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  #11  
Old 06-19-2020, 10:05 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default 1985 brown 744 car with the d24 turbodiesel.

Okay,
so...
I don`t know what hit me when I thought a jumper cable would do justice... what a mistake. I went through some long thinking for a day to figure out what causes the engine `stuck` and `holding starter from doing its job`... ugh... till I decided to set the valves instead...

While doing that I discovered how insane of an idea it was to trust a jumper cable from daily driver d24t car new battery to starter to attempt a start-up.

This poor thing couldnt handle half of the juice that battery has and proper power never reached the poor starter lol. Upon inspection I saw that the jumper cable kind of melted away bigtime at places.

So, I grabbed the red thick positive cable from the donor car`s crossmember and used that and the car`s original earth connection and cable. Connected the battery to the d24t engine the right way as if it was in a car still. All connections were double checked (also on the ground on the motor):
All got OCD cleaned till bare metal and tightly safely hooked it all up and managed to achieve a super strong and fast rpm cranking immediately.

I installed the glowplugs back again and tested them again... and redid again the injectors with new seals and proper torque and set up the hard lines and the fuel system for a nice AND SAFE startup.

Filled the motor with 2gallons of Mobil 1 turbodiesel truck 5W40 motor oil and also for fuel at the IP I added a new, transparent bottle with fresh diesel in it.
Prepped the 12V hookup for the IP and made new ring connectors for the low-pressure inline fuel pump I added the day before.

For now, there is no factory fuel filtration set up but I kept surgical cleanliness around the fuel system, IP, injectors etc.
Earlier, and again, the injection pump has been flushed multiple times and appeared to be transfering fuel beautifully without dirt popping up...no hiccups no signs of scary goo whatsoever. At first, for the first days of hand cranking and pump flushing, the fuel return line was placed into a different bottle separately (not where the fuel was sucked into the IP from) but today for the initial first real startup I used only one bottle and drove both hoses into it to make it easier for me to handle the fluids and to not have to watch levels or refill the small bottle. But again it cant be run without coolant for too long...

The glowplugs needed to have power too and I activated them manually for 12seconds which I tested before and knew it was enough. All six were glowing red in 6-8seconds and I monitored that thru the injectors` holes earlier when injectors were still out... so later for the startup I only did glowplugs once, but I did 12seconds. I never cycle my d24t glowplugs. I use Bosch Duratherm quality plugs.

There was a huge amount of air in, so it took about 4 tries of 30-45seconds of cranking (5mins apart) to go thru some bleeding that was enough finally to let me power up the 12V to the IP. (There was a lot of cranking done earlier for the oil pump and for the oil to reach places) EXCITING!!!!
Hurrayy the shutoff solenoid also clicked (and I verified 12.x Volts both at the ip and at the starter too).

I used a wire as `rope` thru the throttle linkage holes in order for me to pull the throttle linkage into WOT when if it was necessary.

Prepared a 2x4 wooden piece and kept it handy at all times, didn`t give this nice d24t a chance to go thru a runaway situation due to stuck internals of the ip or whatever (would use it to block intake / or turbo inlet / if the engine developed a runaway, to choke the engine to a full stop).

I never needed it but it is a must when a car sat years. Or when you dont know IF it sat...

Ready to do glowplugs, hit the `key`, Sure it fired up very soon! On all cylinders! And all at once! and no weird running or acting up. 3 straps also supported the engine to the beams in the ceiling, just in case if it wanted to wobble off the stand or anything.
Started!!!!!! RUNSSSSS!
And it runs really well, I think.


I forgot to disconnect the coldstart device so the first idle sounds too high... but now that is done and tomorrow I will finally check timing...
It doesnt seem to be off though. The cellphone microphone picked up all kind of noises and the motor sounds way louder than it was in real life. The garage echoes but anyway it ran so nicely.

The motor smokes a little, i think only because the ip had a flush earlier using the mixture of wd40 and atf, 1 to 10 ratio I think. All of that has left remains in the system so I think that is why it smoked so much. The coolant passage at the removed thermostat started to give out some ``smoke`` too, I`m hoping it is just some coolant vaporizing from the internal ways of the cooling system within the block. To be confirmed later...

