D24 Won't Start after Replacing Injection Pump

[DieselScout]

I read all the situations I could find on the forum, and the two outcomes which potentially make sense to me are, "air in the fuel system" and "timing 180 degrees off."

So in those scenarios....
What's the best way to bleed air form the fuel system?
How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

[DieselScout]

Here's a video of the latest attempt: https://youtu.be/5_hqws4lTs4

[ngoma]

First you need to verify there are no dribbles of fuel from the ends of the injector hardlines. Sorry I don't have the time right now to type a detailed list of procedures that may not be needed.

[DieselScout]

Hard lines are secure; no fuel dribbles noticeable.

[RedArrow]

wow, that`s a lot of cranking, a spare starter isn`t a bad idea
i wouldn`t do more than 15seconds at a time, maybe 20, then wait for multiple minutes. that was nearly a full minute of cranking. nice battery!

I hope you`ll soon figure out the issue

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by DieselScout

Hard lines are secure; no fuel dribbles noticeable.

Generally we unsecure one at the injector and watch for the dribbles there. Usually the easiest is #1 injector.

Can you hear/feel the action from the fuel cutoff solenoid?

Are you cranking with WOT?

[DieselScout]

Yes, I can hear the solenoid clicking.

What is "WOT?"

[ngoma]

WOT = Wide Open Throttle. Holding WOT while cranking is an effort to get more fuel thru the system to purge air faster.

What's the best way to bleed air form the fuel system?

It depends on what tools and materials you have available, and your budget.

1.Temporarily plumb a low pressure (3 - 5 PSI) fuel pump upstream of the fuel filter. More PSI than that risks blowing out the IP seals.

2. Plumb a fuel priming bulb (commonly found on boat outboard motor tanks) upstream of the fuel filter. This priming bulb can stay there indefinitely without problem, which can be helpful for future system priming needs, i.e. fuel filter replacement or run out of fuel scenario.

3. Temporarily attach a Mityvac to the IP return hose. Pull vacuum until fuel flows without bubbles.

4. Simply cranking engine. Limit to 10 - 15 second bursts to avoid melting starter. May take several minutes. May not work if IP internal lift pump vanes are stuck, or if IP main shaft seal leaks.

5. Temporarily plug fuel tank breather tube, stuff compressed air hose into tank filler with a rag and inject air into tank to force fuel thru the IP. Probably works better to also disconnect the IP return fuel line and plug the section running back to tank.

6. Tow car in gear around the block. Works, but obviously only works on manual transmissions.

[ngoma]

Glad you got it sorted out.

Somehow we got on the wrong track for a while there, probably from this:

Originally Posted by DieselScout

Hard lines are secure; no fuel dribbles noticeable.

Won't start properly timed or 180 out without fuel.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by DieselScout

?
How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

-from opening up the valve cover and rechecking timing as you confirm tdc on cyl 1

-or removing the vaccuum pump, carefully, and looking at the position of the plunger (under pressure vs not under pressure)

I always prefer the valve cover story. my vaccuum pump gasket is too old but my VC gasket is reusable. (And checking the valves never hurts )