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  #11  
Old 07-25-2014, 09:27 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Thanks for the info, makes it seem straightforward. Hoping the flywheel is in good shape.

The local tool library has a transmission jack that I will use on this project.

(Me) Finding the pilot bearing was easy, thanks to D24/T INA pilot bearing group buy.
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  #12  
Old 08-23-2014, 11:15 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Been working on my clutch R/R, and M46 OD refresh. Got the same kit as Nevadan, couple of differences:

1. PP fit perfectly on the flywheel dowels, but then, the (3) dowels on my flywheel were arranged in an equilateral triangle spacing. Interesting because the other D24 flywheels I have seen had (2) dowels, approx. 60 deg. apart. Wait a minute, those (2) pins are thinner than the (3) dowels; they were not present on my flywheel, actually no holes for them at all. Dan thought they were used for setting the timing at the factory, or factory shops.

2. Throwout bearing from the kit didn't want to install on the release lever, so had to grind off the ledges on the metal clips where it slides into the release lever's elongated hole. It was the correct depth (1-1/4") however, for use with the curved finger PP.

Ended up using the pilot bearing that was in there as it looked to be in good shape, and correct style.

Clutch disc also looked perfect, but replaced it anyway.

No evidence of oil inside the bellhousing.

Machinist said the flywheel was a little warped, maybe that was the cause of the chatter on takeoff? Input shaft splines looked good.
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:52 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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I'm glad it worked out! I don't remember having to grind off anything on the throwout bearing but maybe I did. I also re-used the pilot bearing so it appears those were a very good design.
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1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2014, 11:47 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Buttoned it back up (except for the interior gearshift boots) and test drove it today::::::::::::::::: Smooooooooooooooooooooth clutch action! Much less force required. Engages about halfway thru pedal travel. Such a big difference, actually looking forward to tomorrow's stop&go traffic, LOL.

Also took advantage of the clutch cable while it was loose to grease the barrel end that fits into the clutch pedal. No more squealing wild boar trapped up under the dash, my passengers can stop looking for it.

Hope it lasts. The old pressure plate was stamped "Made in Great Britain."

Hardest part of this job (other than getting the trans/bellhousing lined up and at the correct angle to mate up*-- not easy on an aggressively sloping driveway)(well, you could say gravity was helping us in a way) was getting the square rubber isolator over the ball end of the clutch cable. And then to get the cast iron weight end to sit properly over that.

Also, the flywheel bolt holes have an oddball configuration pattern. Subtly unequal spacing that is hard to perceive. You have to try bolting it in various clocking positions. Not fun when you are having to hold up a heavy piece of metal while trying to bolt it in and having to keep rotating it until all the holes magically line up. The whole time that heavy flywheel is aiming for your chest.

So another success with the Sachs kit referenced earlier in this post. It will work, with the following modifications:
1. Some may need to remove or grind down the extra pins (if present) on the flywheel, or remove material on the PP to accomodate.
2. Some may need to grind down most of the ledge on the two metal contact pieces on the throwout bearing (so it will insert into the rounded square hole in the clutch release lever).
3. ALL will need to source the correct pilot bearing, as needed.
4. ALL will need to modify the alignment tool that comes with the kit. O.D. on the end of it (where it fits into the pilot brg.) needs to be 10mm O.D. I built it up with masking tape. Try to make it smooth so it will sit square, and also so no lumps or ridges might catch on the needle rollers and dislodge or pull them out.

Recommend surfacing the flywheel on a surface grinder instead of a lathe. Need to remove equal amount of material from the stepped outer (raised) area also. Machinist should also check the other side of the flywheel to make sure it sits flat. $55-60 seems to be the going price here.


*Good tranny jack with lots of angle adjustments is a must here. We were using the one I borrowed from the local tool library-- a Harbor Freight scissors-type that mostly worked OK (much safer than a floor jack) but not quite enough angle adjustment, and its ratchet strap, while seriously heavy duty, was unusable because the ratchet mechanism ended up at the top of the tranny so no way to release it once it was up in place in the transmission tunnel. We used a separate ratchet strap I had that worked fine, except for when it came time to raise the jack to get the tranny into position. I was manning the jack. When I heard "OK, time to raise the transmission!" I started cranking. Well I wore myself out in a hurry. Why was it so hard to crank it up all of a sudden??? I changed angles, used the other hand, used both hands, planted a foot on it, etc. Started looking for the cheater pipe. Then realized-- I had attached the ends of the strap to the base of the jack. Plenty stable, but it did impede the jack's ability to raise.
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2014, 11:04 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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The great difference between the new clutch pedal effort and the old infers a major problem with the old pressure plate. Finger ends were ragged and uneven. Not likely caused only by a possible collision with the input shaft during transmission removal because they are raised/depressed in more than one section:
P1010496.jpg

P1010494.jpg

Surface finish is still smooth but there are some discolorations:
P1010499.jpg

Clutch looked great! Barely worn!
P1010500.jpg

P1010501.jpg
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2014, 05:51 PM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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That clutch disk looks like it's in very good condition. Did you put it back in, or put in a new one. I'd definitely keep it as a spare if you didn't put it back in.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2014, 08:40 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yea, right? Momentarily thought about putting the old one back in, but I put in the new one, had it already as part of the kit. Yes, keeping the old one as a spare.

Pleased with the new clutch performance. Smooth engagement, light pedal effort (one toe), does not appear to slip, engagement about halfway thru pedal travel; a winning combination!

Now just have to unlearn the coping habits of dealing with a bad clutch for a year+. It was like I was participating at a rodeo & they kept giving me that bucking bronco the whole time.
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