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  #21  
Old 07-09-2020, 06:15 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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This is great progress.
It`s very late there now in Belgrade so I`ll shorten my answer so it reaches you before you sign off.

Good job setting the timing! If I were you, I`d go back and reconfirm the timing at least a few times (spinning the engine multiple times or by driving it for a little while).

When you said, I quote, "higher speeds", there was a sarcastic smile on my face. I know these cars run quite slow and reach top speed damn slowly but we have torque. The person reading this, if you never owned a d24 car, you dont exactly know the feeling of holding steering wheel on top with two hands and waiting for your car to kill the hill before the hill kills the car... we still like our slow d24 Volvos.
Here I`d mention that you should be able to climb hills better, maybe* faster and stronger than what you are describing. But you have a really good start at fixing up all your troubles. It already runs much better and we knew it will.
Maybe consider a brand new fuel filter (best time is now, you need adequate feedback on how it runs and not some partially clogged filter situation), perhaps and air filter too and some really good checkup on the entire fuel system. Get a clear hose for between the filter and the IP too and do use clamps.

The smoke

It is probably not from readjusting (or misadjusting) your timing but from other maybe typical factors, such as
-recent years` driving style was too `slow`
-etc, look for car-smoke causes in `Sticky` of this forum
-and consider having your injectors checked, rebuilt etc or you could do it on your own one day in the future
-your car may start clearing up internally and lose some of the smoking you described having

120kph top speed isn`t super maxxed out, it should be able to do 135-140 maybe but again, there are a ton of factors for that to happen, too... tires including pressure of tires, fuel quality, injectors` condition, road surface types etc, weather, etc and much much more.

No worries about your top speed for now and do not push it much until you set things really well and keep testing car on local roads and shorter trips in town.
I`m not saying you have to fold side mirrors for a higher top speed but certainly you have many things to do before attempting to keep breaking your own topspeed records. I think of thermostat, condition of cooling hoses, injectors, setting fuel quantity right, maybe adjusting the pump linkages if misadjusted by someone, take a look at max rev stopper alignments etc, could use a fuel octane booster (dont overdo it), diesel additive, flush the IP using low pressure pump or vacuum, reseal manifolds and check exhaust etc. Especially bc this car is just a setup experiment vehicle currently. You want it to run as well as possible.
I highly suggest you do only 1 fix at a time so when/if it goes wrong, you know what to reset... and to where it was set. That`s my advice and some will think it is bad advice but it works best for me. Originated here on this forum.

My d24t doesnt have the IP timing hole copper washer either but it doesnt leak at all despite I did not overtighten it. It`s good to have but isn`t a must. Some pumps I opened didn`t have it.

A note. If your cars starts `excellent` when warm, you perhaps have no badly low compression. Do you mean warm as warm weather or warm as warm engine?
If warm engine starts really well or excellent, you prob dont have horrible compression. Do you energize glowplugs manually??

Good job on starting with the IP stuff bc that maybe means the most and contributes the most in how these cars run. By planning to redo the too tight rear belt loosening repair you are protecting the injection pump shaft seal from wearing out too early which can cause developing a fuel leak. I`ve seen a d24 run with that belt installed so tightly that you could hear the grinding.
Do follow torque specs on the cam bolt and the ip bolt as well.

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-09-2020 at 10:37 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-10-2020, 10:29 AM
mrvos mrvos is offline
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Thanks

I will reconfirm the timing, but sounds okay.

The injectors were rebuilt.

I dont see the smoke sticky?

The engine starts great without plugs when its warm (the engine is warm , and also, coincidentally, its warm outside).

Yes, i energise the plugs manually, much easier and better. Everything is manual here, even the solenoid on the pump I have to make new wiring harness because this one is more than horrible (literally no insulation on wires in the harness, only isolated by dirt and oxidation), im thinking of making more manual parts - the starter magnet etc, much cleaner setup imo.

I have the new filters in the trunk, ready also overflow tubes etc, all is going to be new.

Also, can the compression loss be caused by the never adjusted valves?

Are you ready for the compression numbers? From a few months ago - 20, 19, 16, 17, 17, 16. Nice Quite easy to spin the engine too. That happens when you do 450k on the original injectors probably.


