What parts to order for cylinder head installation?

[BogfordGarage]

Give this a quick watch. As the green book method is a touch confusing to me. This video really helped me. The guy doing the video is DieselScout on here is I remember correctly. https://youtu.be/T5FbB8n3f8g

[BogfordGarage]

Also for best results between 0.90 and 0.95 on the dial give the best results for running and cold starting in my experience. You can skip the video to where he's settings up the new pump if you don't want to watch the whole thing

[Jimarilo]

Cheers have seen this before .........I wish he would talk a bit slower ;-)

Well I have never come across such and arse of an engine. Obviously I am trying to time the bleeding thing by adjusting the pump due to not having the sprocket tools, which should still work but not for me

The cold start lever seems to be very tight and is difficult to put the spacer back in place, as there is no slack. Will have another go tomorrow and put the IP back to where it was

Had an escort van once and swapped a lucas pump for a bosch and just turned the pump to what sounded good, took it for a drive and that was that

Tomorrow is another day ........

[ngoma]

Please excuse if I am misunderstanding your efforts, but from my viewpoint it sure looks like you are trying to apply common timetested mechaniking methods to time your IP. You appear to be a crack mechanic with many successful exploits under you belt (implementing best practices, etc.) but as you have cleverly realized, certain quirks of the D24 require require nonintuitive methods, seemingly contrary to mechanic best practices.

Yes the D24 with its German (over?)engineering heritage is a different beast.

The easiest method for timing the IP will appear to be counterintuitive to you and there will be multiple reasons to do workarounds and ignore the counterintuitive aspects, in order to conform to "mechaniking best practices" that have served well in the past.

Here are an example:
Mechanic common practice: Lock the IP pulley and rotate the IP to time it.
D24 easy method: Leave the IP where it is and rotate the (loosened) rear camshaft sprocket.

Have you seen this sticky?
https://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1684

Originally Posted by Jimarilo

Have put my own TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley...

Not sure what utility this has but doubt it will be as precise as using the factory mark on the flywheel.

Originally Posted by Jimarilo

If I am going things correctly, it seems to me the belt could be a whole tooth out as I am running out of adjustment at the pump.

So either need to slip the belt off the cam pulley, which I have seen done and gain another tooth or crack the cam pulley nut and do it properly, which would require adapting some tools

Yes get your hands on a sprocket tool (widely available, not expensive, there were some fairly recent links to sources, especially in your neck of the woods), so easy to manipulate it in one hand and tighten the nut with the other, then hand-crank the engine another revolution to TDC, read the dial gauge, see how close you got to your desired setting, repeat as necessary. TIP: possibly because of slack or slop in the system if you overshoot slightly (ex. aim for .95 you will probably end up near .90) it will result close to your desired setting.

I admit it was hard for me to understand the method at first but now can check/reset the timing in maybe an hour start to finish?

Originally Posted by Jimarilo

The cold start lever seems to be very tight and is difficult to put the spacer back in place, as there is no slack. Will have another go tomorrow and put the IP back to where it was

The cold start lever can be near impossible to move unless the IP internals are rotating. (Seems like I wrote about this recently, maybe it wasn't you?)

Many of us have the IP case rotated outward from the marks, as a way to make R/R of the #5 and 6 GPs possible without removing the IP.

So my overall council for you is to overcome your (understandable)(you appear to be a competent mechanic) urge to do things the "old" way (which may have worked well many times before) and try this new method that seems like hokum but when you understand it, appears to be quite elegant in a way.

[BogfordGarage]

Here's a link to the gates holding tool https://m.autodoc.co.uk/gates/7433900 I have no experience using it as I made my own. I'll take a picture when I'm at the garage tomorrow if I remember. As far as the dogleg spanner goes for the pulley nut, I also made my own, but before doing so just used an open one end and slightly offset ring spanner (you know a normal spanner ). Using the ring backwards to undo and do up the nut (hope you can visualize that). I feel at this point we should start a "get jimarlio's engine sorted" thread

[Jimarilo]

ngoma........thanks for your input it is much appreciated. However there is no need for the sarcasm, but if it makes you feel better, fill your boots

I have never stated I am a crack mechanic and I can assure you I am not, but I am not stupid either. I qualified in 1982 starting in 1979 working on Renault so all petrol, no diesel

By 1983 I stared in the building trade and have been there ever since retirement, with a 60th birthday coming up. I have always worked on my own cars and vans some were diesels and have changed many timing belts and chains

The two timing marks on the crankshaft pulley are my indicator in association with TDC on the flywheel and the ip v to acknowledge firing on number one as I had already said

The marks on the pulley are for my reference (so I am not 180 degrees out) and are not meant to be a precise measurement, as this can be found at the flywheel .....

[Jimarilo]

Thanks bog, will be interesting to see your pics now I have a welder ;-)

[Jimarilo]

So, finally the penny has dropped and I have the IP set at .98 and running much sweeter than before, I will drop it to .95 this afternoon to see how that works out Adjusting the IP does not take long once the penny drops ;-)

Tick over is up and feels much cleaner, changing gear and driving at low speed is much easier I did notice a little black smoke whilst parking, nothing worth worrying about, but dropping to .95 may dial that out, will soon see.

The reason for my confusion yesterday was not zeroing the dial gauge at the lowest point.

I might add that timing the pump by adjusting the rear camshaft pulley only is ok for the initial timing. Common sense says that is possible to shift the pulley whilst tightening the 19mm pulley bolt and therefore the finer adjustment can be made at the pump it's self. I mean why else did they bother to making the pump adjustable ;-))

[BogfordGarage]

Ideal! I couldn't quite work out from your description what you did wrong but I had a suspicion it was the zeroing part. Well done for working it out. I had a bit of a job to work it out the first time. The finer adjustment on the pump makes sense but as ngoma pointed out I like others have it set as far clockwise as possible for glow plug removal if necessary. It just means that its a bit of trial and error to get the right timing on just the pulley. (Nothing wrong with a wee bit of black smoke )

[Jimarilo]

Indeed nothing wrong with a bit of black smoke, but it is MOT time next week LOL

So it took 30 mins to reset the IP and dial in .95. The result was a much quieter engine, no black smoke and is running really sweet, what a joy to drive this car is. Still can't get over how quick it turns round corners and has a brilliant turning circle, when maneuvering or parking

The issue I had with the cold start wire has resolved it's self, as the lever wouldn't pull all the way forward, the wire seemed to be stuck inside the housing, but is free now and a doddle to release and reassemble. Is a bit awkward when stuck as the AC canister was in the way.

The rear shocks are now on the list for things to do, not sure if they will pass the MOT, depends how generous the tester is. They are not leaking, but are giving more than a one and a half bounce when being tested.

The other thing I want to do is fit a turbo repair kit, which are really cheap, here are some item links I was sent for my T3 Garrett

Compressor wheel (standard cast and also upgraded billet alloy) - https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...090960014.html

- https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...ET3103PBC.html

Seal Plate - https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...962900013.html

Turbine Shaft - https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...513100003.html

Repair Kit - https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...-Cosworth.html

- https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...t-Bearing.html

Gasket Set - https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...EOT-VOLVO.html

Thanks for your help Bog, I look forward to seeing your pictures when you get time