injection pump leak

[jpliddy]

well folks this is the 1st leak ive had on my injection pump in 20 years of ownership ,
the leak is at the back end just behind the round disc with 4 allen ket screws
theres a 10mm nut which the accelerator plate turns on diesel is coming up through the nut area and seeping down both sides of the injection pump
sorry about the detailed names of the parts im not familiar at the moment .
question is can it be fixed easy i have pinched the nut up a bit is this wrong the
accelerator cable plate still moves freely .
just hope someone can help
regards jim

[ngoma]

Sorry your description doesn't ring a bell.

The top cover? But it has more than 4 allen head screws. Side cover maybe? Which side?

The accelerator runs down thru the top cover, a common place for a leak, there. Small o-ring seal.

In the meantime, PROTECT THE HEATER HOSES RUNNING UNDERNEATH THE IP FROM DRIPPING FUEL.

Otherwise the fuel will deteriorate the hoses and leave you with the high probability they will blow at a sooner than expected inopportune time. Instant overheat!

Priority number one.

[jpliddy]

hi all , sorry for confusion !
i took car to a diesel engineers today . the leak appears to be in the throttle shaft they said . they want to fit new seal .new bush and new throttle shaft ,
so i said yes booked in for a week today . leak was bad first drive this morning but not as bad when i had been driving . won't be going far for a week now .

[ngoma]

The throttle shaft seal is one of the common leaks I mentioned above (using your term "accelerator"). Almost always a new o-ring seal fixes it. Have never seen where it needed a new bushing, although is is possible if the throttle shaft has excessive play (slop). For it to need a new throttle shaft indicates that it must have been leaking a very long time.

If it's a good shop and technician, the reseal can be done with the IP still in place.

Wouldn't hurt the remind the tech to matchmark the throttle lever to the throttle shaft before he removes the lever, and:

PROTECT THE HEATER HOSES RUNNING UNDERNEATH THE IP FROM DRIPPING FUEL.

Here is a photo of the throttle shaft and its o-ring seal: (Thanks to
Tom Bryant, Wiscasset, Maine https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/)

from
https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...-pump-re-seal/

About 2/3 down, where he says: "Install a new o-ring on the “throttle” shaft:"

Here is another photo of it, getting ready to be installed into the top cover:




Fair warning: Often, the first IP leak to emerge is an early signal that others are on their way...

[jpliddy]

thanks for your advice , the people who are fixing my pump leak are just diesel engineered so they should be good . your advice is very good but i cant say too much on how to do the job ,they will have done this repair before many times i think over the years . some one said its critical that the new shaft goes back in the correct position as it effects the running and starting of the car .
i have studied some of the photos on tom bryants web site and seen the shaft
with the tiny notches around it and 3 on the washer or bush as it enters the injection pump .

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

...some one said its critical that the new shaft goes back in the correct position as it effects the running and starting of the car...

Good that is good indication that they are on top of it.

[jpliddy]

hi all
well took my D24 to diesel eningeers yesterday . they fitted new THROTTLE SHAFT and bush and seal .
well went for a drive this morning and diesel leak is worse than before so im feeling down at the moment .
car started but a lot more smoke the cold start chock cable stop was not in the same position as its should be 10mm cable showing other side of the stop which travels in when engine is warm . so think that needs adjustment too .
also i see a lot air bubbles traveling up the clear plastic tube from the fuel filter
back to the top of the pump ,
do i have big problems with the car now ?
all comments appreciated .regards jim

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

do i have big problems with the car now ?

No. Don't worry too much, it is all easy enough to solve and the car will be back to top form in the end, assuming the work is done successfully.

This is something that happens with age to all engines, simply due to the typical degradation effects of time on rubber material. It is expected and completely normal to have to renew these seals sooner or later. Most of us on here have experienced it, and once you get it handled, everything will be as good as new.

But it does sound like you are in need of a complete reseal of the injection pump at this point, rather than trying to patch leaks here and there.

You're right to be cautious about the process of getting the injection pump timing right when removing and reinstalling the pump, which will be required to fully reseal it. (Most of the seals can be done with it mounted on the engine, but not all.) However, the timing procedure is not rocket science and is a standard part of the timing belt replacement process as well. It's certainly good to be careful and smart about it, but not so much that you need to fear it or try to avoid it in a case like this where it is simply necessary. The trick is just getting the right person to do it, one who has the ability, equipment, information, and intention to do it right.

Who has done your timing belt replacements for you in the past? If you have a capable mechanic who handles those (and has the correct tools and has proven their ability to do the job successfully), then your best option will be to bring the car to them for this work. They can remove the IP, and then you can take it to a certified Bosch rebuilder, or send to Tom Bryant here in the US, or Diesel Bob in the UK or whomever you choose to reseal the pump and bench-calibrate it. Then your qualified mechanic can reinstall the renewed pump and get it timed correctly for you.

Finally, as ngoma mentioned in your other thread, you should be very careful to ensure that the heater hoses that run underneath the injection pump do not get damaged as a result of coming into contact with diesel fuel from the leaking pump, OR from the process of making repairs on it. Even small quantities of fuel will ruin the hoses if there is prolonged contact. That WILL lead to the hoses rupturing, which will quickly overheat and damage the engine.

If you are in any doubt about this, we can help you with replacing those hoses after you get the fuel leaks fixed. There are ways you can improve the routing of the hoses so that they avoid the possibility of fuel contact in the future.

[v8volvo]

Here may be another option: could you transport the entire vehicle to Diesel Bob, located near Manchester, if that is not too far from you? http://dieselbob.co.uk/index.aspx

They are well known around the world, even here in the US, as especially good experts in diesel injection pump overhaul -- and they also appear to offer full vehicle service if you can get the vehicle to them.

No doubt they would be able to successfully handle the resealing/rebuilding of the injection pump AND also the work of removing it and properly reinstalling it on the car, removing any question marks for you.

[jpliddy]

THANKS FOR ADVICE V8VOLVO i will see what the outcome of the discussion
with the garage on monday . tom bryant very helpful chap suggested i did the job myself . if i had seen and helped someone do the job i may have attempted it , but i feel the job is out of my scope as ive never done work on the pump other than change the cold start device , so will hope i get it sorted out soon ,
think i found the problem with air bubbles traveling up the clear pipe from the fuel filter , i fitted a genuine vw mann filter today and the air bubbles have stopped the filter i took off was given to me brand new .but i saw today it did not have the second rubber O ring around the screw on thread it had only been on 6 months ,
so lets hope we make progress next week
thanks again