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  #31  
Old 02-26-2020, 02:08 PM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle: 1989 760 gle turbo diesel
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Talked to giles, and he was saying that it had to have happened while shipping, and it just got worst and than cracked. Looking for a nee one to replace.
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  #32  
Old 02-27-2020, 11:30 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Location: Livingston, MT
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Did Giles have a replacement one he could sell you? If not, Anders probably has some core pumps or I will look around and see if I have one. If I do, you are welcome to have it.

It sounds like you want to fix this fuel drip before trying to start the engine or do anything else. That's understandable. But we're trying to make sure you realize that this cracked piece is probably not related to the engine's ability (or inability) to operate.

Are you thinking that replacing this part is going to be the step that gets the engine running again? Or just want to get this done before proceeding further with diagnostics?
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86 745 D24T/ZF 340k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 145k
93 Toyota 4x4 pickup 1.9 TDI swapped
04 Audi Allroad 2.0 TDI swap in progress
02 F250 SD 5.4/4R100
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  #33  
Old 02-27-2020, 02:23 PM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Giles hasn't gotten back yet but hes looking for one. If anyone has that part, I would greatly appreciate it. The crack it leaking like crazy, going to fix this than try and start.
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  #34  
Old 02-28-2020, 07:35 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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I found a spare one. Yours for the price of shipping. PM me your address and I'll mail it to you this weekend.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 340k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 145k
93 Toyota 4x4 pickup 1.9 TDI swapped
04 Audi Allroad 2.0 TDI swap in progress
02 F250 SD 5.4/4R100
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  #35  
Old 02-29-2020, 10:51 PM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Vehicle: 1989 760 gle turbo diesel
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Thank you V8volvo your coming in for the win! Cheers
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  #36  
Old 03-02-2020, 11:31 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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It went out in the mail to you this morning. This is a used part off an old pump that sat for a long time so I recommend giving it a very thorough cleaning before installing. Ultrasonic cleaning would be best, but if not, I would soak it in diesel, biodiesel, or another good non-etching solvent for a few days, clean it carefully with a soft metal brush, and blow it out well with compressed air before installing.

Be careful when you remove the solenoid housing to ensure that the spring and shims located behind it do not fall out. The spring and shims set preload on the dynamic advance piston in the bottom of the IP, and if it is not put back together exactly the same way, it will result in excessive timing advance at high RPM. That will damage the headgasket and eventually the rest of the engine. Technically the dynamic advance setting should really be checked with the new housing in place, and reset if necessary by changing the shim thickness, since it was originally calibrated with your old housing, but it will probably be close enough to be OK, as long as you retain all the shims that are there now.

Also make sure when you swap the actual altitude compensation solenoid over from your current housing, that the plunger and spring and O-ring for the solenoid don't fall out and are all installed in the new housing the same way they came out of the old. And of course ensure that the wire to the solenoid is plugged in and getting power when the key is turned on.

Finally, note that EXTREME clean working conditions are REQUIRED whenever opening the injection pump. Clean all around the area before attempting disassembly using whatever means necessary (steam cleaner, compressed air, brushes, carb cleaner, etc) to ensure no grit or foreign materials get inside. Any contamination can instantly destroy the injection pump and injectors, and in a worst case scenario can jam the internals of the pump at some point later on and cause a runaway situation that usually ends with total catastrophic destruction of the engine and sometimes with a car accident and injuries as well. If ANY foreign material gets inside, then you get to take the pump off the engine and send it back out to a professional rebuilder to get COMPLETELY disassembled and cleaned and calibrated again!

Those are the precautions. Internal injection pump work involves risk, so I recommend reading carefully on this site and making sure the cautions all make sense to you before taking anything apart. Let us know if you run into any questions as you tackle this.

Shipping cost was USD $12.55. No charge for the part, but perhaps you would like to make a donation to support the forum instead as a way of reciprocating the assistance folks here have provided. Info on how to do that here if you wish: https://d24t.com/showthread.php?p=13328#post13328

Let us know how it goes when you attempt starting the engine after you get this installed and prime the pump and lines again.
__________________
86 745 D24T/ZF 340k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 145k
93 Toyota 4x4 pickup 1.9 TDI swapped
04 Audi Allroad 2.0 TDI swap in progress
02 F250 SD 5.4/4R100
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  #37  
Old 03-24-2020, 04:46 PM
Foghorn117 Foghorn117 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle: 1989 760 gle turbo diesel
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Now, with everything put back on the pump, itd now not sending fuel to the injectors. I have no idea why. Any suggestions
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2020, 07:58 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Prime the IP (fill it) by pulling vacuum from the OUT bolt until pure fuel is coming out, no bubbles. Use Mity Vac or similar.

That's all I have for you, not knowing exactly what you did to the IP.
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