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  #1  
Old 06-10-2021, 07:06 AM
Arnow Arnow is offline
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Default More power for my vw LT

Hi Guys,

I'm Arno and im from Holland. I have an LT with a DW motor, which is very slow and hardly gets up the mountain.
Now last year I bought a turbo engine from a Volvo 740 that I want to build in the LT. The seller had taken the engine out of an LT and had it overhauled, until the Volvo had an accident after 20k km.

The overhaul company has stamped a different number on it during overhaul, so I don't know which engine I have. Do any of you know if there are differences on the outside of an engine?

I want to build it in the LT, but now that it's out, I'm going to tackle it right away. I want an intercooler that already gives more power but would like to go towards 130-150hp.
Now I have come across the company www.wilfrieds-tuning.de in Germany that indicates to bring LTs with original parts to 150 hp and to drive up the mountain with a good oil cooler without thermal problems. Does anyone have an idea how to achieve this?

I hope you can help me with both questions

Regards Arno

Last edited by Arnow; 06-14-2021 at 12:24 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2021, 09:12 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Welcome to the forum.

If you post photos of the front of the engine we can help identify it.

Forum member Anders sells 12mm injection pumps.

Yes, a good oil cooler would help control temperatures during sustained loads, good radiator probably just as (or more) important. Also, possibly a lower temperature thermostat, and overdriven water pump.
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2021, 12:26 PM
Arnow Arnow is offline
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Thanks for your reply! What is a 12mm pump about in terms of power increase? Does a modified fuel pen also have extra added value?

I have some pictures of the engine, i have my pc at the office so i post the picrures tomorrow. the belts need to be refitted and the fuel pump wants to give it new gaskets, I'm working on that
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Old 06-11-2021, 02:11 AM
Arnow Arnow is offline
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The images can be viewed in the following link; https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...TM?usp=sharing

I also have many loose parts such as an extra turbo, which can be seen separately in the photo.

Regards Arno
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  #5  
Old 06-11-2021, 11:18 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnow View Post
Thanks for your reply! What is a 12mm pump about in terms of power increase? Does a modified fuel pen also have extra added value?
Sorry I cannot provide exact numbers but the 12mm IP and modified fuel pin are parts of the whole, when building for more HP.

The other parts: Intercooler, turbo upgrade, GTD injectors, head studs, MLS head gasket, possibly oversized pistons, possibly head porting, etc.

Here is some reading material you may find helpful:

https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=387

https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1977

https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1980

https://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1646

https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1635
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2021, 12:57 AM
Arnow Arnow is offline
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Thank you for the info. I had already read the treads, the difference with, for example, a Volvo is that the car is not built for high power, so a 140-150 hp is more than enough.

The power must be noticeable at the bottom as well as at the top in order to be able to climb a mountain without difficulty, for example. Actually I'm looking for the best way to get this done, maybe a 12mm pump and GTD injectors in combination with an intercooler and oil cooler is enough for 130-140hp?
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Old 06-13-2021, 11:14 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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You can PM Anders and ask him to get involved in this thread. He is probably the one with the most experience with the 12mm IP here in this forum.
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2021, 08:20 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Agree on contacting Anders, he has the most knowledge of options for extracting more power. Most of the rest of us feel lucky just to be able to keep our old cars on the road in stock configuration.

For what it's worth, I think you are very much correct in thinking that cooling upgrades are the first and most important step. More power is useless if you are not able to safely use it for more than a few seconds at a time, which is what you will wish to do for moving a large heavy vehicle. Sounds like you know this but it always bears repeating, since many people will start with a simple horsepower "goal" number, but won't put any thought into ensuring that power number is one that can be used continuously, not just momentarily. Remember that engines are often tuned for LESS hp in a higher load demand application like a heavy truck versus the same engine when used in a lightweight passenger car, so that the engine can be safely expected to operate constantly at its max power level which would rarely be used in a regular car. It's counterintuitive, but lots of people get into serious trouble when they install little engines into big heavy vehicles and figure they will make up the difference by cranking up the boost and fuel. See this thread for one example I have known personally, that led to melted pistons! https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=2015

Increasing power above the stock level in a heavy vehicle that will see constant hard use means you have to be very smart and very careful in the changes you make, and in how you then operate the truck with the extra power available, if you don't want it to quickly lead to trouble.

