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  #21  
Old 09-17-2022, 10:41 PM
BogfordGarage BogfordGarage is offline
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Vehicle: 1990 Volvo 940 TD & 1989 Volvo 760 TD
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Do you know what type of shocks are fitted to your rear end? I don't know if you know about the Nivomant self leveling ones? (I'll attach a picture of what they look like) Extremely expensive to replace and no longer available in most cases which is most un-helpful. I still have them on mine but I have replaced them in the past from breakers yards. It is however easy enough to retro fit standard shocks but the springs have to be swapped out as well, due to the Nivomant springs being softer than normal ones. With any luck if yours ever had them the previous owner already saved you the hassle. If you do have Nivos I would put it through the MOT and see what happens the bounce test doesn't really work for them as they work slightly differently to normal shocks.

As for the Turbo I'm not really a turbo expert but I'm sure a couple of the other lads on here would help if you needed it.

Also once you get your green book it'll tell you the pump adjustments so if it doesn't pass emissions in the MOT you can tune it so it will.
My name's Tristan BTW
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  #22  
Old 09-18-2022, 08:10 AM
Jimarilo Jimarilo is offline
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Thanks yet again for the heads up

I haven't taken a wheel off yet to look at anything, but will have a look before the MOT. Yes I will put her through and see what occurs first

A strange thing happened this morning coming home during a leisurely drive Slowed down to turn left at a junction and all of a sudden heard a loud top end tapping, sounded like a camshaft. I immediately pulled in and checked under the bonnet, checked the oil level etc, everything seemed ok. Started it again and revved up the engine a couple of times, still the same. Turned it off and wondered what my options were and decided to see if I could make it home. I started it up again and no noise, which makes me wonder if it had something to do with the vacuum pump and follower. I had to remove it to fit the short dial gauge extension when timing the pump
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  #23  
Old 09-18-2022, 10:05 PM
BogfordGarage BogfordGarage is offline
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Apparently the Vacuum pumps can be responsible for a lot of noise when on their way out on these engines. I doubt you did something wrong. I did read somewhere if you take the diaphragm out and flip it round it can work to stop noise. But if it needs replacing make sure it's an original Pierburg branded one as the aftermarket ones can leak oil. If it happens again try the old solid bar or screwdriver test to narrow down where the noise is coming from.
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  #24  
Old 09-19-2022, 06:48 AM
Jimarilo Jimarilo is offline
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Have taken her out again and been no issues, running very well

I have read a few issues with the pump as well and think it worth changing anyway. It was a central noise which makes me even more convinced it was the V pump

Will look out for a Peirburg cheers !!
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  #25  
Old 09-20-2022, 09:15 AM
Jimarilo Jimarilo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogfordGarage View Post
Do you know what type of shocks are fitted to your rear end? I don't know if you know about the Nivomant self leveling ones? (I'll attach a picture of what they look like) Extremely expensive to replace and no longer available in most cases which is most un-helpful. I still have them on mine but I have replaced them in the past from breakers yards. It is however easy enough to retro fit standard shocks but the springs have to be swapped out as well, due to the Nivomant springs being softer than normal ones. With any luck if yours ever had them the previous owner already saved you the hassle. If you do have Nivos I would put it through the MOT and see what happens the bounce test doesn't really work for them as they work slightly differently to normal shocks.

As for the Turbo I'm not really a turbo expert but I'm sure a couple of the other lads on here would help if you needed it.

Also once you get your green book it'll tell you the pump adjustments so if it doesn't pass emissions in the MOT you can tune it so it will.
My name's Tristan BTW
Hi Tristan, Just had the wheels off for a quick gander pre-mot. Front has original volvo discs and pads. Pads could do with changing, no play in the wheel what so ever. The anti-roll bar linkage bushes are a bit cracked but still very strong, hopefully just an advisory at worst. Looks like possible replacement strut inserts and defiantly springs have been changed.

Rear end, looks very much like your Nivomant shockers are fitted, springs don't look very old either. The brake discs are a little rusty on the inner and out edge as is quite regular with rear discs, particularly if not used hard. If I can get some tomorrow I will change them, if not, will change the pads.

The previous owner was a doctor and had the car from new, every service was at a Volvo garage. Every advisory seems to have been rectified correctly. The brake pipes are original steel pipes.

