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  #21  
Old 08-25-2020, 04:41 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Good work! Looks like a pressure washer job?
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2020, 05:58 AM
binary___ binary___ is offline
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Nice to see one of the longer noses. My first car was a 1985 240 sedan with that upright grill. They are not that common any more.
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  #23  
Old 08-27-2020, 10:28 PM
19misha72 19misha72 is offline
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Good afternoon. Continue further. Do not remove the gears from the camshaft. Did you measure the compression in the cylinder ?
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2020, 02:03 PM
GWebie23 GWebie23 is offline
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Ok so far, I have done a lot of just cleaning and organizing of the parts. I also rebuilt wiring harness on engine and of course painted lots of bits. Now that it’s out and all cleaned off I found the injection pump leaking at the shaft seal. After manually glowing gps for about 7 seconds 2-3 times it cranks but it dripping quite a bit on the block and flywheel. I’m afraid I’ll have to reseal the pump before it will fire... but she does look good...
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  #25  
Old 08-31-2020, 04:26 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yes as you imagined, a leaking IP input shaft seal can cause a no-start or hard start condition by allowing air intrusion. But your temporary low pressure electric fuel pump should really negate the chance for air intrusion and allow it to start if it's going to.

(Key is low pressure (3-5 PSI) fuel pump. Don't want to blow the rest of the IP seals.)

Place a catch can under the leaking IP.

Let's see, you've tested and have 6 good GPs, the GP system is working as designed, you've poured MMO into the cylinders, checked the valve clearances, verified the IP timing is at least in the ballpark-- Other forumers, help us out: What else are we missing here?

Question for you:
How tight is the IP belt? Should be able to easily twist it 45-90deg using just thumb and finger.

Too tight and it wears the bushing which will cause constant premature seal failures.
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2020, 04:43 PM
GWebie23 GWebie23 is offline
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45-60 degrees flex on the belt, I’m just guessing sitting for so long and not ever having a mid pressure fuel pump and excessive cranking is causing the leak, also maybe the atf ate away at the old crusty seals a bit. I am getting good return on my return line, however when I crack open the injector lines at the injector I’m not getting any squirt... so I’m guessing the injection pump is either bypassing back to tank because I’m over pressure? Or I just blew a few seals in the pump and that’s my main issue.... I think .... After I pull the injection pump I’ll do a compression test on all 6 cylinders.
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  #27  
Old 09-01-2020, 11:17 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWebie23 View Post
... however when I crack open the injector lines at the injector I’m not getting any squirt... so I’m guessing the injection pump is either bypassing back to tank because I’m over pressure? Or I just blew a few seals in the pump and that’s my main issue.... I think .... After I pull the injection pump I’ll do a compression test on all 6 cylinders.
It won't squirt out of the opened injector lines but will pulse out in little driplets while cranking. Are you saying you are getting nothing out of the lines while cranking? If that is the case, it will never start.

Since engine is out of the car, no need to R/R the IP to change the input shaft seal. In fact it's better not to R/R the IP, to avoid changing the timing, and the belt tension. Also, disconnecting/reconnecting all the hardlines is not that pleasant either.
Do youself a favor and get one of these:

58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller
You'll thank me later.
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  #28  
Old 09-02-2020, 07:35 AM
GWebie23 GWebie23 is offline
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Not even a dribble of fuel coming out of the injection lines... Originally when it was in the car and I cracked the fuel lines it was pumping plenty of fuel to soak the injectors... but now that it’s out and I can crank and play with the injector lines and actually stand over the engine... no fuel... where are you guys getting parts... California hates these old cars and I can’t seem to find shit for this thing...
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  #29  
Old 09-02-2020, 10:24 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Now we must turn to why the IP is not outputting the dribbles thru the hardlines while cranking with +12VDC applied to the fuel cutoff solenoid, and throttle held at WOT.

Good you have a low-pressure fuel pump plumbed in before the fuel filter, and are seeing solid (no bubbles) fuel out the IP OUT line. That tells us the IP itself should be purged of air.

If air was introduced previously, the hardlines may still be full of air, and it takes considerable cranking at WOT to clear them. Might take several minutes of 10 sec. cranking sessions (to keep from overheating the starter).

Next thing to check is proper operation of the fuel cutoff solenoid. Applying +12VDC to the solenoid terminal (and engine grounded) should produce a perceptible solid knock that you can hear and feel as it retracts. Same for when de-energizing.

Not so common, but even if the fuel cutoff solenoid appears to be functioning properly, there is a (slim) chance the plunger could be stuck. Then you remove the solenoid, remove the plunger (maintain cleanliness), and replace solenoid. NOTE: Make other plans for shutting off the engine: fully blocking the air intake, or using the manual kill lever if present.

Let us know what you find.
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2020, 02:16 PM
GWebie23 GWebie23 is offline
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Its ALIVE!!!!! It’s Aaaallive!.... fuel shut off solenoid wasn’t getting 12v.... anyway she runs great!!! Thank you guys for all the help, I’m gonna stuff her back in tomorrow!
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