N/A D24 loses power nearing max revs, brown black grey smoke

[245d6]

Alright i'll check again, just printed the workshop manual

Last time i did the timing belt I replaced the crank bolt, is it actually necessary to do so? I remember I bought one of the last ones in stock. The manual also says to replace the flywheel bolts.. Would like to get everything done and back in the car tomorrow rather than waiting for expensive bolts.

[jbg]

Originally Posted by 245d6

Alright i'll check again, just printed the workshop manual

Last time i did the timing belt I replaced the crank bolt, is it actually necessary to do so? I remember I bought one of the last ones in stock. The manual also says to replace the flywheel bolts.. Would like to get everything done and back in the car tomorrow rather than waiting for expensive bolts.

I personally don't think it is necessary to replace the crankshaft bolt (the large 27mm one). Unless of course if it is damaged.

I cannot comment on the flywheel bolts. If they are torque to yield (TTY) bolts that could be a reason to replace them. Good luck!

[245d6]

Since last post I swapped the engines, did a full service including belts and timing of the pump. New engine is (first 100km's) much better I think. No smoke yet, starts easily and sounds healthier. Doesn't overheat and its faster than the old engine (or less slow..)

First thing I noticed is the cold start device, which is actually working on the new engine. Idle speed is high and it takes about 10 minutes of driving to warm up the engine and get the idle revs down, is this normal? I would guess a minute of high idle would also be good, but it takes some time to warm up the coolant for the wax stat to return?

2nd, it's sweating a bit of oil at the headgasket under / near the vacuum pump and behind the injection pump. Not much but noticable, could this be problematic? Rather not pull the head..

3rd is oil pressure, takes a bit longer (5 seconds?) To build up when cold, other engine was a bit faster. Am running 5w40 fully synthetic oil specified for diesels. Before swapping the engines i pulled the pan to replace the leaking gasket & fix a stripped bolt, oil pickup screen was/is clean.

During valve adjustment i threw some extra oil on the cams, overfilling the engine. Maybe am extra liter at max, should I drain or just keep some extra in there (think i read somewhere these engines can use some extra oil).

Valve cover is leaking oil on to intake / exhaust. It did have the one piece rubber gasket but someone used quite some liquid gasket on it before, could this gasket have gone bad? Tried tightening the studs but no luck.

Overall, until now a succesful engine swap

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by 245d6

First thing I noticed is the cold start device, which is actually working on the new engine. Idle speed is high and it takes about 10 minutes of driving to warm up the engine and get the idle revs down, is this normal? I would guess a minute of high idle would also be good, but it takes some time to warm up the coolant for the wax stat to return?

Diesel idling does not heat the engine as much as petrol (gasser) idling. Even so, your waxstat capsule might be getting tired. Maybe the other one is better?

High idle speed is adjusted by moving the ball stud on the throttle arm, not by moving the cable end clamp.

Originally Posted by 245d6

2nd, it's sweating a bit of oil at the headgasket under / near the vacuum pump and behind the injection pump. Not much but noticable, could this be problematic? Rather not pull the head..

Somewhat common, more of a nuisance than a major problem as long as the oil and coolant are not mixing, or coolant leaking into a cylinder.

Originally Posted by 245d6

3rd is oil pressure, takes a bit longer (5 seconds?) To build up when cold, other engine was a bit faster. Am running 5w40 fully synthetic oil specified for diesels. Before swapping the engines i pulled the pan to replace the leaking gasket & fix a stripped bolt, oil pickup screen was/is clean.

Another somewhat common problem, mostly due to the long oil pickup tube. Could also indicate worn oil pump components. Does it happen if the car is parked facing downhill?

Originally Posted by 245d6

During valve adjustment i threw some extra oil on the cams, overfilling the engine. Maybe am extra liter at max, should I drain or just keep some extra in there (think i read somewhere these engines can use some extra oil).

Should be OK.

Originally Posted by 245d6

Valve cover is leaking oil on to intake / exhaust. It did have the one piece rubber gasket but someone used quite some liquid gasket on it before, could this gasket have gone bad? Tried tightening the studs but no luck.

VC studs have unthreaded shoulders. If these are not screwed all the way into the cylinder head, they stand out too far to allow effective sealing as the nuts cannot compress the gasket sufficiently. How old is the gasket? It may have hardened with age? Is the VC bent or deformed?

Originally Posted by 245d6

Overall, until now a succesful engine swap

Good job!

[245d6]

Wax stat wasn't even working on the other engine so I was quite surprised at first start. Only when coolant reaches temperature (80 degrees C) it starts to idle normally, which takes some time driving, about 10 mins. Idling probably much longer but I always try to avoid idling for too long. Is there a way to convert it to a manual cold start device? Sort of like a choke? Or are these wax stats still available somewhere? Otherwise i might try to disconnect it, it's summer now anyway.

I'll leave the head gasket for now then, no big leaks and haven't found oil in my coolant yet.

Regarding oil pressure, car is parked on flat ground, i'll see how it goes coming months. maybe switch to a 10w40 next oil change?

Tried tightening the studs but still leaking, going to try a new gasket as this one is covered with liquid gasket.

[ngoma]

Last I checked, waxstat was getting scarce but still available. Search forum here for P/N.

Mine is also inop and I have thought about converting it to a manual, using a lawnmower throttle control cable like this:

https://discountonlineparts.com/lawn...versal&id=2593

Didn't the early VW Rabbits with the 4-cyl version use something like it?

Cold start lever on the IP is difficult to operate unless the IP internals are rotating.

My engine evidently has good compression and starts reliably without the cold start, even in cold conditions, maybe yours is similar?