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  #71  
Old 07-06-2020, 09:47 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is online now
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Nice work on all this, fun to see your progress.

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Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
I cleared the crossmember from the ends of the chopped off tie rods and removed the power steering rack hose, to store. I had to take out the huge bolts that secure it to the chassis but they had no heads! They got torched off in PA.
This 85 XM has no cracks or maybe I should look better when it gets cleaned up one day. There`s surface rust around the engine mount pedestal`s base area but nothing major.
That is good news. If there are no cracks starting yet then one option you may have would be to get that crossmember reinforced, rather than searching for one of the later upgraded ones. You could have some gussets welded in to simulate what Volvo added on the later ones. Might give you a setup for a swap, or a spare for your other car if it ever needs it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
IF, I ever end up doing a swap: gasser car modded to become a td car; will I run into problems because the diesel/turbodiesel shafts are different?
OR, the td shaft will bolt into the gasser`s rear end without the annoying mismatch problems?? I wonder about length, size, diameters etc.


All info is very welcome, maybe and hopefully I dont have to store this rear end and the gasser will provide me with everything I need for the swap and maybe the gasser shaft will be used without a problem? Also the gasser rear end?
Do i need to keep at least the TD car`s shaft parts? The parts that were between the tranny and the rear diff of this td sedan donor car.
Or will my td shaft be not needed at all?

If the TD engine and td ZF tranny combo CAN be used straight into a future gasser wagon WITH reusing the future gasser wagon`s shaft AND rear end, then I`m very happy. And will not need to keep this td sedan donor rear end. maybe not even the donor TD shaft?
Gasser rear axle flange will be the same as a diesel one. The only difference between gas and diesel differential is the ratio, and as far as that goes, the gasser ratio may be in fact preferable.

The driveshaft: only the front half is different in the gas vs diesel cars (same distance from the center support bearing to the rear axle flange no matter what engine or trans the car has, so the rear half is theoretically the same for all gas, diesel, automatic, manual, etc). However, it doesn't really make sense to keep only one part of the driveline, for multiple reasons:
- the two pieces are balanced together so you don't want to mix and match with another driveline -- the two halves should be used together, and should be kept in phase
- there are two different styles of driveline, one has the male splines on the rear end and the female splines on the front end, and the other style is opposite. Obviously those two styles are not compatible with each other, even though as a *complete* setup either one will bolt into a car.

Thus if you are thinking seriously about ever doing a gasser swap, I would just keep the entire driveline since you know it will bolt right in and work and you will have no questions about how to combine with gasser parts.
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  #72  
Old 07-06-2020, 10:18 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Thank you so much, as always.

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-06-2020 at 10:27 PM.
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  #73  
Old 07-07-2020, 07:58 PM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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That is an excellent looking engine, very fine work. And based on the way it ran before the cleanup and re-seal, and after, it looks like you got a great engine. It's well worth the effort to have a spare available even if you don't find another vehicle to put it in. And it is very rewarding to see things working correctly when finished.

You had a comment earlier about how dead the forum is, and it's fairly true...there's fewer and fewer of these running engines available and even fewer who understand how to work on them. I use the forum for advice and also as a "blog" or log to refer back to when I can't remember everything I did along the way. You've shown your work in detail and will be able to refer to it in the future.

I think it's interesting you were on a camping trip when you found it; not looking for one but it showed up. Very cool.
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1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #74  
Old 07-08-2020, 10:50 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Wednesday. Wonderful Winter accessory, a faulty coolant cap and thoughts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadan View Post
That is an excellent looking engine, very fine work. And based on the way it ran before the cleanup and re-seal, and after, it looks like you got a great engine. It's well worth the effort to have a spare available even if you don't find another vehicle to put it in. And it is very rewarding to see things working correctly when finished
Thank you! I agree, it feels awesome to finally have a proper, year-match, clean, good running spare. Also, it was really fun to complete the mission of the
"quick" `refurb`.



Today,

Step 1:
I swapped the wrong, 150kPa coolant reservoir cap to the correct 75kPa cap. Also the 150 kPa cap has a damaged valve/valves inside (I think). They looked sunk and were in a tilted position, also loose. If I squeezed one of the thickest hoses, the upper or lower radiator hoses, the coolant level would run up (that`s okay), reach the very top and straight start leaking out despite a tightened cap (that`s not okay)... I could do that (and did) even when engine is dead cold without any pressure&temperature build-up. So I consider that cap toast. It would be very bad to run an otherwise good engine in a car (especially under load) with that bad cap!

Luckily I spotted this while staring at the engine. The other weird thing is that the 150kPa version was also black. How? The 75kPa cap should be the black one and the 150 kPa should be green in color. IDK, i don`t care anymore... but watch out for these! Could possibly ruin an otherwise reliable engine?? Blow or rupture a hose under load?

