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  #61  
Old 07-02-2020, 08:22 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Turbodiesel Thursday

Not much was achieved today in terms of `dieseling`...

Some wood cutting, drilling holes to create a nice and stable battery tray on the engine stand. Then, building up the cooling system and finalizing it so *soon* I`ll be able to safely run the engine for longer than a minute.

I found the children bunkbed ladder perfect for the application to mount the large radiator on the engine stand. It already had the perfect bend, exactly what I wanted to build somehow. It was also the perfect height and width, even had the holes already at the bottom where all I had to do is drill into the stand and use two bolts to secure the thing to it.


Then, the top `tilt` is fixed and stabilized by a stylish solution: a repurposed oem VOLVO alternator belt off the donor car, also the two rusty trusty hooks from the donor car`s battery tray (were holding down the battery by a rubber strap). I simply put them thru a drilled radiator hole and hooked them into the top of the `ladder`. Works like a charm, there was some alignment to do; including the magic of zipties supporting the elephant tusk d24 lower coolant hose.

I added the expansion reservoir with the proper black diesel-cap and tightened all cooling system clamps, all over the entire engine. Must have been some thirty clamps to check (?)!

I found and filled in 1.5gallon of Zerex G05 coolant which is perfect but it isnt the premixed version so tomorrow I`ll have a walk to Rite@id for 2G of distilled water.
Then my cooling system will be topped up, kept under a strict checkup, air bled.

After everything set up, I`ll reconnect the (I think functioning) coldstart device and watch what happens.

The coolant thermostat looks new but they usually do. So I wont trust it. I actually need to remove it... bring it home and put some oil on the stove, start heating it and test the thermostat in it using a digital thermometer. The temperature fluctuates more if water is used so this time it will be oil. The thermostat should open somewhere between 80-87Celsius. It is a good quality Wahler 87 C part, but I think I should test it!

Only then continue to fill up the coolant system and complete the air bleeding process, recheck clamps and watch for leaks (if any).

I need to reconnect the fuel filter and feed fuel through there, also make a nicer fuel `tank` and secure it better than a swinging seltzer bottle.



The pictures will show the two dirtiest parts on this engine. One is the fan clutch (at least I removed and cleaned the rotor), the other oily dirtbox is that P.S. system (ps also stands for power steering, ) ).
I had to add `that ps` on the engine bc on this d24t the same long belt runs on the fan, the ps and the crank pulley.
On my d24t it isnt the case I think. Anyway, so I added it for now but I need to renew the ps, I know. It looks worse than the rest of this d24t. :`))

The Nissens radiator does not have a single fin bent at the front. I like it!



P.S. (another one )
The duct tape on the downpipe is covering holes (!), indicates what kind of rust this poor donor 744 had.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-02-2020 at 08:44 PM.
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  #62  
Old 07-02-2020, 09:46 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
I believe my pump is tilted out as much as possibly it could be in my case, without creating a problematic future injector service (which I had a couple of times, sometimes as a trip roadside ordeal).
Sorry, didn't understand. Future injector service caused by IP position?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Anyone using this AUTOMATIC NISSENS rad in their manual* d24t cars btw?
I'm running a auto radiator in my M46 car and it works great!

Don't put your tstat in oil. Mine got ruined from the oil in the coolant (attacked the rubber parts). Where did you get that idea?
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  #63  
Old 07-02-2020, 10:45 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Well, I meant that a 'not-so-good' IP position can create a future problematic injector service versus a convenient one without curses.


about the radiator: Great to know that the zf donor's new radiator also fits my m46 car. Did you plug the extra two holes?


about thermostat check-ups: ok, I will do tapwater then. I saw oil in a saucepan in the vW Quantum swap thread in post 46 )) the idea originated there

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-03-2020 at 08:31 AM.
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  #64  
Old 07-03-2020, 11:11 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Well, I meant that a 'not-so-good' IP position can create a future problematic injector service versus a convenient one without curses.
Sorry, still not getting it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
about the radiator: Great to know that the zf donor's new radiator also fits my m46 car. Did you plug the extra two holes?
Not plugged, just duct taped over the fittings to keep debris out of there in case I ever repurposed the rad to an automatic car in the future.
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  #65  
Old 07-03-2020, 12:02 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default TGIF of the cooling system.

Oh okay. Looks like duct tape is good for everything. )

Maybe I wasn't clear about this but
by saying problematic injector service i mean the following:
You know that if injection pump and its brackets were taken off the engine (that was my case) then there is a 'wrong way' of positioning the IP at reinstallation. This would "create a future problematic injector service" in case #5 or #6 happens to fail. Not extremely problematic for us bc we are able to reset timing, but generally, taking out an injector is annoying enough already plus it is much harder to do when a pump is secured on the engine in a way that would basically badly restrict your access to those two injectors. To avoid that, I create some extra space for a more convenient (roadside?) injector service:
I tilt my pumps out to the maximum possible.




