RedArrow Refurbishes d24t from a brown 740

[RedArrow]

Pump pictures with olive green color

[RedArrow]

The little metal holders soaked 2days in diesel bc they were rusty, then scrubbed them off with a toothbrush.

The rubber linings cleaned up and softened up using Tire Foam. I added a little bit of (sprayed) silicone grease before putting them on the sharp edges of the cover.

The two center grommets got ArmorAll and slipped right back in after a cleanup.

They look so good, totally minty! Pictures arent too good but in real life it is a nice result.

D24 will be happy.

[RedArrow]

Thursday for Turbo

I had to deal with lots of tight and corroded bolts and nuts today
but managed to get the turbo off and all apart.

I also added clearcoat on some parts that had been painted earlier.


Parts that I would need to find and buy somehow:

-large round gasket that goes on the edge of the turbine housing.

-metal gasket under the cover plate

-maybe new studs and *definitely new bolts

-2 small hoses for the turbo --- ??STILL AVAILABLE?? or can I use any kind of heat&oil tolerant turbo hose sections that fit?

(-maybe also the gasket that goes on the `front` piping where the large cotter pin goes in front of the turbo)


Maybe a Garrett T3 turbo rebuild kit would have all of these in one package?


The 3 hold-down metal strips and their bolts are in very good condition, I wouldn`t need those.


Question:

I found a couple of tiny hairline cracks and wondering if it will be holding okay for some time?
It is probably typical so let me know please if you have an idea.

(For now, I sanded it just a little bit, using a very very fine sandpaper, by hand; because the surface where the `cracks` were felt not completely smooth to the touch)

I ran out of the 2000F high heat black exhaust paint so for now it is silver but I`ll add two black coats tomorrow or actually the day after.


PS.
The metal gasket has 5-6 cracks that could split if I applied pressure by fingers. Still available?? (gasket below wastegate, held by 4 nuts and a cover)

[RedArrow]

So for now this is finally how it looks.

The inside is also cleaned and checked. The oil passages will be blown through later tomorrow but they got the wd40 flush treatment already.

[v8volvo]

You're making a lot of fast progress, looks great!

Maybe you already said this, but what are your plans for using the engine?

[RedArrow]

Hi V8volvo,
If the engine has no overheat issues and if it runs good then ideally it would eventually drop in a clean wagon if found.
You can see in the videos where it runs that there was some vapor coming out of the thermostat housing so I have to verify first that the head gasket is okay.

It`s a nice pandemic project and hopefully soon I`ll have a cooling system built for it so I could run it a little longer and diagnose things.

I should measure compression too once the engine gets back together. The valves are fine and hoping there is no hg issues on the road.


ALSO, if for any reason my d24t in the car craps out or needs a big overhaul then i`d have a backup plan by using this engine.


Hopefully the wagon you put together will hold just fine for many years to come though.


It just pulled a heavy trailer with the donor car stuff and a huge amount of tools on it through the mountains and for hundreds of miles And in hot weather so that`s promising news.

I am trying to keep it in top shape!

I HAVE TONS OF QUESTIONS BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE FORUM IS SO `DEAD` THESE DAYS.

[v8volvo]

Sounds like a fun plan, after what you have done to it, it will look sharp wherever it goes, even if it's just on an engine stand for a while.

Originally Posted by RedArrow

I HAVE TONS OF QUESTIONS BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE FORUM IS SO `DEAD` THESE DAYS.

I don't think it's that dead, really. It's true that sometimes we go a few days or a week without much discussion on here (that may just be because everyone's cars are running with no problems during that time ). But when a question does get asked, even today there is still an active conversation that occurs in response to it. There are a number of helpful and knowledgeable members -- including yourself -- who do a great job about making sure people find the info they need when they need it. I think that's the bottom line qualification for a well functioning forum. Clearly when members want to talk to each other on here they still do so, successfully. We all hope that continues to be true into the future.

