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  #11  
Old 02-22-2021, 12:54 AM
ukvolvo ukvolvo is offline
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Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Oh BTW, in your second picture, the large rectangular relay very close to the EGR control solenoids is your glow plug relay. The one with "VOLVO" and "80A" and "12V" labeling on it.

Don't disconnect or remove that one, or the engine will no longer start. Only the stuff above it, if you choose to.
The last car i am comparing it to is our v70 d5 so its got alot to live up to haha

I am a petrol man through and through but chose a diesel as its mpg is justified.

If i am honest i really need to test the car and see how she is boosting. It does not feel like the turbo kicks in at times and i suspect its mostly just the power curve that helps it pick up. Like i said testing definitely needed over speculation ey.

Is it worth blanking off the egr also? If so how do i do it.

If it is boosting right could i do anything at all to liven it up without pushing it? My Lovely lady calls it dangerously slow and misses the d5. I feel it's guttless at certain points too. Certainly does not keep up with modern traffic well.

I wanted it to have a bit more oophh as compared to the old 325tds i had it feels wofully slow.

I think with a good suspension set up and bushes it willl be a lovely fun car to drive

Thanks
Again
Mick
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  #12  
Old 02-22-2021, 01:06 AM
ukvolvo ukvolvo is offline
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if this engine does deliver in a way that means it needs alot of revs i may consider long term using electronic boost regulation and a hybrid on standard boost. Our turbo may be very tired and in need of change anyway.


Would the fueling system adapt to this?The boost is measured by the pump if i am correct so hopefully it would.

That been said the standard turbo may be absolutely fine if worked harder I saw a rebuild kit on ebay for £25 yesterday haha no idea how you balance a shaft yourself although I have done jet engine parts so should be able to figure it out

Mick
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  #13  
Old 02-22-2021, 08:08 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Yes if you are comparing to a modern Volvo D5 with common rail direct injection and variable-vane turbo and twin cams and full electronic control, and around DOUBLE the max stock torque output at MUCH lower RPM, it's no surprise this engine may have a different dynamic feel even if it's all working as intended.

Volvo D5 maximum stock torque output: 440nm (325 lb-ft) at 1500 rpm
Volvo D24TIC maximum stock torque output: 250nm (184 lb-ft) at 2400 rpm

They are truly different animals and very much in different worlds in terms of performance and technology.

Turbo failure on a D24T is very rare. As in very, very, very rare. We basically never hear about it here. Most of these engines are running the stock original turbo still after almost 40 years and in some cases a half million miles or more. They pretty much just don't break unless run out of oil or if a failed air cleaner lets a bunch of dirt and sand in. So rebuilding the turbo is probably not the direction you want to be looking just yet.

Much, much more likely that either the engine is running as designed and just isn't on a par with what you are accustomed to, OR, turbo and/or fuel pump need adjustment. "Dangerously slow" and not able to keep up with traffic does sound like something might be off. Here where I live, highway traffic generally moves at 90 mph or more, and the engines in my old Volvos (even the lower tune non-IC D24T we have here) are perfectly happy to do 90-100 in order to stay with other vehicles. The only reason I don't do that is that the rest of the 40-year-old car containing the engine doesn't feel safe at those speeds.

If yours struggles to move with traffic then perhaps you have an issue with turbo output, or more probable, the injection pump timing is incorrect from a sloppily executed timing belt or IP replacement in the past.

Should start with measuring turbo boost as you have planned, and continuing the "Stage 0" maintenance you have already begun, focusing on a full and perfectly executed timing belt service (including water pump and thermostat) and ensuring all the fuel pump and transmission adjustment settings are spot on. Then later once everything is running as intended, you can certainly increase turbo boost and fueling settings above stock, as that can yield good further power increases and your car already having an intercooler is able to take advantage of more fuel and air quite easily. ASSUMING the cooling system is in healthy condition to safely exhaust the added waste heat from increased power.

Another way to check your car's performance: Could you find another antique Volvo turbodiesel to drive and compare yours to? Maybe meet forum member jpliddy and try out his car if he is not too far from you?
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  #14  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:12 AM
ukvolvo ukvolvo is offline
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Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Yes if you are comparing to a modern Volvo D5 with common rail direct injection and variable-vane turbo and twin cams and full electronic control, and around DOUBLE the max stock torque output at MUCH lower RPM, it's no surprise this engine may have a different dynamic feel even if it's all working as intended.

Volvo D5 maximum stock torque output: 440nm (325 lb-ft) at 1500 rpm
Volvo D24TIC maximum stock torque output: 250nm (184 lb-ft) at 2400 rpm

They are truly different animals and very much in different worlds in terms of performance and technology.