This car doesn't stop surprising me ;-)
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  #26  
Old 09-20-2022, 10:39 PM
BogfordGarage BogfordGarage is offline
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Sounds like most of it is up together which is great news. I wouldn't worry about the Nivomats (just realised I spelt it wrong in the last post) as they are very good shocks it's just a shame they are so expensive when they go wrong. Hopefully the MOT goes smoothly, let me know how you get on with it. Funnily enough my 940 D24 was also owned by a doctor and although he had it well maintained, he didn't know much about cars
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  #27  
Old 09-21-2022, 12:31 AM
Jimarilo Jimarilo is offline
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I just clicked on your name rather than thread and came up your profile

Aircraft engineer ........I once did a month at Blackbush, pretty much making tea and did a bit of spray painting on spitfires, while I was suspended from my normal job for a month (16yrs old) ;-)

Yes the car does seem very much up together, the bodywork and interior are faultless .......off to get the parts including the disc's have to trundle 80 mile round trip to Inverness to get them today, MOT tomorrow
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  #28  
Old 09-29-2022, 08:47 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimarilo View Post
A strange thing happened this morning coming home during a leisurely drive Slowed down to turn left at a junction and all of a sudden heard a loud top end tapping, sounded like a camshaft. I immediately pulled in and checked under the bonnet, checked the oil level etc, everything seemed ok. Started it again and revved up the engine a couple of times, still the same. Turned it off and wondered what my options were and decided to see if I could make it home. I started it up again and no noise, which makes me wonder if it had something to do with the vacuum pump and follower. I had to remove it to fit the short dial gauge extension when timing the pump
Quote:
Originally Posted by BogfordGarage View Post
Apparently the Vacuum pumps can be responsible for a lot of noise when on their way out on these engines. I doubt you did something wrong. I did read somewhere if you take the diaphragm out and flip it round it can work to stop noise. But if it needs replacing make sure it's an original Pierburg branded one as the aftermarket ones can leak oil. If it happens again try the old solid bar or screwdriver test to narrow down where the noise is coming from.
Yes agreed, very common to see this kind of noise from the vac pump, and it is often intermittent also as you described. I have never been too sure of what exactly goes wrong with them but I think either a check valve sticks or the return spring gets weak... either way it can let a clearance open up between the cam and pushrod resulting in a tapping noise. You can confirm it by running the engine with the vac pump pushrod removed. But it sounds like you are already all figured out on that.
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  #29  
Old 09-29-2022, 09:02 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimarilo View Post
So it took 30 mins to reset the IP and dial in .95. The result was a much quieter engine, no black smoke and is running really sweet, what a joy to drive this car is. Still can't get over how quick it turns round corners and has a brilliant turning circle, when maneuvering or parking

....

The other thing I want to do is fit a turbo repair kit, which are really cheap, here are some item links I was sent for my T3 Garrett
So pleasing to hear this good outcome, very nicely done

Sounds like a timing adjustment was what the doctor ordered. Very typical with these engines to find it has been driving around for years with improperly timed IP, because, as you have seen, the timing procedure is pretty logical once you have a feel for it.... BUT, many professional mechanics do not take the time to comprehend what is going on and thus it is common for timing to be set incorrectly after a cambelt change. This was a frequent occurrence even from Volvo dealers doing work on them back when the cars were new, and unfortunately sabotaged many otherwise good engines. But it's corrected easily enough and they sure do run differently when everything is dialed in as it should be.

As for the turbo -- certainly a refresh is never a bad thing, but, turbochargers are something we find virtually never need attention on this engine. As a rule they pretty much just don't fail except if some external material damages them. So unless you see evidence yours has some kind of issue, or you just want to do it for fun, it may save you a little time and money to skip any efforts on that particular area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimarilo View Post
I might add that timing the pump by adjusting the rear camshaft pulley only is ok for the initial timing. Common sense says that is possible to shift the pulley whilst tightening the 19mm pulley bolt and therefore the finer adjustment can be made at the pump it's self. I mean why else did they bother to making the pump adjustable ;-))
This is a valid point. The method of rotating rear cam sprocket for timing does require some trial and error to get to the desired setting, as it's hard to make fine adjustments. You can hold the pulley pretty secure with the counterhold tool while tightening that bolt, but yes it's all too easy for it to move just enough for it to throw the timing setting off and require another attempt. Many of us still prefer taking a few tries with the cam sprocket rather than fighting with the four IP bolts and the 12 fuel line connections, but, both ways certainly do work, so it's a matter of preference, to each his own.

They made the pump adjustable too because.... it's German! Why only give us one way to do it, when they could create confusion by offering two paths to the same destination? In all honesty though, as you pointed out, each method has its own upsides/downsides so it is sometimes convenient to be able to choose one or the other.

Sounds like a very nice car that is coming together well, kudos on the updates. We never saw the diesel model Volvos past 1986 here in the US so are always envious to hear about the improved 1990s era diesels on your side of the pond.
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