It roared up to life and ran relatively smoothly. The rpm was too high i think or it isnt perfectly set, idk for now. Tinkering will have to wait until tomorrow...

I could only run it for 30 seconds bc theres no cooling system for now.
In the next hour I ran it for another 1minute and then after waiting another hour I ran it for 90seconds. Someone could give me advice on that because for now I do not think anything over a minute is safe.

It seems to run flawlessly and I am so so happy!

I can hear 1 injector knocking just a tiny bit, i think.
Im not sure bc the little fuel pump also has this weird sound as it is helping the IP receive constant fuel... not like it needed it. Im especially glad about that, too. Soon after it deserved fresh paint for the IP cover as Farm Equipment Green from Rustoleum which I like a lot. Close to the color it originally had, I think.

So, time to share pictures and videos but I am feeling knocked down a little. It was multiple days of diesel bricking but it was definitely worth the try to resurrect this one.
And, it was worth saving it from the sedan that got scrapped right after I saved whatever was savable.

Another d24t car died but its heart lives on and hopefully it will make it one day into a nice clean wagon.

Cheers everyone, thank you for this forum for the endless great info and advice.
Happy Bricking, dieselers!

Last edited by RedArrow; 02-14-2021 at 11:37 AM.
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2020, 10:59 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Video of cranking etc

https://youtu.be/DqVyHppzVNc

https://youtu.be/U00DYSakJL0

The big starter is a Remy, remanufactured in Mexico, runs perfect, the black one is a big Bosch, perfect, the one that was on the car and broke is a Hitachi small size starter, and idk what I have on my other d24t.

Interesting to see the size differences, I`ll take another pict to show how small the hitachi is compared to the bosch here.
The hitachi starter btw got killed on the 744 i think because the glowplugs were all out and they cranked it too much.

So, summary, glowplugs and consequently the dead starter plus major rust too, were the cause of this 744td ending up in the junkyard and almost smashed to the ground on the same day. I`m so glad I saved this one. Let`s hope it runs well and the story continues.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 06-19-2020 at 11:05 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2020, 08:43 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Default

Nice! Good save!

I remember seeing that car come up in the orphan thread on tbricks a while ago, figured when I saw what it looked like half sunk into the ground and with all the body damage it would be a goner for sure.

Great stories, glad you scored some good parts off it and a good running engine!
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2020, 03:22 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Good on you for figuring out that the cheap run-of-the-mill jumper cables weren't up to the task. That is what made your happy results possible. BTW, there ARE jumper cables that can do what you were attempting, but they are not what you find easily at Walmart. Not popular enough because they are expensive, heavy, thick, hard to wrestle with.

Here are a couple of ideas for you for next time:

When priming the system, DO have the IP fuel shutoff energized and the throttle position held at WOT-- in an effort to fill the injectors and hardlines as soon as possible.

When you had the injectors or GPs out, you could have added some motor oil (~1/4 tsp.) into each hole. This helps quickly raise the compression, especially if the rings may have dried out over time.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2020, 09:42 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
When priming the system, DO have the IP fuel shutoff energized and the throttle position held at WOT-- in an effort to fill the injectors and hardlines as soon as possible.

When you had the injectors or GPs out, you could have added some motor oil (~1/4 tsp.) into each hole. This helps quickly raise the compression, especially if the rings may have dried out over time.
Yeah, I actually did that, you can see me pulling it by a long wire
The oil def helped some though it did already have some very good compression built up through the days of tinkering. I hand-rolled the engine over and over again in both directions, countless times each day and then with the starter, plugs or injctrs or both out.

It was really cool to get it back to life actually.
Next time I will do 12V all the time as you suggested but this time I definitely didnt want it to possibly fire up too early for a few days so I had time to go thru other stuff.


Pictures: my hands arent covered in oil that is leaking but the dirty block had its oil lifted up by the good old diesel fuel which i used to clean up stuff... It lifted up most of the crap as stage 1 cleanup lol. Great for soaking too and I dont need to fill my lungs with brake cleaner
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Last edited by RedArrow; 06-20-2020 at 11:28 PM.
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  #16  
Old 06-20-2020, 10:44 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Nice! Good save!

I remember seeing that car come up in the orphan thread on tbricks a while ago, figured when I saw what it looked like half sunk into the ground and with all the body damage it would be a goner for sure.

