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Old 04-25-2023, 11:25 AM
245d6 245d6 is offline
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Default N/A D24 loses power nearing max revs, brown black grey smoke

So I have this 245 D6, 300.000 km's, 1983, which runs quite well (i suppose, only used to air-cooled gasoline engines so I try not to worry to much about some ticking, valve noises etc.). It starts okay, seems like it has one bad glow plug. It starts immediately but makes a bit of a noise for the first 10 seconds and smokes a bit for about 30 seconds. But this isn't my biggest concern, something quite simple to fix it seems.

The biggest issue is that it won't go over 110 km/h, especially when giving it full throttle it eventually goes slower, starts to smoke brown/grey/black. If i let go of the gas it gets better and eventually i can get it a bit above 110 on the counter. Up until 100 no issues at all.

Some background:

Car had been sitting since 1999 (from the papers I got, never spoke the old owner). No idea about maintenance, but when I got it it was hard starting, lots of white smoke for the first 2 minutes.

Changed the timing belt and IP belt ''according to procedures'': Built my own tools for the pulleys and found a cheap euro VW diesel tool set that contained the little tool for the camshaft position, dial indicator & locking pin for the IP gear. One difference with the ''real'' volvo tools: putting a .2mm feeler guage between surface didn't really do anything, still bit of play on the locking tool. However it became much better, easier to start, less smoke and less noise. I don't remember exactly what I set the pump to, but I think .85mm.

After welding the car back together, redoing the suspension and brakes i finally managed to get it through the technical check in order to get it road legal again and was able to really drive it for the first time.

Some things I noticed:

Fuel pump seems to make a bit of a zooming? noise when idling, goes away when i touch the throttle a tiny bit (don't know if this is problematic, maybe belt is a bit too tight?) Sounds like a bearing with a tight belt, but I thought i read that the pump doesn't have any roller bearings.

Spews quite a bit of vapour / oil from the crankcase breather, so much that the entire intake is full of black ''grease''. This was already when I got the car, and I still need to remove the intake and clean everything. Planning on rerouting the crankcase breather into a catch can. In the first 500km's the dipstick went from full to reading 3/4, when I take of the breather tube I think i know where the oil is going... I don't really mind at the moment, maybe pull the engine out next year and rebuild it but for now I would like to just drive it for a bit.

injector at the rear of the engine is a bit sweaty, was leaking last week but magically solved itself, now the 3rd injector has started leaking. Not too bad, no diesel under the car but they're wet. Is on my list to fix.

No clue if the cold start device is working, it was disconnected when I got. I suppose it is in ''warm'' mode but have no clue on how to check, could be a reason for my issues maybe.. Car always starts, even with bad battery and -10 celcius weather (despite some smoke at those temperatures)

When replacing the brake lines I noticed the fuels lines under the car are quite corroded, didn't replace yet but maybe this is part of the problem i'm having.

Bit of a ticking noise sometimes, sounds like valves which I still need to adjust, is on my list and I don't think it has anything to do with my problems. Old engines make a bit more noise (what i've learned)

Here is a youtube link to a short video of the issue:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WCDEUbljOyk

Too bad my friend decided to film me rather than the disgusting stuff coming out of the exhaust of my car but i think you can make out the noise it starts to make as it revs up and see at least some of the smoke coming out of my leaking exhaust. I didn't want to unnecessarily rev it to redline again.

So the problem is not a ''power'' problem i suppose, it does the same thing in neutral when revved to max, same thing in 1st, same in 2nd (pulls to 60 km/h, then slows down to 50 km/h as it starts to smoke), 3rd and eventually 4th (it's 4-speed with OD but OD isn't working yet, problem for later).

Trying to come up with a plan at the moment:

1. Replace fuel line from hard line to pump with a clear line to see if there is air in the system. I'm not sure if this is the issue as it smokes black / brown / blue but figured I might check as it's easy.

