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Old 03-30-2020, 08:07 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Hi Mario, welcome to the forum.

The method you suggested for dealing with the center crankshaft bolt is pretty risky. The torque on this bolt is high enough that you can strip teeth off the flywheel ring gear or break the end off the chisel inside the bellhousing, requiring removal of the engine or transmission to fish out the parts or replace the flywheel. I have several flywheels and flexplates here with broken teeth from people trying this. Glad it luckily worked out for you, this one time, but it might result in damage the next time or for someone else who tries it. Thus, we try to avoid recommendations like this here if they involve a large factor of luck in order to work and a large risk of serious damage if the luck doesn't come through. Just a word of caution.

It's safer (and much easier!) to use the correct tool for locking the crankshaft or build a similar homemade one. This way all the torque is contained to the balancer and the bolt itself, rather than being transferred through the crankshaft, flywheel teeth, etc and risking damage. The tool is not that hard to find (especially in Europe where you can also find one for a 5-cylinder Audi TD or TDI which are everywhere there and use the a very similar crank pulley setup....). It makes the job easy, you can do it on your own without a helper to hold a chisel, and you know for sure that it will work and you'll get the engine apart and back together and achieve the right torque, without breaking anything.

Here for reference is a tool set on UK Ebay for around $30 that would work just as well as the factory Volvo crank holder tool, with only very minor modification. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-En...0AAOSwBIVdx6lp

The only thing you would have to do to use this is cut a section out of the other side of the ring that fits inside the crank damper recess. Easily done with an angle grinder in about one minute. The only difference between the D24/D24T crank pulley and the 2.5L 5cyl Audi one is that the Audi pulley has one locking lug whereas the D24 type has two, thus the single opening in the Audi tool. Once you do this, you can plug a breaker bar into the square opening and you have your factory type counterhold for just a few bucks and a minute or two of work. Nice for you folks in Europe who can get these easily -- these tool sets are not readily available on our shores here in the US.

See attached images below of how the Audi setup looks for comparison.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot 2020-03-30 at 10.06.46 AM.jpg (5.6 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot 2020-03-30 at 10.06.26 AM.jpg (9.0 KB, 5 views)
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83 764 D24T/M46 155k
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