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#1
04-30-2018, 11:17 PM
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Yeh, I didn't think any looked particularly bad - only really 11&12 which looks obviously tight. I remember the last time I checked (5 years ago) they were right on the low end of spec. That's also the cylinder with the lowest compression reading.
I've ordered a few shims, so I can hopefully get them up into the higher end of spec. I'll do them cold this time, so it's not a race against time! Only did them hot, because that JX thread said they have to be checked with the engine "stinking hot". Starting not really an issue - for an old bus with 228,000, and is a bit lower compression than she really should be, she starts really well. This was this morning, completely cold engine, 3C outside: https://youtu.be/GcIr7SvQvJ0
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg 
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#2
05-06-2018, 11:44 AM
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That does start very well. Has to be good shape all in all to allow it to do that.
Don't know why they would suggest to do it hot, cool engine is well accepted as the preferable way both for reasons of accuracy and easier/more pleasant work. Many engines only provide a cold spec... I suppose the only reason they gave a warm spec for these was to allow garages to work on them promptly when they came in for service without having to wait overnight. Interested to hear if bumping up the clearance on that one cylinder improves it.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k
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#3
05-06-2018, 08:29 PM
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Perhaps I am not using the best tool choices for removing the valve cover but by the time I would finally be able to get the valve cover off, the engine would be way cooler than operating temp.! And approaching ambient by the time I measured the last few valve clearances!
BTW I use a combination of 1/4" drive 10mm socket + extension + 1/4" drive ratchet and/or pivot-head "breaker bar." I like to do final removal of the nuts with a magnetized socket, since I have managed to lose a few nuts thru the void between the intake manifold and head or elsewhere.  Too bad the magnetic socket (think they call it nutdriver) is not deep enough to use for the whole process. Also it is not thin enough for the very frontmost corner nuts where access is limited by the rear plate of the front belt cover. Has anyone come up with a more efficient method? Sorry for highjacking the thread.  Needless to say, I have only measured valve clearances cold!
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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