2. Clean air intake, reroute crankcase vent tube into catch can. My theory: As car starts to rev up, more pressure builds up, more oil gets thrown out in to the intake system which is then introduced into the combustion chambers, making the engine run ''rich'' on diesel / oil / air mixture?

So far no runaway situation so can't be too much, but maybe this could be the problem?

3. Recheck pump timing, maybe i screwed up somewhere and it's off, resulting in too much fuel at max revs? Don't know if this could lead to the engine bogging down and losing some power.

To be honest, I don't mind not driving over 100 km/h / 60mph, but would prefer the engine to be as ''healthy'' as possible, considering its age and me having no idea about how it has ever been maintained. Also no idea about d24's, maybe 100km/h is it's top speed with only 4 gears? It is slow..

Last edited by 245d6; 04-25-2023 at 11:28 AM. Reason: forgot detail
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Old 04-26-2023, 12:40 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
It starts immediately but makes a bit of a noise for the first 10 seconds and smokes a bit for about 30 seconds.
Startup noise and smoke is normal. Immediate start is fabulous!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
The biggest issue is that it won't go over 110 km/h, especially when giving it full throttle it eventually goes slower, starts to smoke brown/grey/black. If i let go of the gas it gets better and eventually i can get it a bit above 110 on the counter. Up until 100 no issues at all.
Very common symptom of clogged fuel filter. What is its history?

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Sounds like a bearing with a tight belt, but I thought i read that the pump doesn't have any roller bearings.
IP has a bushing at the mainshaft pulley end. It will wear oblong and cause leaks if it is run with the belt too tight. At rest, you should be able to twist the belt easily 45-90 deg. with your thumb and finger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Spews quite a bit of vapour / oil from the crankcase breather, so much that the entire intake is full of black ''grease''. This was already when I got the car, and I still need to remove the intake and clean everything. Planning on rerouting the crankcase breather into a catch can. In the first 500km's the dipstick went from full to reading 3/4, when I take of the breather tube I think i know where the oil is going... I don't really mind at the moment, maybe pull the engine out next year and rebuild it but for now I would like to just drive it for a bit.
Could be a sign the rings are not sealing, a good possibility after sitting for >20 years. At least the oil control rings. If it starts easily, equally when cold, warm, and hot, the compression is probably good. Would be interesting to do a compression check if possible.

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
injector at the rear of the engine is a bit sweaty, was leaking last week but magically solved itself, now the 3rd injector has started leaking. Not too bad, no diesel under the car but they're wet. Is on my list to fix.
Kind of rare for the injectors themselves to leak at the seam unless they have been incorrectly serviced. Look closely at the small diameter spill hoses, and the end plug. They start to weep with age. Sometimes the small niipples on the injectors can leak and need to be carefully tapped in.

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
No clue if the cold start device is working, it was disconnected when I got. I suppose it is in ''warm'' mode but have no clue on how to check, could be a reason for my issues maybe.. Car always starts, even with bad battery and -10 celcius weather (despite some smoke at those temperatures)
Very good sign of engine general health there that it starts well.
With the external cold start cable disconnected, IP internal spring pressure defaults the mechanism to warm setting and keeps it there. Does your IP have the altitude compensator solenoid?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
1. Replace fuel line from hard line to pump with a clear line to see if there is air in the system. I'm not sure if this is the issue as it smokes black / brown / blue but figured I might check as it's easy.
IP should have a clear line (probably yellowed by now) between it and the fuel filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
2. Clean air intake, reroute crankcase vent tube into catch can. My theory: As car starts to rev up, more pressure builds up, more oil gets thrown out in to the intake system which is then introduced into the combustion chambers, making the engine run ''rich'' on diesel / oil / air mixture?

So far no runaway situation so can't be too much, but maybe this could be the problem?
IDI diesel has no rich/lean as known in the gasser world, but excessive crankcase oil or vapor ingestion may be causing a partial runaway condition but doesn't seem to be a problem in your case.

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Spews quite a bit of vapour / oil from the crankcase breather
How are you measuring this? Some blowby is normal. What happens if you unscrew the oil fill cap and just set it over the hole (engine warmed up)? Does it stay there and rattle a bit or does it blow off the valve cover like a geyser?

