Meet Ronald Reagan my 244 D24!

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel

I think I could do the head seal on car in 20 min after a practice run.
there is some patience, and counting of screw-turns, but it isn't really hard or scary.some have even lucked out,and had surface tension hold the little washer in place without running the bolt down the middle, but I know at least one person lunched a pump that way, and I would not do it without the counter bolt.

Agreed. Cleanliness, turn screws in equal small increments, as well as the counter bolt, the counter bolt giving piece of mind.

Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel

I guess I have the right wrenches, because I seem to take the bracket off about half the time anyway.

What wrenches do you use? Gearwrenches?

Also: How do you get the pulley off while the IP is still mounted to the engine in-car?

[ngoma]

Good info above on the input shaft seal. Thanks, 745 TurboGreasel!

Be aware that replacing the input shaft seal may be a short-lived solution, if the shaft bushing has worn oblong (usually because of previous excessive IP belt tension). The excessive shaft runout will cause the new seal to fail.

So far happycamper, you are at hi-press head seal, and input shaft seal. Better to remove the IP for these projects. Is there a way you can measure input shaft runout to get a better idea of the bushing condition?

Yes, timing belt change requires timing tools, camshaft positioning tool, crankshaft bolt torque multiplier, and crank pulley lock holder. Sorry my terminology is off, don't have the patience to research correct tool names at the moment.

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Yes, timing belt change requires timing tools, camshaft positioning tool, crankshaft bolt torque multiplier, and crank pulley lock holder.

IMO you really have to also have a camshaft sprocket counterhold tool of some kind -- without it setting cam and pump timing right on is way more of a hassle and you risk hurting the belt if you let it absorb forces while torquing the bolts. A generic or TDI tool is fine on the front sprocket; on the back the genuine Volvo 9995199 tool or a home-made copy of it is about the only thing I know of that will work if the engine is in the car (240 especially) due to tight clearance.

I'm pretty certain I used a DGK-121 last time I needed a seal kit, what's the difference between the 121 and 126? I do remember having to get the 17mm shaft seal separate, the 121 kit also came with a 20mm seal.

[745 TurboGreasel]

Originally Posted by ngoma

What wrenches do you use? Gearwrenches?

Also: How do you get the pulley off while the IP is still mounted to the engine in-car?

Gearwrenches? Yes, both floppy and straight, and a harbor freight stubby.
How do you get the pulley off? pry equally from 2-3 sides(wide screwdriver or wood chisel), brass hammer. apply pressure, then tap to release taper bond.
If you pry from only one side, it will be ruined. I think you could get the TDI style cam pulley puller in there if you really wanted to.

Originally Posted by v8volvo

I'm pretty certain I used a DGK-121 last time I needed a seal kit, what's the difference between the 121 and 126? I do remember having to get the 17mm shaft seal separate, the 121 kit also came with a 20mm seal.

121 is the turbo kit, having an LDA seal, but doesn't have the earlier VW cold start stuff, not sure what version of that a 240 has.

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/v...hp?f=8&t=11314

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel

Gearwrenches? Yes, both floppy and straight, and a harbor freight stubby.

You're saying you have been able to get the box ends of those wrenches down over the bolt heads on the upper two bolts behind the pump? I don't think I have ever been able to fit them in there. I guess even if I did, I would be worried about winding the bolt out far enough that it trapped the wrench since the ratchet goes only one way. (On my set anyway, maybe you have the type with two-directional ratchet.)

Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel

How do you get the pulley off? pry equally from 2-3 sides(wide screwdriver or wood chisel), brass hammer. apply pressure, then tap to release taper bond.
If you pry from only one side, it will be ruined. I think you could get the TDI style cam pulley puller in there if you really wanted to.

I have only ever had the guts to do the screwdriver method on a pump that I knew I wasn't planning to use again. I don't think that little thrust flange on the driveshaft was really designed with the idea of handling that kind of force, though I guess I have never heard of one that broke so maybe I'm just overcautious...

Unfortunately the TDI puller doesn't even come close (3 jaw ALH style is all wrong and 2 jaw AHU/1Z type has pegs that are too fat and spaced too far apart) -- you can believe that I tried both, as well as a couple other options, before I spent the money on the Volvo tool. Problem is getting something slim enough to fit between pump gear and firewall -- on almost everything, even if you can get one with jaws sized and spaced right, the head of the forcing screw runs into the firewall. I think it would not be too difficult to modify another puller to work, but it is a pretty specialized application and I don't think it would be easy to find something that would do the job right off the shelf, other than the OE 9995204.

[745 TurboGreasel]

You have to use the open end till you can move it around some. I don't have any of the bi'direction type wrenches. mostly I reach under the pump and up.


a whole lot of force is not needed, especially if you set up some vibration with a 'tap'.

2 prong puller sort of like this I made one from a picture online, but don't recall seeing the actual VW tool. mine is 2 large bolts with ground down heads that are put through the pulley holes, and rotated to lock, then the force screw is turned.

I can't find the picture now.