Great stories, glad you scored some good parts off it and a good running engine!
Yeah it was awesome to finally have a td popping up `near me` (200miles UGHH). Nothing went smoothly but all in all it was great adventure and keeps coming.
Thanks for the motivation!
Yes the car itself had to be scrapped due to extensive heavy rust and a nonexistent paintjob too unfortunately. Interior was also nearly horrible.
It must have been a very nice car to drive, esp in 1985 and I`m sure the only owner loved it all all along and partly that`s why it never got sold until it completely went from no use.
Sad. I`m sure they loved this car and it got the parts it needed, from Volvo.

I found paperwork in the car that shows paperwork and tabs, insurance etc from a 1986 Volvo 740 wagon Turbodiesel too, which they also owned.
I wonder where it is, I may ask the owner about specific history on this car, or whatever they can remember about the life of their diesel. Maybe they have some info on how and why the sedan got parked.

According to the initial ad and also the story I heard from the scrapper tower is that there was a dui involved and the car had some rust and wouldnt pass the strict state inspection then got parked. It was listed with info stating that the starter was dead so we can figure some.

I ran the motor today again for a short time about 90seconds and tried to see also how it starts after that. Seems to be a nice one.
I`m going to include some pictures in every post. The belts front and back are Volvo belts. Are those still available and installed at/by the dealerships or am I looking at ancient setups?
I`m guessing that this one owner car when if it had trouble it always ended up at the Volvo stealership and got set up properly there and dressed up with oem parts. Clearly someone bricksmart did the work on this thing and the parts I`m seeing tell the story.

Im just hoping for now that the HG isnt gone and the fog/smoke/steam/vapor is not exhaust gases but evaporating leftovers of the coolant still inside the passageways of the motor. Thru the thermostat housing I mean. My wobbly shaky videos show some of that.

BTW, car has a 3-notch headgasket and I can read what exactly it has on.
It is also possible that this motor got rebuilt at some point just as the injection pump was. If it was, I cant tell for now but as I said, I will ask the PO and share here.

They forgot to do the Italian tune-up, for sure. Probably elderly folks.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-10-2020 at 08:54 PM.
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  #17  
Old 06-20-2020, 11:23 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default D24t 744 1985 td motor checkups

more pictures of some progress...

The exhaust manifold has a crack at the same location where my other d24t developed one: right under the mushroom egr lowest joint...at the skinny part of the ex manifold.
Prob a common crack? Idk.

The factory green started showing.

I have a question.
The water plugs or freeze plugs look shiny. I never had a used d24 with those being so clean so i assume these arent the factory originals.
Nice. I usually get the old bastards out too and add new ones. Someone was in there bc i think these normally would be same color as the block at factory.right?

Question #2

3 of 6 exhaust manifold holes show 3 of 6 exhaust valve stems being a little 'wet' / shiny. Shouldnt they be fully dry and "burnt" out like the other 3 are?
Probably needing a set of new seals in the head for under the shims and buckets.
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  #18  
Old 06-20-2020, 11:33 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Exhaust valve stem seals 3 of 6 look shiny 3 of 6 look dry

Some more pictures...

valve cover definitely leaked constantly. the valve cover gasket was good but the nuts were not properly tightened or not tightened enough

I usually call the manifolds` side/passenger side "the oil side" and I call the driver side of the engine "the diesel side", for a reason but you could also call it the power steering fluid side by the common leaks

A harder brush toothbrush with a somewhat flexible handle, dipped in diesel, works wonders. I plugged the oil hoses and tipped the engine over enough so if anything falls or leaks at all, it wouldnt end up inside the engine through the intake/exhaust holes.
Diesel-dipped towel twisted upon no-lint microfiber towels did the job for me today without spraying chemicals and without getting fluids in.

Finally some visible progress.
Manifolds must be cleaned up tomorrow and I`m planning to disable and shut off the egr holes in the future. On the 744 donor car, the factory EGR syste was STILL IN PLACE as it was installed in factory.. interesting bc I have never seen one of those intact as it was originally installed in the factory. COOL! All parts were present, wiring and all, all joints etc and still connected everywhere and nothing missing..

I did keep BTW everything from underneath the hood, except one thing: the brake booster and the master cylinder. There`s no way I could figure that egr system out again though. and the cars dont need it either. i think..