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
In the first 500km's the dipstick went from full to reading 3/4
Not sure what your measurement describes here. The entire crosshatch pattern section on the dipstick roughly correlates to 1 liter.

I personally dislike oil consumption over 1 liter per 1600Km but I suppose a hard limit would be 1L/1000Km.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
3. Recheck pump timing, maybe i screwed up somewhere and it's off, resulting in too much fuel at max revs? Don't know if this could lead to the engine bogging down and losing some power.
More like fuel starvation (clogged fuel filter or other fuel supply issue) can cause smoke (counterintuitive I know) and power loss at high RPMs.

Overall my first thoughts is that your engine is basically sound. Possible excessive oil consumption. Rings might reseat themselves after some spirited high-load driving. Apparently it has had a history of carbon buildup (as seen in the intake manifold). Diesels like to be worked hard (after warmup) and an Italian tune-up might help burn off any carbon impeding ring sealing.

Been a long time since I've driven a D24 N/A, but seems like it should be able to reach 130-135KMh? Might take a while...
Your transmission does not have OD?
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Old 04-28-2023, 12:43 AM
245d6 245d6 is offline
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Hey Ngoma,

Thanks for the extensive reply.

Filter has been replaced when I got it and drained all of the fuel to replace with new diesel. Last week, when it was finally allowed to be driven on the road, I did run it out of fuel (tank indicator wasn't working yet). Put some new diesel in, started right up again. Maybe this pulled some dirt from the tank into the filter? First time I drove it i was actually able to get it up to 120 km/h...

I'll look at IP belt tomorrow, could be a bit too tight maybe. Is it adjustable without altering the timing? When setting the pump, I thought the position / belt tightness could also alter the IP timing?

Could do an compression test, have all the tools and maybe its good to pull the injectors anyway to replace the seals if they're leaking. But on the other hand, as long as it runs okay i'd rather not know

Regarding injectors: I replaced the fuel return lines with new ones. Looks like 1 injector is leaking at the base where it enters the head, when the engine runs there are some small bubbles coming through. The other one seems to leak at the seal between the body and the injector itself. I'll leave them alone for now as there are no puddles of fuel under the car / on the engine.

Fuel line isn't clear on this car, probably been replaced at some point. I'll replace it again with a clear one and then check to see if there are air bubbles under high revs.

I don't think the car has altitude compensation on the pump, comes from Germany. Will also check this tomorrow.

One other thing: it gets 13,5 km / liter, around 32 mpg, seems quite okay to mee for a 2.4l diesel?

And the oil level: I measured the crosshatch, filled the car up with +- 7 liters (until top of crosshatch). it top cross hatch to bottom is approximately 1 liter, i think it might have consumed 250ml max on 500km's but maybe I need to drive it a bit more. Not too worried about it now. Blowby also doesn't look too bad when I pull the cap off, it stays on there and won't fly up But I think the carbon / oil buildup in the intake comes from the crankcase breather. Also something to clean and maybe reroute the breather for now to eliminate the possible ''running on oil'', even though it's probably not the problem.

Going to fix the cooling system (several sketchy looking hoses) first and then i'll drive it hard for a bit, maybe engine will change a bit


Seems strange that fuel starvation could cause smoke, I was thinking it might not be getting too much air but i'm used to gasoline engines and this is the first diesel i'm working on. Curious to figure out what is causing these issues..

So in theory, more fuel shouldn't be a problem? The only thing that will happen is more smoke, as not all of the fuel will be burned, but the engine won't run worse? The only time a IDI diesel can run worse is when there is not enough fuel injected?

Transmission does have OD, but it's not working (probably something electrical). For now it's fine, i don't mind going slow but will be fixed in the future probably.