Turbo failure on a D24T is very rare. As in very, very, very rare. We basically never hear about it here. Most of these engines are running the stock original turbo still after almost 40 years and in some cases a half million miles or more. They pretty much just don't break unless run out of oil or if a failed air cleaner lets a bunch of dirt and sand in. So rebuilding the turbo is probably not the direction you want to be looking just yet.

Much, much more likely that either the engine is running as designed and just isn't on a par with what you are accustomed to, OR, turbo and/or fuel pump need adjustment. "Dangerously slow" and not able to keep up with traffic does sound like something might be off. Here where I live, highway traffic generally moves at 90 mph or more, and the engines in my old Volvos (even the lower tune non-IC D24T we have here) are perfectly happy to do 90-100 in order to stay with other vehicles. The only reason I don't do that is that the rest of the 40-year-old car containing the engine doesn't feel safe at those speeds.

If yours struggles to move with traffic then perhaps you have an issue with turbo output, or more probable, the injection pump timing is incorrect from a sloppily executed timing belt or IP replacement in the past.

Should start with measuring turbo boost as you have planned, and continuing the "Stage 0" maintenance you have already begun, focusing on a full and perfectly executed timing belt service (including water pump and thermostat) and ensuring all the fuel pump and transmission adjustment settings are spot on. Then later once everything is running as intended, you can certainly increase turbo boost and fueling settings above stock, as that can yield good further power increases and your car already having an intercooler is able to take advantage of more fuel and air quite easily. ASSUMING the cooling system is in healthy condition to safely exhaust the added waste heat from increased power.

Another way to check your car's performance: Could you find another antique Volvo turbodiesel to drive and compare yours to? Maybe meet forum member jpliddy and try out his car if he is not too far from you?

Ours was a 163 d5 so 250ft i thought ? Thats what ours is, soon to be was after clutch wear

And yeah i totally get it is a different drive as all classics are. I will run some tests but i definitely suspect it needs refining. I think a little more low down power and a little more oomph and I'll be happy.I could not imagine it EVER spinning the rear wheels in this current state except in ice haha

I have a cosworth t3 actuator in the workshop, looks similar so i wonder if its worth a swap. It has 13 psi stamped on it a free shaft and working spring mechanism if mine looks tired

Mick

Last edited by ukvolvo; 02-22-2021 at 10:36 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:31 AM
ukvolvo ukvolvo is offline
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And we are in Lockdown still buddy, If i drove a few hours away i would get a ticket haha
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  #16  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:38 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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No I quoted the maximum listed for each engine, not knowing what generation D5 you have. Looks like the 163hp had either 340nm or 420nm depending on year. Still a huge difference and, what's more, coming on 1000rpm earlier and continuing for a long plateau across the rev range, unlike the single (higher) peak of the old engine.

We sadly never saw any D5 engine Volvos or any later diesels at all past 1986 here on these shores, so can only speculate on what one of them must feel like. But we did get many generations of VW/Audi TDI which are of much the same technology, DI, VNT, etc, to guess the probable difference in power delivery.

Your D24TIC should feel reasonably stout though, all that said, and easily driveable in traffic. Serious lack of power is not usually a complaint, except when compared against something with unfair advantages. Let us know what your check of turbo boost output and injection pump timing reveals.
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:40 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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And we are in Lockdown still buddy, If i drove a few hours away i would get a ticket haha
Aha, well we should be that way here as well, but instead the bars and casinos are full, even while the schools are mostly closed down.
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2021, 11:26 AM
ukvolvo ukvolvo is offline
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Aha, well we should be that way here as well, but instead the bars and casinos are full, even while the schools are mostly closed down.

Alot stricter here for longer hauls bud haha ,Risky for sure.

I will have to check the figures i found online as it's about 100 out haha

Either way i am not expecting a modern style. More powerful truck

The d5s actually drive like a petrol too, very long rev range for a diesel. Definitely more my thing coming from petrols.

The d24 appealed to me as its just such a brute of a old skool engine. Ive been offered a 3" exhaust for it. I imagine it would sound absolutely, diabolically ludicrous with one standard downpipe to 3" hahaha

And i shall report back after some tests

Mick
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2021, 12:57 PM
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Is it worth blanking off the egr also? If so how do i do it.
Disconnecting the EGR signal tubing and microswitches will render it inop. I took it a step further and removed the rest of the EGR valving and manifolding and installed blockoff plates for aesthetics and improved access. No noticeable performance difference.
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2021, 01:00 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Originally Posted by ukvolvo View Post
I could not imagine it EVER spinning the rear wheels in this current state except in ice haha
Pretty close, yup. Doesn't quite need ice but it does take a certain skill to break it loose.
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