#11
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We did try switching the 'in' and 'out' banjo bolts as suggested by v8volvo which didn't change the results. Also installed a new fuel filter and double checked the line contained no air bubbles. also wanted to apologize for being intermittent with my responses. The vehicle is about a 15minute drive from my computer. I have my phone but web coverage is spotty and typing away on that little screen is challenging. I am naturally long winded (barely ever have a short answer (I'm Irish, lol)) so you'll be able to tell the difference between my phone replies and computer replies. Either way, I am grateful for all the info and tips shared while getting my volvo up and running. |
#12
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Ok, so we are back at the shop today, addressing this beast...
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I spoke to the diesel guy. He told me that he didn't get as far as timing the pump. It was running but it was running really rough. There WAS NO THROTTLE CONTROL. Because of that he didn't go much further into timing it. Quote:
So I've purchased the above from ebay... but it seems that the shaft is too short?? Seriously could be operator error, lol, but we can't seem to figure it out. I swear we aren't nitwits, I promise. I've printed the greenbook section on timing from k-jet.org and the dial in the pictures appears to have a much longer shaft. How long is yours?? (lol, this is kinda a funny conversation). Quote:
Just spoke to the shop from where I purchased. It was pulled out of a running vehicle about 18-20 months ago (because vehicle was being converted to WVO). It sat for about a year. The shop picked it up, cleaned it with "diesel clean" (??), sat for 6 months, at which time I purchased it. Upon installation, the pump was primed until fuel was flowing through the lines. Quote:
Because of the above suggestions, In and out banjo bolts were double checked and fuel filter was replaced because we recently purchased this wagon and don't know when it was last replaced. Quote:
So this is where we are now; the proper tools, the greenbook "how-to", all amped and ready to go!!! but....the short shaft of the dial? Last edited by CapnSass; 04-23-2014 at 12:41 PM. |
#13
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Seriously speaking, that short extender is the version easily (inexpensively) available nowadays. But IT WILL WORK! Just requires temporarily removing the vacuum pump that now blocks access. HELPFUL NOTES for removing vacuum pump: 1. Loosen lower nut first, to avoid spring pressure from breaking the lower boss. 2. The actuating rod might want to slide out of the head and clatter on the floor. Try not to let it. When removing the actuating rod, mark or otherwise note its orientation-- it has to go back the same way-- same side pointing in towards the engine; that side is wear-matched to the camshaft it rides on. 3. Don't lose the large slim o-ring seal and if necessary hold it in place (groove in cover) for reassembly with a few dabs of grease or vaseline. Quote:
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Greenbook method is good, but can be a little confusing. Here are helpful notes above & beyond, field tested (specifically post #16 in this thread): http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=930&page=2 Print that out and take it to your mechanics as well.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#14
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To add a couple more things onto the good info ngoma provided above:
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Note: before **ANY!!!!!** conclusions are ever to be made about the fundamental condition of an engine or injection pump, in the context of a D24 or other similar motor, camshaft and injection timing ABSOLUTELY **MUST!!!** be confirmed to be correct by OBJECTIVE means (i.e. by the use of tools -- NOT by visual alignment of timing marks or by "timing by ear"). This applies to pump-injected diesel engines as a very basic rule. If someone's telling you that they are condemning the pump on the grounds that the engine ran so badly BEFORE they set the timing that they decided it wasn't worth bothering to even go through the timing procedure.......... then that raises a lot of suspicion about their thought process and their qualification to correctly do the work. Quote:
Normally this isn't a step you have to take when changing an injection pump, but since there are some possible questions now about whether the cam and pump are phased correctly, it should be done. So, in short, you can remove the vacuum pump and then you'll be able to do this and also get the tool into the IP without interference. Quote:
However, right now the first priority, before questioning the pump itself any further, is to make sure it has been installed properly with correct timing. Until that's done, you unfortunately won't be in a position to back up any claims about whether or not the pump is in as-described condition if/when you go back to the shop that sold it to you with complaints about the way it works. Quote:
Here's a deal I'll offer: If you come all the way to having timed the engine exactly perfectly and you determine, beyond all possible doubt, that the problem here is due to pump malfunction and NOT due to incorrect installation, then I have a known good running spare D24 pump that I will be happy to provide for a very low price. However, we have to first do the work to prove 100% that the pump is what's causing the problem! There's a lot of good info here in this thread now, so keep us posted on your next progress and we'll see where we end up. Last edited by v8volvo; 04-28-2014 at 09:56 AM. |
#15
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Mechanic Diagnosis #2
Sooooooooooooo......
The mechanic has been great! He's very willing to utilize this forum, your guys' advice, the links provided, and print outs of the green books. Before he got back under the hood, he spent time reading and getting to know the quirkiness of this engine and the timing details. With all advice followed and thorough troubleshooting, the car still is not running properly. He's absolutely certain the IP is installed and timed correctly. But there still is no trottle control. Does this mean the pump is indeed a junker?? Or could there be another detail not yet addressed because we've been so focused on the timing?? Thanks again for all your help. Please let me know if there are further questions. Laura |
#16
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How long did it sit unused? Is there air int he return line 1 running 2 after parking a bit does it start right up and idle? does it run the same when running from an alternative fuel supply? Idling ahead in gear, is the RPM steady? Usually no throttle response is the throttle shaft on the wrong spline, but that can only happen if the pump is tampered with. |
#17
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It's the $500 pump purchased from Washington that is on the car now. I believe it sat unused for about 18 months. It was cleaned and shelved until sold. I'll take these great(!!!) questions to the mechanic, who's shop is closed for the weekend. Will return with full report early next week. Thank you! |
#18
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Pretty good chance the throttle arm is on the wrong spline if they did any cleaning inside. if so its an easy fix.
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#19
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Would there be any other reason for no throttle control? Ill get with the mechanic today to get the above questions answered. Also, if the pump does turn out to be a junker, do I have any grounds to ask for my money back from the shop? How are these situations normally handled? It was being sold as a pump that came off a running vehicle. If I can get my vehicle to run with it, indicating something wrong with pump, can I return it? Or it is a buyer beware, I'm screwed sorta situation? Thanks guys. |
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