Enough to do for the coming weekend, i'll try to update here.
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Old 04-28-2023, 03:27 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Filter has been replaced when I got it and drained all of the fuel to replace with new diesel. Last week, when it was finally allowed to be driven on the road, I did run it out of fuel (tank indicator wasn't working yet). Put some new diesel in, started right up again. Maybe this pulled some dirt from the tank into the filter? First time I drove it i was actually able to get it up to 120 km/h...
How long was the car sitting? Bet there's still a lot of crud in the tank. Might require several filter changes before it clears up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
I'll look at IP belt tomorrow, could be a bit too tight maybe. Is it adjustable without altering the timing? When setting the pump, I thought the position / belt tightness could also alter the IP timing?
Yes you are correct, usually alters IP timing. That's why 1) Adjust belt tension first; 2) Set IP timing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Regarding injectors: I replaced the fuel return lines with new ones. Looks like 1 injector is leaking at the base where it enters the head, when the engine runs there are some small bubbles coming through. The other one seems to leak at the seal between the body and the injector itself. I'll leave them alone for now as there are no puddles of fuel under the car / on the engine.
Have you washed the engine recently? Any residual water in the injector wells will bubble and boil off with a hot engine. As will any fuel spilled in there also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
One other thing: it gets 13,5 km / liter, around 32 mpg, seems quite okay to mee for a 2.4l diesel?
Yes, right in the ballpark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Also something to clean and maybe reroute the breather for now to eliminate the possible ''running on oil'', even though it's probably not the problem.
Doesn't seem like a problem. Why reroute the crankcase breather?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Going to fix the cooling system (several sketchy looking hoses) first and then i'll drive it hard for a bit, maybe engine will change a bit
Another trick for clearing out carbon: with a hot engine, spray water (spray bottle) into the intake as you rev the engine. You will see the brown clouds of smoke diminish after a few minutes of this. Decarbonizes the rings, ring lands, piston crowns, combustion chamber, and sometimes the intake manifold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Seems strange that fuel starvation could cause smoke, I was thinking it might not be getting too much air but i'm used to gasoline engines and this is the first diesel i'm working on. Curious to figure out what is causing these issues..

So in theory, more fuel shouldn't be a problem? The only thing that will happen is more smoke, as not all of the fuel will be burned, but the engine won't run worse? The only time a IDI diesel can run worse is when there is not enough fuel injected?
My experiences with a clogged (or clogging) fuel filter is abrupt loss of power at higher RPMs accompanied with grayish-brownish smoke.

Fuel starvation will cause power loss as will air starvation (ex. clogged air filter). Overfueling can damage the engine with carbon/soot buildup. And especially damaging to the environment.
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2023, 01:32 AM
245d6 245d6 is offline
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Car was parked in 1999, so it has been sitting for more than 20 years.

I checked the belt, it is on the tight side, can just twist is 45 degrees. Going to be fun to retension it and reset the timing..

I think the injector might still be leaking from the return line, even though I replaced them. Will try tapping the connector back in a little bit.

I wanted to reroute the breather into a catch can, to see how much oil it throws out (or consumes).

Yesterday I had some time so before redoing the cooling system I threw in some cleaner and drove around for a bit, trying to do an ''italian tuneup''. Seems like it worked some times, for a little bit. First full throttle it blows some smoke, oil and disgusting stuff, then gets better for a bit until it blows disgusting stuff again after a few minutes. Made a video again:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tzrv3qmuW4

Doesn't really look like too much fuel here, more like oil / water? Maybe it needs a bit more tuning

When checking the cooling system (there are some leaks) I noticed the big lines going to the radiator were quite hard, as if there was quite some pressure on the system. Took of cap and when revving the engine, coolant starts to overflow. Symptom of headgasket going bad?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzketosM9l8

Or just overfilled? Threw in a bottle of cleaner so the level was right at max.

Went on with the fuel system but couldn't find any clear fuel hose at stores nearby, so will order some.

Next plan:

Check fuel system with clear hoses, new fuel filter.

Need to replace some coolant lines, especially the one running from the back of the engine to the firewall has a big tear and the one from the front of the engine to the cold start device. Some others are leaking a bit at the connectons so new clamps for all of them. Can't find any of them for sale anymore, could make them myself with some silicone + copper / steel tubes but would prefer original ones.

