptable condition. Even the bleeder was fully stuck. (About the banjo fittings: do NOT use any sharp object to try getting old hoses off these. I melted it off by the torch instead of ruining the sealing surfaces with plier or worse: by a knife.)

************************************************** *******

And now, see the beautiful brown color that this sedan had!
The fuel lid, often the proud proof of owning a turbodiesel, still shiny.

The 35 year old car had only 182,580miles.
With an estimated average consumption of 27MPG, this car burned 6763 Gallons of fuel which is probably more likely 7500 Gallons because of idling, warming ups, etc. All of that fuel went through this door and was paid for. In today`s USA fuel prices, that would come to $18750 USD, calculated by $2.50/gallon!

[/B][/B][/SIZE]I hope the previous owner (same person who bought this brown turbodiesel 740 sedan car new in 1985 and kept it all along) will see this thread one day.

Much respect! You tried keeping this car on the road but it wasn`t easy. Unfortunately the rust also became a problem. I heard you had a 1986 wagon TD also.

As you can see, I am cleaning it all up and reviving the engine! I did my best to have it back to what it once was when you fell in love with this car, back in the mid-80`s.
Best of luck and god bless, thank you again for this fantastic d24t revival opportunity.
If you ever want to feel driving again a d24t Volvo turbodiesel car, Please let me know.
I`ll drive to you and let you drive the red TD Volvo wagon with the same engine! But it is a standard shifter.

THE ENGINE LIVES ON!!
THERE IS A VIDEO AVAILABLE IN THE PREVIOUS POSTING IF YOU LOOK ABOVE. or click here:
https://youtu.be/rPEuA4Vgp-Q

The d24t runs happily again. It smokes ONLY because it is cold AND I was using automatic tranny fluid as fuel (to clean up the pump and injectors).