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  #91  
Old 07-07-2020, 08:26 PM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Remaining items:
Finish the cooling system hose routing.
Secure the radiator.
Verify the fans come on at the correct time/temperature.
Secure the oil cooler and install hoses.

And the one thing I haven't figured out yet: CONNECT THE THROTTLE CABLE. As the engine bay has become more crowded I'm not sure how I'm going to do this. On these 2.0 and 2.4 engines the IP requires the throttle pull form the front and my short cable pulls from the back, from the firewall. I've scavenged a few junkyard cables and pulleys but am not sure how it's going to work. I think I need to find the throttle connection off a 2.4. I'm going to look at my friend's 2.4 tomorrow and see if it will work.

Then....
Install the grill
And see how the gearing works with the diesel instead of the gas.
Can't wait!!


Another unknown is how to get the tachometer to work. The original tach must have been wired to something in the distributor. I don't think there's a "W" terminal on the distributor I took off the Audi 200.
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1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #92  
Old 07-08-2020, 11:18 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Default For the Tach

What alternator do you have?

Could this work?

Add "W" terminal wire to Bosch/Valeo serp-belt TDI alternator

Then this?

Gas Tacho / Revcounter Conversion to Diesel W terminal
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  #93  
Old 07-08-2020, 11:21 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Default Throttle cable

When I was attempting to rebuild throttle spools I came across some different versions of the bracketry that had different clocking for the arm that holds the cables. I'll see if I can post some photos, maybe one could work for you.
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  #94  
Old 07-09-2020, 08:03 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
The alternator is out of a 1992 or 1995 Audi 200, the label is faded but I believe it's a 110 amp unit. I'll take a look at it this weekend and see if there's the winding ends sticking out of the case.

That second link is beyond my current electrical wiring ability! I'm not even sure if the circuit board is in the alternator or instrument cluster.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #95  
Old 07-09-2020, 08:06 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
When I was attempting to rebuild throttle spools I came across some different versions of the bracketry that had different clocking for the arm that holds the cables. I'll see if I can post some photos, maybe one could work for you.
Much appreciated if you can post some photo's. I'm going to look at my friends D24T today and see how the stock setup on that engine is mounted.

I did pull a very long throttle cable off a wrecking yard car, an older Nissan, that I may be able to loop in the engine bay to pull from the front.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #96  
Old 07-09-2020, 08:33 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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I dont mind removing a throttle spool unit from a d24t to take pictures for you if that helps.
Here's a few from some d24 nonturbo engines, the one with the smallest top is a very early version; the other too are nearly identical to each other, only slightly different. LMK if you need measurements.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20200709_122708.jpg (495.4 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg 20200709_122726.jpg (484.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20200709_122755.jpg (474.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20200709_122808.jpg (436.6 KB, 4 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-09-2020 at 08:37 AM.
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  #97  
Old 07-09-2020, 08:35 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Some more d24 throttle spool picts
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20200709_122820.jpg (583.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 20200709_122834.jpg (466.0 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 20200709_122911.jpg (483.1 KB, 3 views)
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  #98  
Old 07-10-2020, 06:24 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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These photos should help clarify the different accelerator cable clocking orientations:

First one is a D24T/M46 in a 740, no cruise control, no auto kickdown cable.
P1030923.JPG
You can see the accel cable enters at approx. 2 o'clock position (when viewed from the front). Seems like this could work for you?

Second one (shown placed alongside, in approximately correct orientation) with auto kickdown, and cruise control. Guessing from a D24T 740 w/AT and CC.
P1030924.JPG
Here the accel cable enters at roughly 6 o'clock position (when viewed from the front), must be similar to what you are dealing with?
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  #99  
Old 07-12-2020, 07:26 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadan View Post
Another unknown is how to get the tachometer to work. The original tach must have been wired to something in the distributor. I don't think there's a "W" terminal on the distributor I took off the Audi 200.
Another alternative that might work for running the tach is this product:
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....od/prd1192.htm

These can take almost any kind of input signal (w terminal, square wave from a hall effect sensor, etc) and convert it to a standard tachometer output like from an ignition coil, which is presumably what drove the tach originally in your gasser car. You could find another alternator that has a W terminal, if your existing one does not -- although it might have one already, as for some reason even many gas VW/Audi products had unused W terminals on their alternators -- and swap that on to run the converter from, or they offer a flywheel tooth sensor also that apparently you can bolt onto the bellhousing somewhere and it will pick up the speed that way.

I used one of these Dakota converters in a diesel swap into a gas Volvo 960 some years ago and it worked great, though that was the simpler previous version which I think they called the DSL-1. This updated current model supposedly does everything that unit did and more, though I have not tried one myself.

Their phone support is very good too so you could probably talk to them about your situation and they might be able to advise on what would work best.
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  #100  
Old 07-12-2020, 07:56 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Fun to see your progress on this, you do neat work, thanks for sharing it here!

Yes, I agree the final stage working through the finicky details always feels like the hardest and most tedious part. You can get to 95% completion very quickly but then spend an amazing amount of time trying to finish up that last 5% with little brackets, plumbing, electrical solutions etc. I think that's where a lot of ambitious projects die; some never make it to the point where they are fully functional since people lose motivation fighting those details, which is easy to understand. Or they sabotage the project at that stage by getting tired of the effort and settling for weak solutions. IMHO, it's how things are handled in this phase of a swap that makes or breaks the whole package in the end. Fortunately it looks like you are in no danger of letting your standards drop as many folks do.

Your earlier post was an interesting point also, noticing all the work the factory does on the original cars to get those things worked out, I agree with you there. All the little pieces and systems where you don't really pay attention to the intricate engineering effort until you have to re-create something like it yourself. The length and shape of every single wire and hose, the placement of harnesses and plumbing to avoid interference and maintain ease of access for future service, design of mounting systems, choice of fastener types, etc, are all the result of decisions and design work by the OEM... then when doing a rework as a one-off project like this one, the effort, measuring, planning, trial-and-error etc required to achieve a comparable well-finished result is eye-opening.

Granted, though, those efforts on the part of the OEM are sometimes lazy or unsuccessful or leave plenty of room for improvement, so it's not as if we should think of their solutions as sacred. I'm thinking of some places where service access or procedures are unnecessarily difficult, or a good example, the routing of heater hoses on a factory D24 or D24T engine under the injection pump where over time they are frequently damaged by fuel contamination. Many of us here with the Volvos have rerouted our hoses to avoid that area and also make service access far easier, with no functional downsides. So sometimes we can do better than the factory did, having the benefit of field experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadan View Post
There's plenty of space behind the head, injection pump and vacuum pump; much different than the 2.4 in the Volvo. Of course that's where the battery was sitting also.
What is being driven by the V-belt off the back of the camshaft in this configuration? Power steering? That is an unfamiliar setup, not used on the Volvo engines.
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