More italian tuneup after fixing the cooling system so I don't worry about losing all of it and overheating the engine.

Going to try again this week.
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Old 05-01-2023, 03:58 PM
jbg jbg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Need to replace some coolant lines, especially the one running from the back of the engine to the firewall has a big tear and the one from the front of the engine to the cold start device. Some others are leaking a bit at the connectons so new clamps for all of them. Can't find any of them for sale anymore, could make them myself with some silicone + copper / steel tubes but would prefer original ones.
Hello,

If you're keen on spending more money on better hoses there are silicon replacements available. I think this is the route I plan to go once I get my engine clean of an oil cooler leak. I have seen several Google results but I think these are the two companies mentioned on this board:

https://www.do88.co.uk/product_info....ducts_id=10862

https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/volv...ses-black.html

Which I think might be the same company but different international sites.

Good luck!
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Old 05-02-2023, 11:35 PM
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so i have this 245 d6, 300.000 km's, 1983, which runs quite well (i suppose, only used to air-cooled gasoline engines so i try not to worry to much about some ticking, valve noises etc.). It starts okay, seems like it has one bad glow plug. It starts immediately but makes a bit of a noise for the first 10 seconds and smokes a bit for about 30 seconds. But this isn't my biggest concern, something quite simple to fix it seems.

The biggest issue is that it won't go over 110 km/h, especially when giving it full throttle it eventually goes slower, starts to smoke brown/grey/black. If i let go of the gas it gets better and eventually i can get it a bit above 110 on the counter. Up until 100 no issues at all.

Some background:

Car had been sitting since 1999 (from the papers i got, never spoke the old owner). No idea about maintenance, but when i got it it was hard starting, lots of white smoke for the first 2 minutes.

Changed the timing belt and ip belt ''according to procedures'': Built my own tools for the pulleys and found a cheap euro vw diesel tool set that contained the little tool for the camshaft position, dial indicator & locking pin for the ip gear. One difference with the ''real'' volvo tools: Putting a .2mm feeler guage between surface didn't really do anything, still bit of play on the locking tool. However it became much better, easier to start, less smoke and less noise. I don't remember exactly what i set the pump to, but i think .85mm.

After welding the car back together, redoing the suspension and brakes i finally managed to get it through the technical check in order to get it road legal again and was able to really drive it for the first time.

Some things i noticed:

Fuel pump seems to make a bit of a zooming? Noise when idling, goes away when i touch the throttle a tiny bit (don't know if this is problematic, maybe belt is a bit too tight?) sounds like a bearing with a tight belt, but i thought i read that the pump doesn't have any roller bearings.

Spews quite a bit of vapour / oil from the crankcase breather, so much that the entire intake is full of black ''grease''. This was already when i got the car, and i still need to remove the intake and clean everything. Planning on rerouting the crankcase breather into a catch can. In the first 500km's the dipstick went from full to reading 3/4, when i take of the breather tube i think i know where the oil is going... I don't really mind at the moment, maybe pull the engine out next year and rebuild it but for now i would like to just drive it for a bit.

Injector at the rear of the engine is a bit sweaty, was leaking last week but magically solved itself, now the 3rd injector has started leaking. Not too bad, no diesel under the car but they're wet. Is on my list to fix.

No clue if the cold start device is working, it was disconnected when i got. I suppose it is in ''warm'' mode but have no clue on how to check, could be a reason for my issues maybe.. Car always starts, even with bad battery and -10 celcius weather (despite some smoke at those temperatures)

when replacing the brake lines i noticed the fuels lines under the car are quite corroded, didn't replace yet but maybe this is part of the problem i'm having.

Bit of a ticking noise sometimes, sounds like valves which i still need to adjust, is on my list and i don't think it has anything to do with my problems. Old engines make a bit more noise (what i've learned)

here is a youtube link to a short video of the issue:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wcdeubljoyk

too bad my friend decided to film me rather than the disgusting stuff coming out of the exhaust of my car but i think you can make out the noise it starts to make as it revs up and see at least some of the smoke coming out of my leaking exhaust. I didn't want to unnecessarily rev it to redline again.

