Cold Start Waxstat

[ian2000t]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

Ian, glad to hear that you got it installed and set up. I suspect that your slight decrease in low-end snap will be accompanied by reduced smoke, better mileage, and less noise along with increased engine life. I suppose only time will tell in the case of the last one though. ;-)

Interesting... Does the Cold start do something more than just advance the timing then, like inject more fuel?

[ian2000t]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

Ian, glad to hear that you got it installed and set up. I suspect that your slight decrease in low-end snap will be accompanied by reduced smoke, better mileage, and less noise along with increased engine life. I suppose only time will tell in the case of the last one though. ;-)

Interesting... Does the Cold start do something more than just advance the timing then,, like inject more fuel?

[piper109]

Originally Posted by ian2000t

Interesting... Does the Cold start do something more than just advance the timing then,, like inject more fuel?

Yes it does if you set it to do so. It raises the idle by providing a stop for the throttle lever to return to in the form of a ball shaped bolt that sits in a slot. When cold, the ball holds the throttle lever away from the back stop so the idle is higher. As the engine warms up, the stop goes back and the lever rests against the back stop/idle adjustment screw. You have to slide the ball shaped bolt to a place where the throttle is held at a higher idle when the engine is cold.

Steve

[ian2000t]

Right ok, well that won't have been the reason for the extra power pre-turbo, as I removed the ball completely and haven't refitted it yet. I will refit it, but at the moment if it idles a little slowly from cold I just manually give it a little throttle.

[v8volvo]

No, the injected quantity is not changed by the cold start lever position, only timing. Advanced timing can make for stronger power, and if it is coming from having the cold start advance engaged, then it stands to reason that you would notice the difference only at lower revs, since the CS advance system only affects actual timing below about 2500 RPM. After that point the dynamic advance takes over regardless of what the CS system is doing, so the effect of the cold start device on timing and power would only be felt in the bottom end of the rev band. To achieve that effect across the entire RPM span you would need to physically alter the static injection pump timing setting in the advanced direction.

However, like too much boost or too much nitrous or meth or propane, too much advance can make for more speed and fun, but have a detrimental effect on long-term engine health. Good that you fixed it, even if it loses you a couple of ticks getting off the line in the stoplight grand prix. There are other ways of making up for that.

[MoeTell]

Where did you try attaching the guide wire and what kind of wire did you use? I have one from a lawn mower that I have set aside to use when the actuator on my own isn't able.
cars rent surfers paradise

[Boots]

My waxy wotnot is also on its way out. Up until the last few weeks it was working pretty well but now doesn't want to go all the way to the hot-running position.

(It has always drifted back to a little bit of advance/fast idle in really cold weather (0 deg C and below) when the engine is not working hard - don't think there was enough coolant flow to keep it fully actuated in these conditions...)

I'll be taking the advice re keeping the spring compressed and making a tool to remove the locking ring.

I'll try to get some decent piccies as I do it and post them up. Likely to be late in Jan when I get round to it though as I have the IP and rear brake pads to tackle first!

[Nevadan]

My first attempt at diagnosing the wax-stat resulted in an easier way to get the springs compressed....just use a temporary longer bolt/screw in the top hole to get it started. The photo is after it's back together but that's the screw I used.

[Nevadan]

I've read this thread several times and still have some questions. In the first photo right at the tip of the pen is the gap between the advancing arm and the stop. The wax-stat is completely cold therefore fully advanced. Is that the correct distance? Does it only move that far once the thermostat pushes it back?



This photo shows the manual fuel cut-off valve. There's a relationship between the wax-stat moving the advance arm and the arm that connects to the fuel cut-off. It would appear that once the advance arm is forced back against the stop it may shut off the fuel. I don't have my "Green Book" on the engine yet so I'm not sure about the adjustment. This engine is running on an engine stand and I don't have any water going through the cooling system and the wax-stat doesn't work anyway.

[ngoma]

Mine rests at approx. the same distance from the stop (when cold) and it is apparently functioning properly, so you are probably OK there.

Not sure what you mean by the cold start lever movement tripping the shutoff lever, but yours seems to have some additional peripherals attached so maybe???