Back to your project, again kudos, looks like a satisfying outcome so far. I see you had a few questions in there too, maybe will get into those a little tomorrow if there are some where I have any idea.

[RedArrow]

Thank you for the nice words and many special thanks for taking the time to try to answer some of my questions in the future.


Today again was a little busy around the d24t engine but there was some good progress in the end.

The day started by me trying to find the article that goes thru step by step how to reseal the VE injection pump that our cars have.
I found it, available online.
Such a beautifully edited, creative, smart, useful, well made article; million thank yous and much much respect goes out to Tom B who perpormed the `horribly` well detailed job and uploaded such a well-writen write-up for us and for later generations to use.

What an amazingly professional job, how nice it is to know we have someone who knows what to do with the hundred of parts that lay inside this sometimes problematic injection pump!! Very happy to read this article every time I open it. The pump refurb job seems more and more `doable` each time... but ... I`d never in a hundred years would attempt to play around the full refurb because it is such a huge project... and skills and knowledge and experience are all equally important for best results. Also special tools and superb creativity. If I ever need a rebuild, my pump ships North to Tom, for sure.

In his article I can see a nice factory tool for removing the shaft seal from the rear of the pump. I had to search for it in my d24 toolboxes and I found it, also found a Bosch bag with 3 seals in it, lots of o-rings labeled for d24t on the blue/white retro Volvo stickers, and a full ve pump reseal kit and some misc pump orings all labeled.

I was glad. I went out to the garage and started eyeballing the pump but decided to NOT use the tool to remove that seal bc

-pump doesnt leak
-pump was overhauled by a good shop
-also the Bosch seals did look quite different from what I can see in the pump I have here.
The Bosch ones I have do not have a rubber coating on the entire face and they are green not red as the one in my pump is.
At least they measured the same so i could have done it I think but again decided to not do it because I didnt want to end up stuck with something that didnt need a fix then `broke down`. The Murphy`s Law would have or could have provided me with some trouble...

I wanted to redo the rear shaft seal, BECAUSE when I got this engine, first thing I saw was that the rear belt was way too tight, and that is definitely not good for the pump seal there so I wanted to at least redo that seal. Next time... not today...

SO,


I decided to go forward with installing the pump on the engine instead
and finish up the entire pump side of the engine,
meaning installing everything that goes/is on the driver side of the d24t motor.

Then I realized I need a black high heat paint for the turbo and for the previously silver-painted exhaust manifold so I rode the Shadow to Autoz.ne and also loaded up some 8 bottles of brake cleaners. Sprayed the parts and...

...Installation of accessories then started...

I love it that the IP brackets are glossy black. It separates the farm green from the olive and creates a nice tone with the valve cover.

I cleaned out all holes, threads on the engine and applied some grease on the bolts
and set the large bracket up on the engine and placed the satin olive injection pump into its home

and stared at it for a while. I have to say: I loved it.
I think it came out awesome.

I installed the now black throttle linkage but first I had to assemble the annoyingly springy throttle spool and place it onto the bracket then get it all up on the IP, set it right and lube it up in the meantime. I made sure the rear pump belt was not overly tight, a happy belt is not tight over there. I have the Volvo belt tool but went with the `feel` of tightness and it will be totally fine. If this belt skips a tooth or breaks, there is no engine damage (but that`s not true for the front timing belt!).

Not so smart, I installed the inj pump on the engine but DID NOT put the bus bars up on the glowplugs, ughhh.
Anyway. I did it later and learned the hard way. I am not afraid of doing the 6 glowplugs now anymore, because I went thru the tight-space-process at least 6-7 times this week only lol.

[RedArrow]

If you go read the `Sticky` on this forum, you`ll see a very nice method of setting the timing in a special way that is much easier than following the Greenbook Volvo manual on the pump timing process. I have it printed out since years ago and it`s placed into my `repair folder` which is basically the Greenbook printed out plus other major advice printed out mostly from this forum. This way I don`t have to oil up my nice d24 books every time I have a project.