In the meantime,

The d24t runs well and it is TGIF! = Thanks God It's Filled
No leaks and still runs nicely.

Coldstart device is working too and is now reconnected.

I was excited to fill the cooling system and forgot that I planned to remove&check the thermostat (for opening correctly at around 87Celsius...)

After a quick fill with distilled water-G5 mix, I started it.
Only 8seconds of glowplugs and no cranking at all, it just roared to life. Nice!!

I then ran the engine for about 5minutes: runs smoothly.
Then for 15 minutes, uninterrupted: ran great, smoke also cleared already very well and without much revving.
Only gently ran it for a while and let it warm up respectfully on its own.
It is very hot out today, prob about 87F so that helped speed it up. This d24t is a "newborn baby" that just Re-started its life.
As it started warming up, I was monitoring temps all around the block on both sides of the engine and at every cylinder.

The thermostat opened at the point in time when I measured 89F right above it on the engine below cyl #2 and 79.2 on the head above it near where the year stamp is located.
Prob the water was also 87-89F right? Possibly colder bc it was circulating through a system that hadnt fully warmed through yet.
Later with the Tstat open, the upper hose was real 'hot' about 71-75C on the outside but the lower hose remained relatively 'cold'. Only the top right corner of the rad warmed up (looking at engine from the front).

So it's good news.
And I haven't noticed a single bubble coming up into the coolant expansion reservoir. I'll run it a little longer once I get some diesel home. Currently the fuel is still ATF which smells and it is not so pleasant.

Cheers!
Currently I'm dealing with the shields (of the engine mount and the exhaust manifold).
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-10-2020 at 09:53 PM.
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  #66  
Old 07-03-2020, 06:05 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Ran for over an hour with occasional easy revving

I ran the d24t again for over a whole hour, still on ATF as fuel btw (ugh)


It runs really well, sounds good and it feels strong and stable but time will tell. No hiccups today.


While and after running it that much, I measured the following temperatures:


On the lower part of the engine block it was consistently about 84C and mostly between 75-90 Celsius (at about the height of the pistons).

On the sides of the cylinder head I usually measured 71-75C, highest I can recall was 88 and it was on the manifold side, rear top. On the sides (at center height) of the cyl head i was measuring 72-75C `at` all six `cylinders` and little higher temps at the upper areas on the manifold side, about 78 or max 87-89C at the top, right below the bottom edges of the valve cover where it meets the cyl head.


According to this experiment, I can say that the head has usually ten Celsius degrees lower temps than the engine below.
But I can run it even longer and harder and check again.


(Two of my hose clamps needed a 180degree tightening bc they seeped a little.)


I measured the upper hose temp too (well warmed engine, ran for long!), it was usually at 70-71C and 73C the highest, as checked multiple times. Good.

The lower hose measured 39-40C right below the same measuring spot I chose for the upper hose... where the upper hose bends the 90degree (but on the lower hose).

Radiator driver side top front corner measured 56-59C at the inlet and gradually lower at every inch away towards the passenger side, esp downwards.



Blowby at the oil filler cap is close to nothing and at dipstick (pulled out) it is nearly nonexistent, at `hot` (=fully warmed) engine. Great.


The turbo sounds amazing and spools so well and smoothly. I never had such a clean sounding turbo whistle on my other d24t.
There is very minimal smoke despite ATF being used as fuel.



About other parts.

I removed and discarded the shot ball joints. Removed the brake shields and inspected the outer bearings (one side was bad and the castle nut appeared to be tighter too, IDK). I took apart the front strut assemblies and put away the diesel springs too. I was surprised the strut tube top thread was not totally shot (I loosened it with a pipe wrench, zero issues) After taking out their insides, I reattached the cover nuts to preserve the threads and put the two bottom rings also back inside the tubes. The shocks/struts inside are made by Volvo, looking clean but are bad and no dampening. Labeled as B12684 66008. (is that Dec6th, 1984?) The heavy td engine, the bad roads and the miles&time, totally killed them.

I cleared the crossmember from the ends of the chopped off tie rods and removed the power steering rack hose, to store. I had to take out the huge bolts that secure it to the chassis but they had no heads! They got torched off in PA.
This 85 XM has no cracks or maybe I should look better when it gets cleaned up one day. There`s surface rust around the engine mount pedestal`s base area but nothing major.

From the td rear axle/diff I removed the rear brake parts and the shield, handbrake parts etc... to be continued.

The zf tranny bellhousing got stored away in a box and all bolts, screen etc carefully attached to it in a ziplock bag, the remaining parts of the zf also getting stored away for now. Linkages removed and piping also put away already. I removed the ATF too and duct taped the openings. Fluid looked not too clean and wasn`t super liquid anymore as atf would normally be.

The strut housings had perfect looking labels under the layers of undercoating. I took a pict if somebody cares. IDK what the numbers are for.

