2.0TD into 1987 VW Quantum Syncro Wagon

[v8volvo]

That is interesting. There are quite a few other engines that use this style of bucket and shim valvetrain system, so maybe someone's warehouse was stocked incorrectly and had the shims mixed up with different diameters for different engines. One example is the Volvo "redblock" 4-cylinder gas engines, which use shims similar to the VW engines, but might be of a larger size (bigger valves, bore spacing etc). I wonder if the ones you got could be for those engines?

I have a bunch of the thicker shims in my valve adjustment kit. Might even have a few above 4.00. If you end up having trouble getting hold of the right stuff let me know and I would be happy to send you some. I don't think I have ever used anything above 3.90 myself. More often I have faced the opposite problem, needing to find especially thin shims (like under 3.00), rather than thick ones, since as the engines wear the valve clearance usually decreases (wear on the valve seats and sealing faces). I think the only time the really thick ones are needed is in a case like yours where a valve stem has been ground and/or new seats are installed during a rebuild, causing the clearance to increase.

[Nevadan]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

That is interesting. There are quite a few other engines that use this style of bucket and shim valvetrain system, so maybe someone's warehouse was stocked incorrectly and had the shims mixed up with different diameters for different engines. One example is the Volvo "redblock" 4-cylinder gas engines, which use shims similar to the VW engines, but might be of a larger size (bigger valves, bore spacing etc). I wonder if the ones you got could be for those engines?

I have a bunch of the thicker shims in my valve adjustment kit. Might even have a few above 4.00. If you end up having trouble getting hold of the right stuff let me know and I would be happy to send you some. I don't think I have ever used anything above 3.90 myself. More often I have faced the opposite problem, needing to find especially thin shims (like under 3.00), rather than thick ones, since as the engines wear the valve clearance usually decreases (wear on the valve seats and sealing faces). I think the only time the really thick ones are needed is in a case like yours where a valve stem has been ground and/or new seats are installed during a rebuild, causing the clearance to increase.

I've got some thick ones coming from another supplier but if they're incorrect I'll let you know.

[Nevadan]

I swapped oil pans after some consideration, the one from the 2.2 gas engine has less capacity than the 2.0, had to swap oil pickup tubes as well. You can see the depth is about 3/4 of an inch shorter. In the second picture you can see how there's a portion of the 2.2 pan that's stamped to accept the radiator. In the VW setup the radiator sits vertical and hangs down next to the pan, on the Audi 2.0 it sits horizontal. The 2.2 pan was also rusted pretty thin and needed to be changed anyway. I should gain oil capacity since I'll be using a larger oil cooler and there's room for a much larger filter.

[Nevadan]

I had to splice the 90 bend from the 2.2 engine on the end of the 2.0 pipe, welded it first then brazed over the top to insure it sealed and provided a little more semi-flexible strength.

[Nevadan]

First major problem.

So the crankshaft ends for the pilot bearing are different. The inner hole on the 2.0 crank is to small to receive the tranny shaft, it's also to small to bore it out to receive the needle pilot bearing.

I'm considering just boring it out to 19mm (the shaft is 18mm) and stuffing some anti-seize in there.

I don't want to disassemble everything to have it properly machined to receive a bushing or bearing.

Any thoughts?



2.2 crank


2.0 crank


Input shaft and 2.2 pilot bearing

[Nevadan]

For my reference.

I can get a 3/4 bit and just drill the end of the crankshaft.

I know the bearing is necessary for alignment but the only time it's spinning on the shaft is when the clutch is disengaged. I can just keep that to a minimum, even at a stoplight I can put it in neutral and let out the clutch.

The transmission input shaft is pretty stable so if there's only 1mm play at the crankshaft end I don't think it will snap from being off-center. Again, any thoughts?

ONe other possibility is the end of the 2.0 crankshaft appears to be pressed in. Maybe I could pull that out and have it machined. I'll check on that today. On the 2.2 crankshaft it appears to be all one machined piece.

[v8volvo]

That is very surprising, since from everything I have seen, that same open needle pilot bearing is used on pretty much every M/T 5cyl Audi product (as well as the D24 and D24T). I don't think there were different transmission input shaft sizes used, just the one that fits the ID of that bearing. And I would definitely guess you would want to have a real bearing in there, for the long term health of the transmission.

I bet that 2.0TD might have originally had an automatic transmission behind it, and what you are looking at is actually just a pressed-in sleeve to reduce the diameter for the nose of the automatic's torque converter. I think I see a little space behind it in the crank recess. Maybe worth trying to pull that sleeve out of the end of the crank before anything else? A regular blind hole / pilot bearing puller seems like it would work. I bet you will find that it slides out of there and then what's left is exactly the same as the gasser crank, and it accepts the same 2.2 pilot bearing.

If not, then maybe you could bore that enough to at least get a skinny Oilite oil-impregnated bronze bushing in there? That's what I did on my Toyota TDI swap. It's not an ideal solution like a real bearing would be, but it works just fine, no problem with drag at the interface to create any difficulty when engaging gear from a stop, and it gives enough support so that the input shaft bearing in the transmission doesn't get beaten up. It might not last 500,000 miles of city driving, but as you say, the only time there is significant speed differential between the crankshaft and the input shaft (to potentially wear that bushing) is when the trans is in gear with the clutch disengaged. It's easy to minimize that situation with driving habits, and besides, it is not a common situation anyway except for in intensive stop-and-go city operation.

[Nevadan]

Looking at it in person again, that pressed in iron bushing should come out; I took my inner bearing puller home so will do it another day.

It’s 30mm od and the standard Volvo/VAG needle bearing is 24mm od so I’ll see if I can find a bearing 30mm X 18mm that will press in there, or, as you said, a bronze bushing, same size. I like the bushing idea because the tranny shaft doesn’t need to be pressed in. I’ve seen bushings before, in a stock setup, don’t recall where, but I know they work.

It was an automatic!

I’ve got plenty of other work to do so the wait causes no harm.

[Nevadan]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

I bet that 2.0TD might have originally had an automatic transmission behind it, and what you are looking at is actually just a pressed-in sleeve to reduce the diameter for the nose of the automatic's torque converter. I think I see a little space behind it in the crank recess. Maybe worth trying to pull that sleeve out of the end of the crank before anything else? A regular blind hole / pilot bearing puller seems like it would work. I bet you will find that it slides out of there and then what's left is exactly the same as the gasser crank, and it accepts the same 2.2 pilot bearing.
.

You're exactly right, once I pulled that steel bushing there's a 24mm hole that perfectly fits the pilot bearing. The 30mm diameter of the steel bushing was just the shoulder sticking out.

Pilot bearing on top, shouldered bushing on the bottom, 24mm hole in the crankshaft behind.

Will continue work tomorrow on the fuel supply and return lines and possibly start the cooling fan relay wiring.

[Nevadan]

I did find some correct 31mm diameter shims from a local machine shop. There are also some used complete kits available on eBay and from partsplaceinc here: https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-val...-kit-3522.html

So...problem solved.