I really like the method but I couldn`t manage to get it to the values I wanted so I decided to go ahead and follow up what the greenbook said and did it that way which gave me a very good approximate value which I finished up to perfection by using the smart method from the `Sticky`.

I turned the engine over by hand multiple times before I set the timing and also rechecked the timing afterwards about 5 times.
I wanted to set it to 0.95 but it `landed` to .94 which is fine for now, I can always readjust it.

Then I installed the cleaned and repainted vacumpump (don`t forget to include the plunger and remember its orientation!) and added also the hard fuel lines, the filter housing and bracket, a nice Bosch filter, the fuel in/out hoses around the pump, injector return lines, put back the bolt into the pump where the dial gauge runs in (dont lose the washer!),

and THEN (and only then, idk WHY):

Yeah right... the $#@$% glowplug connectors... so now add the bus bars you stup!d! )) I should have done it earlier (before getting IP on engine!!) so I deserved struggleing again one more time... LOL

I had to redo the heat shrink tubing protection for the rear bus bar (done it a few days ago but). When I used the torch on the bolts behind the inj pump to remove the large bracket, I tried to keep all heat away from the pump and didnt realize I burnt thru one of the inj return lines and melted off the sleeve from the bus bar behind inj 5-6. No biggie... at least I kept the heat AWAY from the injection pump, right?! Yeah

[RedArrow]

Now that the driver side of the engine is loaded up,

it`s high time to continue with the passenger side of the motor.



When the pump got timed, I decided to remove the valve cover not just to confirm cylinder 1 TDC but to inspect and clean the reusable valve cover gasket. And the top of the head wiped off, gasket will seat/seal nicely.

I made sure all studs are in place and tight. This is very important to check because sometimes the valve cover studs dont seat well and are loose which is def not good for you and it will lead to a leak you won`t even find unless you trace very well and check everything again.

When the valve cover is off, always check these studs before setting the gasket back in place.
I cleaned my gasket and took pictures of the part # in its corner. Made by VW Audi, wow.
I thought it was a Goetze gasket.

I used new nuts, the ones that hold the long metal strips down; then followed the tightening sequence and torqued them to specs in 3 stages and then took picture ) (of the cleanest d24t I`ve seen in a long time)

for now it is clean, right?


THEN,

wiped the manifold side of the cyl head with several different type of solvents, making sure nothing gets on the fresh paint I sprayed on the towels and used 1 finger only to wipe all dirt off the head.
Looks good!


I couldnt find my ziplock bag with the new exhaust manifold gaskets... so
I continued taking pictures and put the tools away and cleaned up the lot of mess I created all day.


I installed the front timing cover, lower and top, cleaned a little bit again inside the intake ports and sealed it all back down using blue tape, just for the night.


The turbo needs assembly tomorrow, exh and intake manifold gaskets found (new), all bolts that are soaking in diesel/atf/acetone must get cleaned up and dried, greased, then assembly.

I`ll need to use gasketmaker between the intake and the tube below but that`s fine.

Add the starter too tomorrow and connect the motor oil pipings, the turbo hoses etc.



Also I`d like to check whether or not the wastegate valve opens, at all.

question:

What is the suggested value for this valve to open?
I am guessing the wastegate is adjustable by the allen that is on the valve itself? Thanks for advice.

question 2

how to set the boost pressure valve on the intake, the one at the front? I mean, how to figure out what`s best for my engine? I know it is set by a screwdriver, at the front. clockwise would increase, right?

esp now that the gunk and oil got cleaned out of the intake and etc, it will count a lot as a change for how it runs ... and might change previous setups so I`d like to know how to synchronize it all and confirm I have the right adjustments that`s best for the engine (stock, no mods, no mls, no headstuds or idk, no tuned pump, no big injectors on this d24t)

Thanks,
to be continued...