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#1
11-22-2018, 02:15 PM
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At the risk of reopening an old thread...
I need to replace the PS bracket on my 1982 D24-powered 245 Wagon. I believe I have found a replacement bracket. This looks like a fairly simple replacement; can anybody confirm that it can be done without disconnecting the pump from the system? If it is a simple unbolt, replace bracket and reassemble I'll likely do it myself. If I need to drain and refill 5he system, I’ll get it to the shop. While I’m asking questions... I see that the rubber bushings are $8.75, aftermarket poly bushings are $3, or aftermarket rubber for $1.50. Any feedback on poly vs rubber, or OEM vs aftermarket? Many thanks in advance... Last edited by Hendo; 11-22-2018 at 02:46 PM. 
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#2
11-22-2018, 03:14 PM
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You won't have to disconnect the pump from the system. I used poly bushings but rubber may be better for absorbing the stresses that cause the cracks. Check V8Volvos tightening sequence in a previous post when you reinstall.
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#3
12-30-2018, 02:02 PM
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One of the advantages to the poly bushings is that they are not susceptible to damage from oil contamination. Pretty common for the PS pump to seep a little fluid over time which makes its way down to the rubber bushings and softens/degrades them.
You can rebuild the new bracket with fresh bushings (poly or rubber, whichever you choose) on the workbench then swap it on as GV said.
__________________
86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k
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#4
01-05-2019, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
I got lucky and sourced a new-old-stock Volvo bracket from eBay ($95) and some OEM bushings. Then had a local Indie shop do the work. The bracket had fractured just below the top two bolts (that go into the head) and above the third bolt. That third bolt had broken off at the threads; the top was missing and the threads were left. The smaller bolt at the bottom of the bracket (the "ear") was found very loose -- backed off several turns. But the "ear" was not broken. I'm not sure what to make of the broken/loose bolts. Is the fractured bracket worth keeping for potential weld repair if needed at a future date? I'll try to upload some pix. Thanks again to all that replied. -Tom in SoCal
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#5
01-06-2019, 11:08 AM
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If you can find a good aluminum welder, get it welded and keep it as a spare. Looks like a clean break and should be easy to keep it aligned while welding.
Loose/missing bolts? Maybe they were not torqued down sufficiently? These engines do vibrate profusely.I recently did troubleshoot an annoying rattle off idle that turned out to be more than a few missing/loose bolts for the A/C compressor and at its bracketry interconnections.
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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#6
01-06-2019, 02:12 PM
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Looks like the bracket was torqued down without the spacers. If they are lost you could probably improvise some from the hardware store by stacking washers to get the correct height or pretty close.
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#7
01-07-2019, 10:33 AM
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Ooohh, that's right. I hadn't thought of the front engine lifting hook as a spacer but it does act as a spacer, doesn't it?
However, I had one that broke in that area even with the lifting hook/spacer in place.
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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#8
01-07-2019, 01:06 PM
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The lifting hook bracket (or if the lifting hook bracket has been removed, spacers) is 4mm thick.
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#9
01-08-2019, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
The timing belt and water pump were replaced about 2000 miles ago by an indie Volvo shop. Other than that, Or a prior TB replacement many years ago, I don’t know why that bracket would have been off. No matter, really. It is properly repaired now and I hope I won’t need to repair the broken one any time soon. Thanks to all that replied. -Tom in So Cal
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