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  #31  
Old 02-24-2012, 06:22 AM
Volvoist Volvoist is offline
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Nope, no EGT gauge. No black smoke, or really any smoke for that matter. Was a very clean running D24.

As for gelling, I think it depends on what the biodiesel is made out of. Different oils gel at different temperatures, right? Mine would cloud up around 25ºF and gel around 18ºF roughly. I was careful. I'd keep it in my garage with a heater on very cold nights or run some amount of diesel in the tank along with some PS white bottle anti-gel. Never had any issue.
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  #32  
Old 02-24-2012, 06:26 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anders View Post
V8volvo- You seem to be well informed on this biodiesel, so at what point does the B99 gel at? Was that bad chemistry for the B99 we had or was the guy that told us that it was safe to 20 degrees full of it?
I believe it is down to whatever the Biodiesel is made out of. Bio based on Rapseed will have the lowest gel point, and should be liquid at temps below 0C, maybe lower. Soy and Sunflower have slightly higher gel points but I would think should still be liquid 0-10C! There are a lot of home-brew bio makers here in UK (check http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk) and most of those run it all year round (including minus temps blended with winteriser, pump diesel, or even unleaded) - bear in mind that here in UK we are VERY lucky to get brief temps of 30C. If the Bio is made with Palm Oil that could explain it - Palm Oil is solid at room temps, so creates a Bio that gels at higher temps.... BUT, I believe if made well it's Bio should still be liquid at 10C? Maybe just a bad batch with soaps/HMPE's?

Edit - are you talking degrees C or degrees F?
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  #33  
Old 02-24-2012, 08:52 AM
anders anders is offline
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My previous post was in Fahrenheit. So around 0 Degrees Celsius it was butter.
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  #34  
Old 11-09-2013, 06:30 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Link to BEST d24t plugs, anyone?

Ian2000t, I`ve read it somewhere on another forum (vegetableoildiesel.co.uk) that you were hunting for the best glow plugs for your `90 760 diesel.
NY Winter is approaching, I have no issues at all but It`s good to have spares... (but I didn`t know that Eb@y has that many fakes advertised.)
Which ones did you end up choosing? (I can see their part numbers are not the same.):
A,
http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/glow-...46-glp085.html
B,
http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/glow-...0-201-032.html

In another thread 745TG suggested using Duraterm plugs, general info here
http://www.boschautoparts.com/BAP_Te...ugTechGd08.pdf

Last edited by RedArrow; 11-09-2013 at 06:32 PM.
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  #35  
Old 12-27-2020, 01:36 AM
jpliddy jpliddy is offline
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Default glow plugs

hi all just changed front 3 plugs on my D24 as been in 5 years i will l change the back 3
as soon as i get a nice dry day here in staffordshire /England .
it may be a bit more tricky being 5 years older now . done it 3 times over the last 20 years of ownership . just need some sun and plenty of tea served up!!!!
im using the bosch brand this time . with a smear of copper grease on the threads .do you agree ?
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  #36  
Old 12-27-2020, 09:32 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default The world-infamous d24 glowplug job , yaaaa :)

Bosch Duratherm (or spelled Duraterm?) 80010 is the best glowplug for these.

It is hard to do only for the very first time, even with good tea served but later many dieselbrickers manage relatively quickly with all 6... only after `learning` what exact kind of (btw simple) tools to have.



A few small but important things come to my mind.

Be careful to not use too much of the antiseize on the glowplug threads.
Do not overtighten the glowplugs into the head.
Maybe redo the insulation on the old buss bars that connect the plugs.
Try to not disturb the fuel hard lines at all.
Maybe use new nuts for the glowplugs.
Don`t plug the holes with anything as you may forget it in the glowplug holes or it could fall in.
TEST the plugs before installing them, they should `light up` within 5-7seconds and glow completely red within 9secs at the max esp in UK weather .
Use any kind of random two pieces of wires you may find (proper gauge) and test your new glowplugs away from the car on any 12v battery, one by one. Nothing is worse than doing stuff twice due to a small mistake or a factory failure in a plug. The whole World is made in Ch.na.

Prepare as many different types, sizes, and shapes of 8mm wrenches and various sockets for the job to make it `easy` (easier).
Some flexy etc tricky wrench gadgets make it easy. I recall sizes of 10, 11 and 12 mm tools.

Keep the buss bar on the rearest glowplug but do loosen the outer nut on it first. Use loose buss bar to fish the #6 glowplug out and through.

Good time to check the wiring that goes to the rear of the head, as well. On my engines it was usually a brown wire. It monitors temps over there and triggers a fulltime glow if it thinks the engine isnt warm enough. Not so good for the glowplug system if it slippes off. On some cars, this wire had slipped off from that pin on the rear of the cyl head, so it is a good idea to check it... especially because you will be tinkering near there anyway.. for quite some time

Last edited by RedArrow; 12-27-2020 at 09:42 PM.
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  #37  
Old 12-28-2020, 04:04 AM
jpliddy jpliddy is offline
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Default glow plugs

thanks for the advice Red Arrow .im got the glow plugs months ago not expensive
but the code on box reads DURA TERM , 002 then 0 250 201 032-EAF
so will have to use them . i too have managed this job with out removing any fuel lines . but i did remove the intercooler pipE and EGR VALVE and pipes when i tackled no 5 and 6 , plugs i got a thick carpet and climbed onto of engine to get comfortable . no rushing . . the more advice the better for this job .
ive been noticing a good puff of smoke on start up but its gone within seconds
using less than a litre of oil at 5000 mile oil change . some one here said that is acceptable ,!
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