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  #1  
Old 08-26-2021, 12:24 PM
jpliddy jpliddy is offline
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Default injector socket !

hi all i want to remove the 6 injectors from my 940 d24 can you recommend a good quality socket and size you woud go for ?
regards jim
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2021, 09:38 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Important to have extra space inside the socket to clear the injector spill hose barbs.

Diesel Injector Removal Socket and Pick with Instructions

Also important: Orient the wrench handle so you are not pulling the handle in the direction away from the head. The outside edge of the threaded hole is weak with little reinforcing material and can break off. I like to use a T-handle lever as the force is more evenly rotational.
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2021, 10:29 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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In my case this worked really well. I will not use a 'fully closed' socket anymore.
This one lets you clearly see how it gets positioned then you can do a safe job without hurting the two 'nipples' that stick out sideways.
Another problem is with sockets that fit on safely but still arent deep (long) enough on their inside. Those can push the two fuel nipples in AND DOWN into the injector itself.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/die...SABEgKmKfD_BwE

The outside perimeter of the very bottom had to be touched up with a grinder to allow a snug safe fit at certain injectors where the cast of the aluminium cylinder head wasnt "perfect" (too tight between injector and head....an easy quick fix. Just make the walls of the very end a little thinner.

Be safe and do follow ngomas advice about not pulling Or pushing! towards the wrong side.
I own a "parked" d24 engine where the bottom aluminum lip of the cast injector inlet is broken off. Big problem to fix, easy to avoid this kind of tragic outcome.

Give this job plenty of time.
Maybe a full day if never done before.
New seals are mandatory every time an injector comes out. Torque specs are extremely important here. Also you can use a tiny amount of copper grease but ONLY a tiny bit on the thread where the two kind of metal meet: alu cyl head versus injector threads. Tiny amount only and not on anything else in the area. Dont even touch the injectors with dirty hands if possible.
Surgical cleanliness is highly suggested!!!


Be super gently with the fuel hard lines and do just that at all of the twelve spots for their threads. Also, after the job, position all securing clamps exactly how and where they were ((preferrably keep the six pipes attached as a unit, but, often those vibration clamps need to be loosened a little. The more little the better it is bc it would be harder to find correct (past) positions again))

Torque specs are VERY low on the hard lines,
dont overtighten them, not even by a little,
be as careful as you possibly can!!
Only start tightening one when all of the others are already on, fingertight AND they are positioned perfectly without force, bending, or deformation, including checking them all for "wrong angles" at the injector tops which would result in cross threading and could do fatal damage to the pipes (--leaks later or immediately after the job).
A very scary thing each time as these pipes arent commonly available anymore. Take good care of them when removing and when reinstalling.

I hope you have the Greenbook with torque specs. Or let the person who works on the car to read here. Or you could print out comments you like and give it to the mechanic.

Note: you will need a specially angled 17mm tool to loosen the hard lines on the other end where they meet the injection pump. Same story...be very gentle.

At this point it is a great plan to also add new, quality return lines. They dont seal well when removed once, they tend to stretch out internally break at edges when removed. If reinstalled they may leak. I do reuse them though but mine are German and fairly new. I usually make them longer so I have a chance to cut off 1cm at next service instead of installing new lines.
IF you decide to replace the ones on ip as well, be careful about what goes where, dont leave it to the last minute to figure it all out. As I said earlier, dont start this job only two hours before dark or in wet or dusty or windy weather.
Try to cap off all holes as quick as possible. Injectors, nipples esp IP entry points.
No dirt is welcome whatsoever!!! You may even wanna wipe the areas before this job. Could also blow away dirt by air and check the hood insulation for falling dirt. Everything counts.

Note! If having stuck seals under an injector, be cautious. If a tool falls in or if a cheap low quality metal piece breaks off the tip of your chosen 'picker' tool, that would be your new ***horrible nightmare*** as in a bad situation even the head would need to come off.

Be super careful with everything that gets near those holes.
If you decide to cover or plug them for the time being while you work on the engine, be really careful on what you use.
Nothing should be able to get in... no fluids no dirt no broken-off pieces to remain in there or on the threads of injectors or on threads of the cyl head..

Be a little OCD when the engine is Open, it literally will be.

For cars with leaky vaccuum pump, this injector job is a good time to add (or make) a seal for there too. Esp on EU engines with TIC setup )

Long text, I know,
but these came to my mind about your injector service. The forum has specific threads created separately for many of these projects, use the forum search feature to find them if necessary to read about exact details.

If this helps anyone and keeps a d24 on the road then it was worth it.

Last edited by RedArrow; 08-26-2021 at 11:40 PM.
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  #4  
Old 08-27-2021, 11:18 AM
jpliddy jpliddy is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 340
Default injector socket

hi thank you both for your comments , i will make further enquires , seee what the cost is here ,if my friend has got one of the type you have used .
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