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Old 10-12-2020, 05:20 PM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Default prep for headstuds.

Looking for advice on the best why to put my headstuds into my volvo d24tic. I.e.. should I pull the head or just one at a time. Thank you everyone.
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:46 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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What is your reason for the studs? Are you planning to overboost? Otherwise, I would wait until a HG failure and install the studs with the cylinder head off. That would allow the best access for cleaning the threads.

Not sure installing the studs one by one with the head on is a good idea.
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Old 10-13-2020, 12:11 AM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Well the pump was performance upgraded by giles in Ontario. I have been collecting parts over the last 6 months. I have the headstuds. Boost gauge and egt gauge and oil pressure. And have a brand new hx30w with a turbosmart blow off. Looking to do an OEM plus build.
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Old 10-13-2020, 12:13 AM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Never the less. When I take my pump off again. Since it needs to be fixed(again...) I'll do most of everything like new head and upgrades.
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:33 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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What keeps happening with the IP?
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2020, 12:17 PM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Car was vandalized with water in fuel tank and it made it way to my injection pump. I did everything I could but the damage was done. So it had some metal flakes in the diesel i pulled form the pump. Its really sad aha. But ill just have to make sure its fixed and never happens again.
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2020, 10:48 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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The TDI guys when putting head studs in do sometimes use the method of doing them one at a time with the head in place. Have to be very careful and deliberate with the torquing process, but if you look around there you'll probably find some how-tos and success stories.

I think the logic is that getting the block threads squeaky clean and friction-free is less important when using studs, since the studs get screwed into the block under no tension (unlike the stock head bolts), reducing the friction that would otherwise be there fighting the bolt as it screws in. And anyway, unlike with the stock bolts, any rotational friction in the block threads that did exist wouldn't have an effect on ultimate installation torque and clamping force of the stud, since that is controlled instead on the other end where the new clean nut is screwing onto new clean (and lubed) stud threads. So for those reasons those TDI folks seem to have decent results with this method when they do it carefully.

Also remember, though, that those TDI engines, unlike a D24T, have a metal head gasket from the factory plus direct injection that puts less thermal stress on the cylinder head and headgasket, so by their design they are less susceptible to head gasket leaks and more forgiving of mistakes. Plus the engines are 10-20 years newer and thus the effects of aging are less pronounced. On a D24T in a Volvo, taking the opportunity to renew the headgasket while putting head studs in by doing it with head off is probably the better way to go, especially if the rationale of the studs is that you are planning to push the limits of the engine. Running on the edge with a 30-year-old composition headgasket is asking for trouble, no matter what kind of hardware you are holding the head down with.

As far as "prep" the biggest question is this:

Do you have, or have access to, the complete set of factory tools that is required to remove and reinstall the timing belts and related components as part of a cylinder head R&R?
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2020, 09:01 AM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Some tools I have, some i can make. And than the others I'll just have to get lucky aha. But I'm not worried at all doing the timing. It has to be done so I'd better learn. I have a couple engines too.
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Old 10-28-2020, 05:47 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foghorn117 View Post
Some tools I have, some i can make. And than the others I'll just have to get lucky aha. But I'm not worried at all doing the timing. It has to be done so I'd better learn. I have a couple engines too.
That's good, you can practice on the spare engines.

When you say "get lucky" do you mean get lucky finding the required tools, or get lucky doing the job without them?

If you're looking for luck finding the tools, you will eventually, they are out there if you have time to wait. Best to make note of the specific Volvo tool numbers you need and watch eBay closely, searching on those numbers, that's where they show up. Sometimes cheap, sometimes not.

But if you're thinking you might get lucky doing the job without them, think again!

One thing for sure: don't take it apart until after you have *everything* you need to put it back together. Nothing worse than tearing down a piece of good running equipment and only afterwards discovering that you have to search/wait for an unknown amount of time to get the things you need to make it work again.
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