Step 2:
I managed to find the storage bin where my Made In Canada d24t blockheaters were. This is a very nice plug-in option to get/or keep your coolant warm(-er) and have the car ready in cold weather for a safer coldstart with less engine wear. Good thought from the engineers and it works well! Located on the manifold side of the engine.
Maybe it was not optional but rather basic accessory for the North American and Canadian markets? IDK...
It is 1250Watts so I wouldn`t let it run all night. Not just for safety reasons but also because this thing would spin your electricity meter quite a lot (imagine if used all through a Winter). I wonder whether or not it has a built-in safety shutoff.



Anyways. Facts. Today it was about 80-85F ambient temp here. Engine was `cold` with a full day of sitting. Digital thermometer-gun showed 83-85F on various engine spots (about 28-29C ?).
I plugged it in for 10 minutes and saw 95-97F (35C) at several spots then. After 20minutes I unplugged the heater. Engine areas at height level of pistons (measured on the manifolds` side) esp the head measured 106-110-111F (41-42C) and at some spots 116-117F (46-47C) at cyl head area above the heater. Right around the heater it was even warmer.

These results would be slower in very cold weather but if the heater gave circa 15C increase in temperatures in only 20mins then it`s great. That equals with, for example, -20C to about -5C. Huge difference in how differently most of the older diesels react to those two temps. It`s smart stuff.

Correction/update: the US-specific power cable says 1250Watts on its label (to not exceed) but the actual heater is stamped 400W, 115Volts.

A thought: one could literally install a 2nd one into another available "freezeplug" and this way the "team-working" heaterS would be even more efficient in increasing the coolant temperature. With the doubled up wattage you could run them for only half the time and still have the same results!
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-09-2020 at 09:18 AM. Reason: grammar, added pictures, updated info
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  #75  
Old 07-09-2020, 08:47 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Step 2:
I managed to find the storage bin where my Made In Canada d24t blockheaters were.
That's the same one that was on my 2.0TD! An excellent heater, more robust than the Kats heaters I've been using for several years.

If you want to sell one I will be a willing purchaser.
__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #76  
Old 07-09-2020, 09:02 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Nevadan, I tested and already mailed you a blockheater a few days ago, you just cover the shipping fee then I'm glad. It came to $5.30, plus the mail clerk asked $2 for packaging it up. 9114902307224641231810 (usps)

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-09-2020 at 06:53 PM.
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  #77  
Old 07-09-2020, 07:10 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Nice day

Yesterday I ran the d24t engine for over two hours.

Yes, I took videos.
No, no d24 harm was done during the video. Absolutely no revving on a coldstarted cold diesel engine.

The engine was properly and thoroughly warmed up before I revved it. I also confirmed this by constantly monitoring the temperatures using an infrared thermometer at multiple spots: on the engine, the coolant, the cylinder head etc (before and while and after running it). As I said in my earlier post, a strong electric blockheater was also plugged in, for 20 minutes (before firing it up... the engine ). Outside temps were 85F yesterday AND I ran the engine for well over 30minutes before doing any kind of revving.

Recorded by a cheaper cellphone camera, and YT reduced the quality as well, but vids give a good idea about how it runs now.

The engine starts really well, almost literally without cranking. Once it fires up there`s a little smoke that goes away very soon.
It holds idle and runs stable, on all cylinders, no coughing, no misses, no scary knocking at all. This makes me feel good as the refurb was done well and was worthwhile.

Through all these sessions of running the motor, I haven`t noticed gases ending up traveling with the coolant to the reservoir. That`s awesome, and it sounds healthy. Oil feels really new and clean (it is, I use Mobil-1 TD TRUCK fully synthetic 5W40), coolant is clear.
Never stalled and no leaks of fuel (except seeping at cyl 5 injector where I think someone once overtightened the hard line on top, so I need to redo it or fix it or swap it with my spare set).


*************************VIDEOS from yesterday***************************************** *******

Video 1 of 8
This is the `cold`-start. Engine had been sitting for a full day. Fired up without much need for long cranking. Blockheater was On for 20mins (before the start-up). 10seconds of manually operated glowplugs. Pump not loosing prime overnight.
Running on diesel fuel. Timed to 0.94, the coldstart device is functioning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtmaQo19sAM

Video 2
WARM engine.
It idles high, yes. Adjusted it later.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0XFAnGp-k4

Video 3
Still idling high AND THE REVS APPEAR TO BE STICKY, RPMS HANG FOR A MOMENT WHEN I RELEASE THE THROTTLE. RETURNING TO IDLE IS SMOOTH BUT TOO SLOW. Very annoying and not-so-good news if you think of a runaway situation. I did try choking the engine using a wood block in front of the turbo inlet BUT engine would not get fully choked to a full stop. It may have sucked air where the large cotter-pin is. IDK. Very annoying. Especially the sticky RPMS when I release the throttle. Whatever RPMs I rev it up to, doesnt matter to what RPM, it feels sticking right at that RPM for a moment, before start returning to normal idle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x0qJfFrZUA