I haven`t found yet a label on the rear diff/axle but I`d like to know what it actually is.

According to v8volvo, the zf cars had the 3.91, I think that`s what he said in his reply.
Keeping less stuff from this donor would give me extra space. Parts that are NOT td specific, should immediately go.



QUESTION:


IF, I ever end up doing a swap: gasser car modded to become a td car; will I run into problems because the diesel/turbodiesel shafts are different?
OR, the td shaft will bolt into the gasser`s rear end without the annoying mismatch problems?? I wonder about length, size, diameters etc.


All info is very welcome, maybe and hopefully I dont have to store this rear end and the gasser will provide me with everything I need for the swap and maybe the gasser shaft will be used without a problem? Also the gasser rear end?
Do i need to keep at least the TD car`s shaft parts? The parts that were between the tranny and the rear diff of this td sedan donor car.
Or will my td shaft be not needed at all?

If the TD engine and td ZF tranny combo CAN be used straight into a future gasser wagon WITH reusing the future gasser wagon`s shaft AND rear end, then I`m very happy. And will not need to keep this td sedan donor rear end. maybe not even the donor TD shaft?

This info would be real nice to have and my garage will really appreciate some extra space.

Thanks!

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-03-2020 at 06:52 PM.
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  #67  
Old 07-04-2020, 04:17 PM
mrvos mrvos is offline
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As far as i know from stories - the gasser drivetrain (1983 B23 with carb, 4sp manual + od) and diesel engine are fully compatible, the only difference is in the transmission bellhousing (the starter motor location and bolt pattern), so even the transmission is compatible. Not sure about the gear ratios.

Please note that this is the story from the similar guy who caused my problems in the other topic! Take it with a grain of salt
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  #68  
Old 07-05-2020, 07:49 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Sunday funday

Sunday fun day.

Not only the new cars deserve it... To make life easier and more fun, now the green d24t has a push button start!
And it's Volvo style!

Mounted on the IP bracket and by adding a nut on the bottom of the front bolt of the spool.
I used my 740 Volvo's old overdrive switch (from the M46 shifter). The other switch with ON-OFF is to control the injection pump fuel - basically a shutoff switch.

Yes I know I need a dipstick with the blue top.
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  #69  
Old 07-06-2020, 07:51 AM
smashed54 smashed54 is offline
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I look forward to your entries. I have respect for your work and the way you are sharing it. I will be harvesting a 82 D24 for transplant into my 80 245. This work of yours will help me. Thank you.
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  #70  
Old 07-06-2020, 08:01 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Thank you!

Today I made new threads for the fuel filter top bracket bleeder bolt hole. Do not overtighten these because it is very easy to break the threads. Also easy to redo them.

Then I found a nice exact match blocking rubber cap with clamp, to close off the turbo front when i`m not near the garage (no dirt can enter and no kids dropping stuff in).

Then I took apart the ac fan to see if I could revive it but it seems to be very corroded. Currently soaking in wd40, electrical parts looking good.

Also grabbed the td instrument cluster to see details and compare it to what I have in my other d24t car. Long story... not for here. But I`m glad I kept this td cluster bc it has great parts that I may need one day or use the cluster as is.



Then I connected finally the fuel filter for the motor on the engine stand
and connected all so now it is how it all should be: all fuel entering the IP is filtered. And I`ll use diesel fuel from now on, not ATF.



For my d24t wagon,

I cut the fuel hose in half (the inlet side that gets the fuel from filter to the ip) and I drained some fresh diesel for myself (no driving bc pouring rain and car battery was out).
In the future, I am planning to install a fuel hose T shape connector in there. It will have a drain valve with a shutoff lever so I`ll never have to take fuel cans to the gas station when I need diesel for the spare motor.

Or for when I`m soaking parts.
It is also a good idea to have that T because you could literally run the car from a jar at any moment in time, even for not long. For example, a roadside issue, when you think your tank is clogged, your filter is clogged or both. I`ll put an inline motorcycle filter in my glovebox too and 2 small clamps as emergency kit.

If you suspected that your fuel is contaminated, running from a jar you could really keep driving immediately (ATF bottle in trunk?)
NOTE: In my d24t car, the tank has a low pressure pump from the gasser volvo and that pushes fuel nicely when I turn the ignition into position 2. That`s how I can drain my fuel anytime now into a jar and it is very convenient. Except that you need a battery back from your spare engine, right? LOLLL (in rain)

A hand operated drain&shutoff valve is the next addition.
I`m thinking of something like this:
but it needs to look better, smaller, lightweight, and rated for diesel fuel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-4mm-Bra...-/323244611659


PS. Get yourself a $6 lockable fuel cap for your diesel car before somebody starts filling it up with petrol, a typical gas station effect. Coming back from the restroom you`ll be cursing for a while.

Sorry this was off-topic to the d24t spare engine`s progress.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-06-2020 at 08:35 PM.
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