cold start removal

[ngoma]

If the lever does not move rearward when warmed up, the cold start is inop, and has likely failed in the common failure mode, as listed here several times-- failed permanently in the cold starting position. If anything, this should guarantee easier starting, along with the related excessively-high idle RPM after warmup, combined with too much IP timing advance when warm.

Therefore your blue smoke rough (low RPM) startups are likely caused by something else. If indeed this seemed to occur suddenly after the shop installed new injectors, I would start looking at the injectors themselves (new is no guarantee that they work properly, or are set to the correct POP pressure) and/or (as v8volvo explained earlier) the possibility that the shop rotated the IP to access the injectors behind it, thereby knocking the timing off spec.

The Volvo offiicial (and easier) method to manually disable the cold start mechanism is to rotate the collar just forward of the cable end stop clamp. Rotating the collar 90deg allows the end stop to slide forward into it and creates 1/4" - 1/2" of slack in the cable which lets the lever move rearward. The danger in disturbing the cable end stop clamp is the difficulty in later resetting it to a safe position without dedicated shop equipment. All the factory service manuals state multiple times to not disturb that clamp! But I think the original clamp position should have left evidence-- a bend or crimp in the cable or other visible marking that should make it possible to reset it to its former position.

Originally Posted by jpliddy

would you guys trust diesel men they tell me what should be happening and blame it all on cold start device .

No, for reasons stated above. Are they the only shop in your area?

I recommend as your next step: Find a competent technician to 1) Verify the IP timing and adjust if necessary. If problem persists, 2) Test the injectors and set them to correct POP pressure as needed.

What happened to the old injectors?

[745 TurboGreasel]

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OK, with the engine cold, set a wedge in the cold advance lever to stop gap such that it is in the position shown in the picture. Now start the car.

This is how the car will start with a working CS device.

[jpliddy]

hi guys thanks again .
i just wish one of you guys lived near me .
well i have swopped the C.S.stat over and now the cable does move over as the engine gets hot .
well the next part of this job may not be as easy .
reading all the info you have given me so far . i have now got the cable in the none advance position
i still have to set this part up .i will try my best .
i did try to get the end nut in the live position but could not get it to disengage so that i could turn end fitting 90 degrees yes i have undone the machine screw but it just won't pull out far enough .
i think i now understand the theory of all this now regarding the higher idle speed then the stat moves the cam arm into the non advance postion
and then slowing down the idle speed once engine is hot .
o plenty of air bubbles from upper C.S. hose so kept engine running while i topped up with volvo coolant.
so I'm still on the case and will keep you posted

[jpliddy]

hi NGOMA
i read your last post very helpful .the old injectors in the shed now!
regards jim liddy

[745 TurboGreasel]

before you go too far, have look at the fast idle ball stud on the advance arm... look for a track in the dirt where the diesel shop may have moved it.
If it's not been disturbed, set it so you cold gap to the advance arm stop is like it was in your before picture, and you should have about 1400 RPM cold idle(once its engaged).

engine running, internal pressure counteracts internal spring on advance ring, by 2500 RPM, you should be able to pull the advance arm with your pinky finger to engage the CSD.
If the lever is not easier to pull with engine on, pump transfer pressure is probably low.

[jpliddy]

hi 745 turbo greasel
which is the best method to try and engage C.S.device end is it when engine is cold first thing or hot do i need engine running too while i try to perform this task
i forced the cam arm slighty tonight then moved ball stud so idle was about 1000 RPM . then took car for a run when i got back C.S. had released the advance and idle speed was about 850 RPM and gap between ball stud. but cam had not quite travelled back to stop on I.P. so do i need to set C.S. so cam travels right back to I.P. stop plate.
hope i have not made a hash of trying to explain what i have done and need to do .

[745 TurboGreasel]

I do it cold using brute force and a strong pliers, but it will be easiest with the engine hot and running.

I'd back the idle ball stud completely off. and work on the advance, then once that is set to your liking, do the cold idle. There may be a small kink in the cable where the adjuster block used to sit...if so, that is a good starting point(but may be different with the new CSD). Also using your picture from before as a reference probably hows where it should sit when cold.

Yes, the arm should rest on the stop when hot(at or before the lowest point your gauge can hit in normal driving), that is probably more important than any of the other factors.

[jpliddy]

hi
to start with the advance lever should it be able to travel right back till it comes into contact with the stop on the I.P. cam which has the spring loaded although the cam is easy to move . it moves about 30 degrees maximum

[745 TurboGreasel]

Yeah...though the stop is adjustable too...I'm kind of thinking the stop position isn't real important as long as you time the IP after messing with it...but is this a place we can tamper to gain a little bit of total advance range? Something for another discussion.

I don't know why my pics took a day or two to show up in photobucket, but they are here, so....
this one is engaged, in the cold position, and some n00b has backed the throttle bump all the way off to compensate, so I'll assume it isn't working. But the advance arm is where it ought to be on a cold start.

putting my thumb against the idle ball and forefinger on the throttle spool bracket, I can pus it forward enough to pull the disengaement block away form the pump, rotate the slot thing 90*, and let the block fall into it....and reverse. twisting the able away from the pump is easier than trying to do a straight pull.


Disengaged, and you can see a little ring where someone has tampered with the stop setting. Maybe the stop is to keep the lever return spring from putting wear on the roller ring connection? I don't know much about this pump, it was on a car I had when the previous owner got it, he said it ran but leaked(as did the one he'd replaced it with).

I'd add a pic of one in the warm position, but none of mine go there.

[jpliddy]

thanks for photos TURBO GREASEL .
i have now got the C.S. device enabled but had to slacken both nuts of to make it work . i have got some advanced timing now when cold and it backs of a little when warm .i have moved throttle ball forward quite a bit and get 1000 .r.p.m. till C.S. backs off then it idles about 850 RPM .
not posted info as i had another issue with car .
OIL PRESURE SWITCH failed and lost some oil got a new one and replaced it my self .
first i thought it was sump gasket as i hard some weeping on other side last year . but may have made a mistake this time i tightened up sump bolts to the max i could and now monitoring area under .OIL PRESURE SWITCH as it is not dry yet i hope its oil from switch failure and not me tightening those sump nuts