2.0TD into 1987 VW Quantum Syncro Wagon

[Nevadan]

Here's the original fuel pump system with the rubber sleeve that fits around the pump and is then submerged into the tank with the screen below the pump.



Original pump number. These are still available.

[Nevadan]

These two show the modifications after removing the pump, I made a 1" thick polyethelyne disk to hold down the strainer screen, added some weight with the large bolts with two of the bolt heads becoming the part that the top of the old fuel filter base holds down so the entire new piece is held in place with the supply hose drawing fuel from the screened area.





Engine bay plumbing





One way check valve under the body



Modified fuel filler neck

[ngoma]

Looks good. No galvanized, right? Galvanized doesn't play well w/ diesel.

Low drag check valve?

[RedArrow]

Nevadan,
that TD 5cylinder Audi sounds awesome in the old link. (White car)

In Europe they were called the AUDI 100. Well known nickname was and still is: `The Cigar Audi`. I guess because of the look/length.

Very comfortable and reliable cars (esp that time esp in Europe).
I can recognize that sound blindfolded, in a heartbeat. In Europe they are still often seen on the road as daily drivers. Not just the Cigar Audi but the also another common Audi car: the mid-80s boxy little brother that we know as the AUDI 80.
My dad had one of those 1.6 gassers and a 5cyl diesel too.

Was it you looking to build a plug-in type (made in Canada for VWs) diesel block heater into your new diesel build Audi project?? or did I read it elsewhere that someone was looking for one? Still?

I`m glad to give you one if you cover the shipping fees from zip 07208.

You can PM me here via the forum.

[Nevadan]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Looks good. No galvanized, right? Galvanized doesn't play well w/ diesel.

Low drag check valve?

Right, no galvanized. That's all the original steel line, just re-bent to fit the new line routing. I did use one 3/8" diameter piece of Ni-Cop, a nickel copper tubing, to reduce back down from the 3/8" one way valve. I'll replace it with steel tubing shortly.

It seems like a very low drag check valve, just a brass ball within that fitting, it may not be enough to prevent backflow.

[Nevadan]

So this battery relocation and cable routing has taken MUCH longer than I thought.

Custom built battery tray.



Original spare tire location.



In place

[Nevadan]

Each time I do a portion of this engine conversion I'm amazed at the original engineering; what seems so simple when making repairs becomes a thought provoking process when redesigning the system. It took a long time to design and route the cables. I put a fuse on the ground side, right before the ground to body below the fuse. I then ran the cable to the engine bay to make a good ground for the starter.



From the interior, down through the body and along the rear wheel well.



Under the body



Up into the engine bay

[Nevadan]

This required more thought since I can't have any contact, ever, between the cable and ground. I got two cables from two different BMW's which had trunk mounted batteries, "Double Ought" size. This will go up the body on the passenger side, opposite the ground cable, to a junction box or bus bar near the alternator and starter.

Rear deck routing.



From the interior, under the body, ready to route along the wheel well. The BMW cable had a good 90 degree plastic fitting to make the bend; I built an aluminum bracket to hold it in position.



Will get most of the posative cable routed tomorrow, waiting on some rubber insulated strapping which should arrive in two days to finish the project.

[RedArrow]

All that progress is amazing and great to see!

[Nevadan]

2 Ought Brundy cable splice



In place



Around the front fender, behind the plastic fenderwell protector.



And finally to the bus-bar, completely oversized.