My plan now is to mess with the fuel screw, idle and throttle position. But to do the valves first.
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  #23  
Old 07-10-2020, 11:43 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Compression numbers are not relevant unless the valves are set to factory specs. There's 20% difference measured between certain cylinders so that's not good either. 20 vs 16. Consider that whole compr test result useless until you redo it yourself, the right way. You might want to look at the compr again but I wouldn't bother. But the never adjusted valves Must be looked at, as soon as you can. 450k without a valve adjustment is a lot (280,000miles). Postpone doing top speed attempts for now :')

Having new nozzles put into an injector is not a rebuild bc it needs to be properly set too. Ask how they rebuilt it.


The insulation some of our Volvos used is made out of recycled mousepoop mixed with M&M's candy for color, and chrystallized sugar for stiffness to make sure it all breaks apart when you touch it. Suspect it all going biodegradable by now. Simply low quality...plus think of fuel vapor (diesel mist), oil, coolant whatever and engine heat constantly attacking it for decades. The good news is that the diesels literally need just a few wires. If you decide to deal with making a new harness, carefully track and register/draw length, thickness, color and routing of each line. Dave Barton sells harnesses too.
https://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html

PS. Yeah, start with the valves now. FYI, you do not need tools, at all, to CHECK the valve clearances. Only a feeler gauge kit. Cheaply found anywhere and it doesn`t have to be anything special. something like this works well, you can have a 2nd set too to combine values and measure that way. COLD ENGINE! https://www.ebay.com/i/401459937178?...saAmE0EALw_wcB
Order a valve cover gasket too, a 1-piece rubber version from GOETZE. Best available, won`t leak.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-10-2020 at 02:56 PM.
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2020, 07:43 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvos View Post
Im thinking of making a manual cold start device operated from the inside, will post it here if it turns out okay. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?
P1030927.JPG
For a lawnmower.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvos View Post
Starting. No CS device. We know it has very low compression, but even in these warm summer days i have to pull the lever of the CS to start. And use glow plugs for around 10s. I have the fast starter. Starts excellent without glow plugs when warm.
Is the cable still attached to the lever? Was it attached when you "timed" the IP? Also related: Was the altitude compensation solenoid energized when you ran your roadtests? All these will affect your IP timing away from what you think you have.
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  #25  
Old 07-11-2020, 06:49 AM
mrvos mrvos is offline
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These kits are nice, i didn't know anyone made them anymore. My harness isnt that type but it was touched by god knows who and always exposed to water and salt as there is no plastic skidplate (sometimes the car is funny when wet, luckily nothing electrical is critical :') I will make it - i found a cracked original as sa sample.

Great idea for the lawnmower throttle control!



There is no cs device on the pump, it is removed and the cooling lines bypassed. Also, there is no cable.

Also, there is no altitude compensation solenoid as far as i'm aware, only the fuel cut off electro valve. Are you sure i have it?

Also, when i pull the cs lever and then release it, the lever retracts to initial position - but the pump inside doesn't until the engine is moved quite a bit. Is it sticking or is this normal? I dont remember this happening before the "rebuild" of the pump. But wasn't paying much attention to that as i thought that i wont have to deal with it personally

Last edited by mrvos; 07-11-2020 at 06:53 AM.
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  #26  
Old 07-11-2020, 11:10 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Not having that crap skidplate has benefits such as

You will see all kinds of leaks right away

Engine has more efficient cooling
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  #27  
Old 07-11-2020, 01:58 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Engine has more efficient cooling
Are you sure?
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  #28  
Old 07-11-2020, 02:06 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvos View Post
Also, there is no altitude compensation solenoid as far as i'm aware, only the fuel cut off electro valve. Are you sure i have it?
Not sure, would need to see a photo of the viewable side of the IP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvos View Post
Also, when i pull the cs lever and then release it, the lever retracts to initial position - but the pump inside doesn't until the engine is moved quite a bit. Is it sticking or is this normal?
CS lever (and internal mechanism) can be difficult to move unless the IP is rotating, that is normal.
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  #29  
Old 07-11-2020, 02:25 PM
mrvos mrvos is offline
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I'm almost certain its not there. Also, this is an euro car.
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  #30  
Old 07-11-2020, 11:56 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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If it's there we can't see it because it's exactly behind the dipstick and vertical hose in your photo angle!
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