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  #1  
Old 04-15-2013, 11:05 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Default Motor mounts / engine mounts

Where can I get a passenger side motor mount?

I ordered all three mounts from Rock Auto and only the driver's side mount was correct. Part numbers DEA A2426, A7014 and A2428.

I did get a good looking tranny mount from NAPA.

When I raised the engine to replace the mounts the passenger side mount looked in good condition, better than the other two. It was about 10mm thicker than the "new" DEA mount and it was tapered a little (maybe just from use).

My usual online suppliers don't even list the passenger side mount.

Is there an "easy" way to get this mount off? The driver's side mount was easy because I could just take the main mount off the block. It's difficult, if not impossible to get the mount off the block on the passenger side because the turbo's in the way.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg

Last edited by Nevadan; 04-15-2013 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Added "how to take off passenger side mount"
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2013, 12:09 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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You can usually reuse the pax side mount -- it only gets "pushed" rather than pulled on during normal driving (i.e. when moving forward) plus the heat shield keeps exhaust heat off it pretty well, they rarely seem to need replacement. They are more difficult to find - last time I needed one the only source was Volvo dealer. It should be a little taller than the LH mount, as you described.

Getting to the upper mount pedestal bolts on the pax side mount, if you want to remove it, is tricky but usually access to the nut on the top of the mount is not too bad, and the mount has a little dowel pin so it will not spin when you try to wind the nut off. On that side to unfasten the bottom half, you have to remove the aluminum pedestal that bolts to the crossmember (3 nuts on top, an L-shaped stud plate on bottom right above the RH rack boot), unlike the driver's side which has the lower pedestal welded integral to the crossmember. Last time I got an LH mount from Volvo it was rather spendy so unless you have reason to suspect a problem with yours, IMO just as well to save the hassle and leave it as-is...
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2013, 03:01 PM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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I like your thinking! And your reply answers the question as to why the passenger side mount didn't look bad. It factually looked quite good; not new but near new.

Plus, with the transmission mount replaced the engine is now sitting more forward and not pulling back on the two front mounts.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2013, 12:23 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadan View Post
Plus, with the transmission mount replaced the engine is now sitting more forward and not pulling back on the two front mounts.
Yeah, that tranny mount is an important point too, and not just because it saves wear and tear on the motor mounts when it is healthy... One time a few years ago I ended up with a good running 245 Diesel that was about to be sent to the scrap yard because the owners had been told the trans had given up -- gearbox was popping out of 2nd and 4th gear. Had terrible NVH problems as well -- it was terrible to drive due to these two issues. I looked underneath and saw that the tranny mount had crumbled to pieces, rubber was all gone and the two metal end plates were just sitting against each other. The engine and trans had moved back far enough that the gear lever was hitting the back of the opening in the floor, pushing it out of 2nd and 4th, and the motor sunk down as it moved back so that the oil pan was resting hard against the steering rack! New mount for $10 fixed all the problems.... turned out to be a great car.

FYI, I just bought a new pax side motor mount from Volvo last week -- P/N 1273736, about $49 MSRP at the FLVD. This is first time I have ever had to put one of these in, and it only went bad because whoever last had the motor out of this car forgot to put the heatshield back on that goes above the mount on that side -- heat from the exhaust broke it down. With the shield in place they seem to last more or less indefinitely....
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2013, 06:50 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Default That's why this is a great forum

You guys with more experience on these cars have the "Knowledge" that us newer guys should value. I was going to replace the passenger side mount just because the driver's side and tranny mount were bad. After your earlier response and after I LOOKED at the mount it does appear to be near new. $50+ dollars saved!!!

Where do I donate to the guys operating the forum?

Knowledge has value!!!
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2013, 08:21 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Engine mount, left side

Occasionally I am experiencing some shifting abnormalities (there`s some noise while put into reverse (not while BACKING UP), also it`s hard(er) sometimes to put shifter into 1st position, and once it jumped out of 2nd - on a bump). I decided to inspect the motor mount. (The passenger side is fine as always.) I`m trying to put the picture together. The bad driveshaft support I have probably relates to the problem too. (The tranny mount has been replaced.) I also drove with a non functioning shock for a while.
Here are the pictures.
Ps. I have a soon to be replaced crossmember that developed a few small cracks on both sides. `All things are connected`
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20130919_084509.jpg (96.1 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg 20130919_084525.jpg (95.6 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg 20130919_084651.jpg (93.2 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 20130919_084719.jpg (88.9 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 20130919_084833.jpg (95.8 KB, 25 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 09-19-2013 at 09:00 PM. Reason: Added photos
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  #7  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:28 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yep I'd say needs a new mount there, they don't seem to last long!
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  #8  
Old 09-27-2013, 04:52 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Yeah, that tranny mount is an important point too, and not just because it saves wear and tear on the motor mounts when it is healthy... One time a few years ago I ended up with a good running 245 Diesel that was about to be sent to the scrap yard because the owners had been told the trans had given up -- gearbox was popping out of 2nd and 4th gear. Had terrible NVH problems as well -- it was terrible to drive due to these two issues. I looked underneath and saw that the tranny mount had crumbled to pieces, rubber was all gone and the two metal end plates were just sitting against each other. The engine and trans had moved back far enough that the gear lever was hitting the back of the opening in the floor, pushing it out of 2nd and 4th, and the motor sunk down as it moved back so that the oil pan was resting hard against the steering rack! New mount for $10 fixed all the problems.... turned out to be a great car.
That's actually happening to mine at the moment! Basically a few times I've been driving along at ~50 and it feels like the gearbox was slipping, or like the lockup was jumping in and out (although that shouldn't kick in until 58mph).

Realised it was only happening when I had a lot of weight in the car, and the rear dropped (thanks to rather rubbish Spax springs). My mount isn't crumbled, but it's not good. I'm fairly sure when the back drops the angle of the box is changing too much from the weak mount and the selector is right on the edge between Drive and Neutral. Figured last time it happened if I pull the lever slightly towards "3" it's fine.

I *might* be doing an M90 conversion on mine though, fingers crossed!
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  #9  
Old 09-27-2013, 02:15 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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Mike 'Thelosartof' on turbobricks made a super simple plate awhile back that holds 2 trans mounts side by side. He says it is much more stable, and I beleive it. My shifter would bounce up and down almost 3" if I hit the wrong frequency of bumps(mostly concrete highway), but a fresh junkyard mount seems to have it contained.
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  #10  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:41 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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745 TurboGreasel, are you talking about this one?

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