So the problem is not a ''power'' problem i suppose, it does the same thing in neutral when revved to max, same thing in 1st, same in 2nd (pulls to 60 km/h, then slows down to 50 km/h as it starts to smoke), 3rd and eventually 4th (it's 4-speed with od but od isn't working yet, problem for later).

Trying to come up with a plan at the moment:

1. Replace fuel line from hard line to pump with a clear line to see if there is air in the system. I'm not sure if this is the issue as it smokes black / brown / blue but figured i might check as it's easy.

2. Clean air intake, reroute crankcase vent tube into catch can. My theory: As car starts to rev up, more pressure builds up, more oil gets thrown out in to the intake system which is then introduced into the combustion chambers, making the engine run ''rich'' on diesel / oil / air mixture?

So far no runaway situation so can't be too much, but maybe this could be the problem?

3. Recheck pump timing, maybe i screwed up somewhere and it's off, resulting in too much fuel at max revs? Don't know if this could lead to the engine bogging down and losing some power.

To be honest, i don't mind not driving over 100 km/h / 60mph, but would prefer the engine to be as ''healthy'' as possible, considering its age and me having no idea about how it has ever been maintained. Also no idea about d24's, maybe 100km/h is it's top speed with only 4 gears? It is slow..
hi 110 klm is quite slow i have never really pushed my car to its limit it will do 85mph but may do more hopefully you can get the car sorted out with the help of these guys here if they cant fix it no one can .
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Old 05-16-2023, 09:57 AM
245d6 245d6 is offline
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Update:

Finally got the engine ''running right''. Now it makes it to 130 km/h in 4th gear, no overdrive. But several new problems came up, most importantly it overheated / boiled it's water (managed to shut engine off immediately only I noticed the temp gauge and steam from the front.) when driving on the highway at full speed / load.

This is what I replaced / noticed before overheating:

Redid the whole cooling system with new radiator hoses (aftermarket available in Europe), silicone parts & copper tubing for the smaller hoses, most of them were leaky / wet. Also flushed coolant system, radiator & put a new thermostat in (87 degrees). Noticed there was a lot of corrosion in the system, not only brown deposits in the hoses but actual flakes of rust coming off all surfaces when I took out the thermostat and other hoses going to the engine. Tried to get everything out with magnet on a stick but I suspect the whole engine is full of it. Might be a cause for the engine to run a bit hot?

Adjusted the valves, most of them were too tight (one didn't even have any play). Also changed the fuel filter for a new one & replaced injector return hoses. I suspect the valves being too tight was the cause for low power at high revs.

After this I went to Germany for a day so took the volvo to do a bit of italian tuneup on the autobahn. First ride was going well, went a bit easy on the car to check if nothing fell apart. Noticed the engine was running 3/4ths of the temp. gauge most of the time and when going full throttle even past it. Kept speeds down but mostly stayed at 3/4ths, sometimes half when going downhill. It burned quite some oil, 1 liter in 500 km's

On the way back I wanted to check out the top speed because it stopped smoking a lot at 110 km/h and went faster than that. Drove the car until gps said 130 while keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Went up a bit but stayed there mostly, checked my mirrors and saw mostly black smoke behind me, checked temp gauge and it was in the red zone and engine started to make a loud ticking noise. Immediatly put engine off, coasted to the side of the highway and let it cool down. It threw out quite some water through the cap but only when I was stopped. No water trail behind the car.

After refilling it (i took 10 liters of water with me just in case), starting it up and waiting a bit I drove it to the nearest parking lot to investigate.

Engine seemed fine, oil wasn't at top mark so refilled again. When starting, glow plug light didn't come on and it needed quite some cranking over to get started. Drove the car home without further problems, no overheating and no loss of coolant. Still, temp meter was a 3/4th.