Video 4
How it starts when warm. Idle remains high no matter how much I fiddle with linkage. I first thought it was a low idle situ due to linkage. Then it seemed like a high idle situ. Then it sounded like an overfuel issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3__M4tKBY2M

Video 5
Returning to idle is still too sticky and slow. Otherwise it runs great, strong and stable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4FX50cd8rM

Video 6
no more sticking of throttle. No more sticky hanging RPM. Runs better. It was the IP adjusting screw being clogged up, sticky and or stuck.
It all solved later: I turned it quite a lot, first clockwise and then back CCW then CW then again and finally set it to almost where it exactly was but a backed off the fuel a bit, then tightened the nut. By doing this seemingly unwanted and excessive turning of the screw, in both directions and multiple times, it all became unclogged and immediately better. No more sticking.
To my taste, it was turned too much clockwise and that might have been the reason why I originally first adjusted the throttle linkage to `shorter`(when I got it running for the very very first time 3w ago). BC my other d24t has CS device disconnected, back then I didn`t think of that as being the reason. But, it was the coldstart device keeping this d24t idle higher at coldstart, plus this IP screw was turned CW too much. Those two, together, caused it to run much worse than how it runs and sounds now. It runs very well. Sounds better in real life than it does in video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCHH8Wzh1KE


Video 7
Now, With less fears of a malfunctioning IP fuel screw causing a runaway, it`s time to rev the warm engine.
It had been run for over an hour at this point or closer to 2hrs. It is not cold. Temps monitored.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHRj5w3zlg0

Video 8
Boring video but may be useful to some of you. Shows the TEMPERATURES I measured after running the engine for an extended period of time (in Celsius). Not much revving besides what you have seen in the videos. RPMs probably reached 5500-6000 at some point but just for a short moment, really. It appears to be real peppy, well adjusted and joy to hear. Nice strong revs that sound healthy. Didn`t eat motor oil, level later found to be the same as before. No sign of noticable blowby. One of the video shows that, too.
It started running cleaner and cleaner every time. Also, probably now the rings started to feel more `at home`, the freshly painted parts all cured and are now baked; deposits of carbon (if any) burnt away, even if at least just a little bit. I`d be confident using this engine for a nice brick Volvo now. I`m very happy with the results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZArDeRsn--s

I like the results.
Thanks to all who followed my progress! I`m expecting to be updating this thread at a slower rate from now on. Have some bricks to deal with.
For this forum and its members here, for always being there; thank you. It`s awesome to read answers, get advice, receive help, find motivation and also help each other as much as we can. To keep these d24, d24t cars running.

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-09-2020 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Video links added.
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  #78  
Old 10-18-2020, 12:30 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default A little update with new videos

Here`s a little update with 3 fresh videos.
I`m glad how well it runs!
It would have been a tragic waste if recycled...

SOME INFO TO THE NEW VIDEOS:


It is a coldstart after about 2 months of sitting.


-There was no air in the IP and it started up nicely.
-Ambient temp circa 52-55F. Fresh Zerex G05 coolant 50-50 premix, fresh Mobil-1 oil 5w40 fully synthetic Turbodiesel Truck motor oil, new Mann oil filter, new Bosch fuel filter.
-IP is timed to 0.94mm.
-The coldstart waxstat device is functioning and connected. You will hear it `turning off by itself` later in the video.

-The fuel is ATF-DIESEL fuel, mixed about 50/50, so there`s some smoke.
-Cyl 2 injector seeps fuel at the hard fuel line top connection, I`ll address that in the future. Otherwise the green d24t starts and runs nice.

A few months ago it smoked a little but the smoke cleared up well, it now always fires up without a hiccup, first crank, be it dead cold or when warm.

This time I ran it only for a half an hour (a small bottle is my fuel tank), I let it idle in peace and warm up gently, no abuse. The thermostat only opened in the very last few minutes before I stopped the engine.

The white thing on the downpipe is a rag for sidewalk safety, the duct taped areas are holes, proof of very serious rust that the car suffered.

In video #1: very first cranking is recorded after glowplugs manually activated for 9 seconds. (Then never again for any of the following start-ups.)
The engine is stable, sounds good and feels very peppy. The IP is rebuilt/=fully resealed, in great condition and seems very happy. No blow-by either.

Video 1 is the coldstart with working coldstart device, 3mins.
Video 2 is very short, 13sec.
video 3 is very long, about 7 minutes of intermittent running. Cranks&starts on no glowplugs at first, then restarted multiple times and revved a little.

THE ONLY DIRTY PART IS THE OIL PAN, SORRY I never got it cleaned up but everything else was an OCD refurb.
It was a nice sunny day with clear blue skies that we ruined... just a little bit.
Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHbjoEiOEBo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8MP3d6dhDk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W5aAjXFmfY

Last edited by RedArrow; 10-18-2020 at 12:46 AM.
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  #79  
Old 01-05-2021, 06:46 AM
19misha72 19misha72 is offline
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Good afternoon. What gives an electric valve that is ahead of the injection ? This is a rarity on the volvo LT28 there is a different shape.
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