Other things I decided to remove and keep from the donor td car:

-front struts tubes etc as a unit, springs from the diesel donor car are diesel-specific but I didnt know the rest isnt.

-rear differential and accessories, bolts etc as a unit

-zf22 auto transmission with linkages and bellhousing but not the shifter (according to a pro td volvo person it is diesel specific too)

-some emblems and badges from the diesel car

-a brand new looking nissens radiator, the fan shroud and some rad mounts and the ac fan at the front, the ac system

-various plastic bits behind the grill area

-td relay for the glow system and all wires from underneath the hood for reference (engine harness too and all connectors etc)

-also kept the shaft from between the zf and the rear diff and marked them

-some tranny mount and shaft mounts

-front exhaust pipe that starts at the turbo and connects to the rest of the exhaust (downpipe?)

-UNFORTUNATELY I had no time left (had to repair my own car that towed this stuff home) and later had no good access anymore either, to remove the turbodiesel diesel filler neck unit at the trunk.
That is def a diesel specific thing and I really wanted it but was exhausted and excited and irritated and it got damaged through the struggle working it off. Next time...

-also kept the diesel crossmember from this 1985 car bc it has no cracks for now, mine does have cracks,

-battery cables, battery tray finally I have one in good condition after all these years,

-i brought home the instrument cluster which may be very diesel specific actually. shows 182000 miles.

-volvo toolkit from the trunk and some various interior pieces but not much, it was all gone meaning faded broken ugly and cracked

-the car also donated a left side rear mudflap that mine needed bc a few winters back I chopped mine up with a snowshovel ughh


I am having a hard time removing a connection to separate the ac condenser from the piping that is the drivers side one out of the two that both run on the passenger side to the inside of the car.
That weirdly shaped pipe is so weak and fragile and somehow someone some day really overtightened it. That`s exactly the same ac pipe i broke on mine and have no ac whatsoever. I really need that pipe and must remove it from the condenser.

Ideas on how to do that?

I tried pliers, wrenches, torch etc nothing helped, maybe there is a miracle magic solution of liquids out there?
It may need a soak in some serious chemical to release the bond. it is the pipe that starts at firewall and runs besides the turbo area and arrives to the ac condenser.....there it got stuck.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 08-10-2020 at 12:46 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-21-2020, 12:06 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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And here`s the video that has to be the last video for now of it running until it gets reassembled again.

It is responsive, peppy, starts well without any cranking even when cold, holds rpms and runs smooth on all cylinders, smokes very minimal. I ended up not checking the timing today so we dont know what it is set to...

turbo spools great and engine sounds healthy but time will tell if that`s the case.

In the video there are bad sounds, one is the low pressure inline pump ticking and there is the disconnected piping for the oil cooler behind the intake manifold and it gets hitting on the manifold which is annoying to hear.
Also a loose exhaust clamp is making extra rattleing noise sitting on the end of the pipe

Here`s video from today:

1
https://youtu.be/5PdQMWBxDD0

2
https://youtu.be/1IGnSnBq4K4

Time to sleep.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 06-21-2020 at 12:25 AM. Reason: Pics
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  #20  
Old 06-21-2020, 08:58 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default If I had a sandblaster...wow... Long day here with the d24T

There was some or little progress because the manifolds were soaking in diesel then I had to manually clear up the intake from the oil that was inside. It took a lot of work... the lung cancer is fixed now. I used a strong but flexible handle toothbrush attached to a stick and tried to reach in everywhere through the 8 holes available.

The plan is to machine sand it down later to create a surface that looks nicer and would be much easier to keep clean once the engine gets in a car. The factory could have done a much better job at finishing surfaces on these.
Even inside the cylinder head they left huge mold-chunks and weird edges all over the tunnels. Crazy.

The engine needs to dry before manifolds and gaskets can get back up again...at least I win some time to deal with checking and cleaning the turbo, the oil cooler, intake piping and etc.

I'll I think take off the EGR mushroom and seal the exhaust manifold. I'm just afraid of those 2 studs bc I always managed to either strip the threads or brake them off. Maybe I should leave them alone and deal with it later. Intake dated 02.27.1985.
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Last edited by RedArrow; 07-10-2020 at 09:09 PM.
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