Do have to admit that for the full journey I filled the car with demineralised water to check for leaks and to try and clean out the rust. Maybe part of the issue? Does coolant cool more than water?

Next day, hard to start the car, needs quite a lot of cranking when cold and smokes more on startup. Pretty loud knocking / ticking noise from somewhere in the engine, sounds like it's coming from the bottom end bearings. But the noise got a lot less after then engine warmed up a bit, still runs the same for the rest. Checked the hoses with a laser, when gauge is in the middle it's +- 90 degrees. When engine is fully hot noise is almost gone / unhearable because of other noise.

Today I checked again, cold starting the car with the noise and then loosening the injector pipes. Sounds like it goes away with injector 6. Could I have cooked an injector by overheating the engine? This is the same one that has been a bit leaky / sweaty since the beginning.

But on the good side, found a second engine nearby, 105k miles and the guy says it was running good. Let's see if its something, maybe fix one while the other is in the car. First going to do some alternative fuel experiments with this one.
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Old 05-16-2023, 11:56 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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actual flakes of rust coming off all surfaces when I took out the thermostat and other hoses going to the engine. Tried to get everything out with magnet on a stick but I suspect the whole engine is full of it. Might be a cause for the engine to run a bit hot?
Especially if the radiator small passages are clogged with it.

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Noticed the engine was running 3/4ths of the temp. gauge most of the time and when going full throttle even past it. Kept speeds down but mostly stayed at 3/4ths, sometimes half when going downhill. It burned quite some oil, 1 liter in 500 km's
Not good to run the engine hot like that. Excessive overheat can also permanently relax piston ring tensions (including oil control rings).

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
On the way back I wanted to check out the top speed because it stopped smoking a lot at 110 km/h and went faster than that. Drove the car until gps said 130 while keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Went up a bit but stayed there mostly, checked my mirrors and saw mostly black smoke behind me, checked temp gauge and it was in the red zone and engine started to make a loud ticking noise. Immediatly put engine off, coasted to the side of the highway and let it cool down. It threw out quite some water through the cap but only when I was stopped. No water trail behind the car.
Usually better not to turn off engine while overheating. Let it run at idle slightly faster until temps come down. Shutting it off when overheated tends to concentrate the heat as there is no longer any coolant circulation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Engine seemed fine, oil wasn't at top mark so refilled again. When starting, glow plug light didn't come on and it needed quite some cranking over to get started. Drove the car home without further problems, no overheating and no loss of coolant. Still, temp meter was a 3/4th.
3/4 on the temp. gauge is overheating!
GP system has a temperature sensor circuit that limits GP energize when the engine is hot (as GP help shouldn't be needed).
Hard starting while hot (no GP) often indicates poor compression.

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Does coolant cool more than water?
No. Water has higher heat transfer capability.

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Originally Posted by 245d6 View Post
Could I have cooked an injector by overheating the engine? This is the same one that has been a bit leaky / sweaty since the beginning.
Cooked injector more likely from a faulty injector heat shield. General engine overheating usually first attacks the headgasket, warps the cylinder head, melts pistons, scores cylinder walls, weakens piston rings, damages bearings.
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1985 744 gle d24t
1985 745 gle d24t
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  #10  
Old 05-17-2023, 01:04 AM
245d6 245d6 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: The Netherlands
Vehicle: 1983 Volvo 245 GL d6
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Oh well, lets swap engine and take this one apart to find out. It did sit for 20 years with only tap water in it so coolant system is probably full with rust.

I have a (new) d24t radiator. Didnt fit with current hoses but will switch them with other engine. Also my mechanical fan has no cowl or air box, would that matter? And thermostat its a 87 degrees one, is that okay.

I notice it heats up REALLY fast under load. Going uphill slowly, it can go from cold to 1/2 temp gauge in a minute or so..

Still strange, i measured temperatures again today, 3/4 of the gauge was 100 degrees, not that hot right? My motorcycle goes up to 120 on hot days without problems, but that is air cooled..
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