2.0TD into 1987 VW Quantum Syncro Wagon

[Nevadan]

Oil cooler bracket


Bracket with spring keeper.



View from the front



Tubing and hoses from the oil diverter valve. I'm not sure if my thermostat is working correctly and won't know until I get the engine under a load and hot enough to activate the "waxstat". If it doesn't work I'll just modify it so it's always in the open position as v8volvo suggested. I can just physically cover the cooler when it's real cold.

[Nevadan]

Cable routing of a cable off a 1990's Datsun or Nissan.



Custom brackets, circled in red. I sandwiched a piece of a Volvo cable spool to the IP bracket.



Sandwich from the side

[Nevadan]

I got this with the engine, had to chop it down quite a bit to get it to fit in there. I still not to make some deflectors to prevent rainwater from getting in.

[Nevadan]

Because of predrilling the tabs it went back in fairly easy.

[Nevadan]

The most impressive thing is, because of using such oversized wiring on everything I've put in, is how fast the starter turns over and how fast the glow plugs heat up, also the 70amp fan runs perfect and all that wiring stays cool. Despite all the hassle of putting that in it was well worth it.

The engine runs very smooth but I won't know for sure until I get it under a load. It smokes quite a bit when backing off from mid throttle but I'm not concerned about it yet.

I still need to install the waxstat and readjust the timing, I've just had a very hard time getting hot water to flow through the unit. You can see the mess of plumbing I have in place now. I do have a reducing elbow coming which should simplify the routing and get the hot water into the waxstat. I'll put the 1" T in the line from the head much closer to the head.

[v8volvo]

I think that suppressor is probably something intended to protect fragile gasoline fuel injection system electronic control components, not needed on the diesel engine. If it's labeled "W" then I would suspect it is a real W terminal so you are in luck there! You can probably discard the suppressor and just connect your tach to that freed up W terminal.

I wonder if a Jetta TD regular diesel tach would swap into the Quantum dash and be fed by that W terminal. Though as you mentioned the ratio of pulley sizes might not be quite right and through the reading off so you would need to adjust the frequency with a signal converter anyway. At that point, maybe just using one of those Dakota boxes to do it all and hook right up to the stock gas tach might be easiest.

Looking great, will be fun to see the first maiden voyage on the road.

[Nevadan]

I got it on the road yesterday to test the cooling system, engine power, etc. Once all the gunk burned out of it it ran very well. I couldn't go to long since it was running pretty hot, not overheating just hot. I re-plumbed the waxstat supply and will test it again this week. I could hear steam in the system somewhere and have been fiddling with it for a few days. I had to raise the overflow bottle/reservoir about an inch to make sure the coolant level was above the tubes in the radiator. I think all should be well after I do a few Cascade dish detergent flushes to clean out the radiator, there's a lot of rust colored water coming out each time I flush and refill. I know there was quite a bit in the head so want to get it real clean.

The power is similar to the 2.4, very smooth, not like the 1.6 so I'm very impressed with that.

The oil cooler thermostat seems to be working fine, the temperature at the cooler after a wide open throttle run was 197F. The cooling fan seems to be working correctly. I also added a heat-sink for the Audi resistor when the fan is running on low speed and it was an absolutely necessary item.

More updates once I get the cooling system complete.

Still haven't figured out where to connect the W terminal from the alternator to get the tach working but I'll do some interneting to see what's up.