Cooling capability and temperature monitoring capability are the two big keys to safely running at higher power levels continuously. An upgraded or at least excellent condition/new stock radiator, high quality thermostat in a slightly lower temperature rating (many of us like the 80C Wahler or Behr units), upgraded higher flow water pump as previously mentioned, and high capacity external oil cooler are all good ideas. If your vehicle has a clutch type radiator fan, ensure the fan clutch works well and replace or upgrade if in doubt. Adding an electric booster fan ahead of the radiator is sometimes also a good idea depending on your setup and space availability. Extra power puts more heat into the pistons which are cooled by oil jets so a lot of the heat goes into the oil, thus, yes, the oil cooler's heat exchanging ability becomes more important and improvements are needed there -- both to improve heat transfer ability and, if possible, change to an external air-to-air type cooler to separate the oil cooler system from the main cooling system and keep that extra heat load out of the radiator and coolant. Finally, if you have space for it, an intercooler is a good idea too.

Then, to keep track of everything that matters, adding EGT gauge, oil temp gauge, and ensuring you have a 100% functional coolant temperature gauge are all important. Then watch them all closely, all the time. Better yet are warning systems with audible lights or alarms to alert you to coolant/oil/EGT over-temperature, over-pressurization of the cooling system, or coolant loss. Those things are all available and are good ideas if you want to really have all the tools to protect your engine and your vacation.

In sum, your best approach would be to do cooling and gauge upgrades first then start cautiously increasing power level second.

I don't think you would need the 12mm injection pump for the power levels you are considering. In fact I think it would be counterproductive, too much fuel and hard to tune for good driveability and thermal control in your application. The stock 10mm pump can easily achieve 150 hp or more before causing any kind of bottleneck. Your limiting factor in your situation will always be cooling capability, not fuel delivery. The stock engine, turbo, and fuel pump will be able to generate more heat than your cooling system can get rid of. Carefully balancing that rate of heat output to heat transfer be your most important task.
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  #9  
Old 06-14-2021, 12:16 PM
Arnow Arnow is offline
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Default More cooling and power in my LT

Thanks for your replies, I'll send Anders a PM so he can give his opinion.

The cooling is indeed at the top of the list, I have had problems with overheating with my current engine a number of times when climbing mountains.
I want to make the cooling perfect and have the following ideas;

- Other radiator with electric fan or new radiator, I have to figure this out even better

- A good intercooler with sufficient size, there is room for this.
- A good oil cooler, want to order the next; https://www.wilfrieds-tuning.de/inde...oelkuehler-kit
- Heat protection for turbo and exhaust.
- Replace all rubber hoses with silicone.
- Better temperature sensor
- Better water pump, any advice for this one?
- Better airfilter
- Meters to monitor.

I think it is indeed a good idea to protect these meters with an alarm! great idea.

Now I first want to prepare the engine and order all parts, the engine will be installed next winter so that we can still go on holiday by bus. I would like to replace the gaskets of the pump so that this does not have to be done later, that is why I also want to implement all improvements immediately.

I read that the tunerthat i mentioned earlier mainly adjusts the pump with original Bosch parts and adjusts the turbo with a regulator to more bar.

I don't know if this is the right translation and if anyone knows exactly what this means, this are the additions;

- Reinforced safety valve in the AT
- Conversion to LDA, diesel pump, turbo control

And this is mentioned about the results (which I also like);

The torque increase is approx. 50-70 Nm. The turbo lag is reduced by approx. 200-300 rpm. The filling pressure is increased from 0.7 bar to 0.9 bar.

There are a number of projects with the LTs on its facebook; https://www.facebook.com/pages/categ...2255760700546/

Last edited by Arnow; 06-14-2021 at 12:46 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-09-2021, 09:27 AM
Arnow Arnow is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2021
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Vehicle: VW LT1
Posts: 7
Default D24TIC build VW LT

Currently I am building the bike, I have found out that the bike is a d24t coming from a 740 original.

Now I have an intake manifold from an LT DW engine with a black rubber cover on it, I've seen on the internet and saw that people weld it shut, is this necessary if I want the turbo to 1 bar?

Furthermore, I have currently bought all parts except the intercooler and the hoses, I have yet to buy these. I'll post some pictures of the conversion next week
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