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  #11  
Old 10-23-2011, 12:16 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Well, I can't be sure it is half petrol, half diesel. But that's why i'm only mixing misfuel in at 10-15% max. Most guys on the veg forum use 10-15% petrol for thinning.

This rattle happens for all of the tried blends:

50/50 svo/diesel
90/10 svo/misfuel
20/80 svo/misfuel

Yeh, these engines are rattly anyway when cold and on diesel it clatters a bit but no where near as much as with any veg in.

Do you think the Monark 273 nozzles could be to blame?
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2011, 03:32 AM
piper109 piper109 is offline
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Cant comment on the nozzles as I have no experience or knowledge of them personally. Generally if the engine is rattly its because the timing is set too advanced. It would not be a bad idea to check that. A shade less than 1 mm before TDC seems to work best, around .95 though the book says less than that.
Most engines will rattle more when they are cold.
I have heard that starting up on veg oil causes coking of the rings which then become gummed up and stuck in their grooves.

Steve
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  #13  
Old 10-23-2011, 01:51 PM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Perhaps these engines just don't like veg when cold then - not like the XUD engines.

Timing set spot on 0.96mm - checked out the other day. If anything that's to far retarded - many on here advance it somewhat with the Monark nozzles, and also common practice to advance it when running veg due to slower burn.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2011, 09:34 AM
bryancald bryancald is offline
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I've been running B99 in my N/A 240 and have had to reseal the pump and swap the rubber fuel lines to Viton. I eventually plan to run WVO using a two tank system with auto switching, but this is $1900 down the road. My engine seems to run fine on bio. I've run around 200 gallons through it so far. It will tear through regular rubber pretty fast. When my IP started leaking, it quickly ate up the IP belt. I purchase my bio from a local refinery for about $3.85 a gallon.

My engine has been smoking more since I messed with the CSV during reseal. I thought I had it finally set it properly after some adjustments, but now I think it's the main culprit. (It didn't smoke too bad prior to the reseal).
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2011, 02:02 PM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Yeh, mine has sprung a few leaks now. Trying to find a pump to reseal, but they're like rocking horse poo round here.

Does yours rattle lots (more than diesel) on veg/bio from cold start - less than 10 degrees C.
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  #16  
Old 11-23-2011, 06:18 AM
bryancald bryancald is offline
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Not really, to be honest with you, I don't notice much of a difference but the smell.
I also like fueling up at home.
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2011, 11:47 AM
michaelovitch michaelovitch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmer View Post
Also forgot to mention that im lead to believe you will need new pump seals that the wvo cant eat away at
True !

it will eat them in few days or weeks !

Viscosity is the problem.
With a ve pump you can't really run a lot of vo in winter. max 20%

You need to heat it up a lot and you need to adjust your injectors at more than they should 130 bars stock and way more following the mix oil/diesel.
re adjust the pump setting too because you spray later.

Here the people do it with ve pump because they can handle more than the rotodiesel for example but they do not go over 20 or max 30 % in winter with risks of breakage if the mix is not heated up enough.

There are heat exchanger added stock fuel filters heaters modified etc....to run vo
look here

http://www.oliomobile.org/

and here

http://www.forum4x4.org/threads/8941...A-GAZOIL/page5
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  #18  
Old 11-24-2011, 12:25 PM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Yes, heat exchanger very good idea - I am planning on fitting one of these.

Remember though when you say 20/30% Max, you are talking about mixing with diesel. Mixing with petrol is far more efficient to bring the viscosity down. Also the Bosch ve pump is THE best pump for veg. Have a look on vegetable oil diesel forum - some on there still run their XUD pug engines on nearly 100%through winter and have done for years
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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  #19  
Old 11-24-2011, 12:46 PM
michaelovitch michaelovitch is offline
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Yes, mixing with diesel.
Petrol is not appropriate for a diesel engine in my opinion.
The quality of the combustion will drop.
it's the exact same thing that if you mix petrol in diesel fuel in stock conditions
To have max benefits of the VO (its a nonsense to dilute petrol that you bought, to run on "free" fuel while you are obliged yet to buy some diesel fuel for start the car ) i suggest you to heat it up till you have the same viscosity as diesel fuel.
In winter you will can start on diesel and once hot enough switch on VO.(VO that you must heat up in any case)
The straight starts on VO are possible but really risky if you use an electric heater in the very proximity of the pump and in fuel filter.
otherwise you will break the pump.
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2011, 01:43 PM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Mixing petrol with veg oil is not false economy. To thin veg oil you can heat or mix with petrol. Yes, combustion is slightly wise with petrol but using a cetane enhancer like veggiboost restores the power to that of standard diesel.

Also, it is cheaper to use petrol because thinking with diesel would take say 50% diesel or 15% petrol - which is cheapest? Petrol is only harmful to a diesel pump because it is too thin to lubricate it. Mixed with veg oil it becomes the same thickness as diesel.

I kno theory says don't do it, but please have a read on the forum - practice shows it works very well, even in winter!
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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