d24+t?

[T0eCutter]

Hi you skilled people !

I own a 1982 Volvo 240 original diesel that runs just fine no blowby, no major oil consumption starts cold etc.

I have a chance to add "exhaust+turbo+intake+oilfilter hub+all hoses" taken from a 740 d24t.

Will this work out ok with out changing the dieselpump and injectors? (they are not included in the package). Can I just turn up the NA dieselpump alittle to add enough diesel?

I am told I have to arange and drill a return hole in the 240 d24 oilpan for the turbo returning oil. Is it anything more I should prep for ?

The low end torque is good enough its just that I would like some extra power going from 50km/t to 100km/t and of cource the sound that a turbo fan will add

Best Regards

[ngoma]

Yes adding the turbo will completely change the driving experience. Including what you are wanting it to do.

Really should try to get the IP with the LDA (the flying saucer shaped device on top).

The LDA allows the IP to be set for more fuel (required during turbo boost condition) to generate more power under boost conditions, but contrary to popular opinion, the LDA cuts the extra fuel in all conditions except when under turbo boost, incrementally ramping up the fueling as boost increases. This helps overall fuel economy, cuts excessive soot and emissions, and probably keeps the motor oil from becoming overloaded with soot.

With turbo but no LDA, in order to see increased performance from the added turbo, you will have to turn up the fueling which will generate loads of black soot in all conditions except under high turbo boost/ high RPM condition.

This paper talks about the LDA, a little less than 1/4 the way down the page:
The 4-and 5-Cylinder Turbocharged Diesel Engines for Volkswagen and Audi

That same paper shows the injectors are the same between the NA and +T engines, the difference is the POP settings, 155 bar for the turbo, compared to 130 bar for NA.

The oil pan mod is talked about in these forums.

Many have used a simple cone-type air filter because the original air filter box no longer fits.

[T0eCutter]

Hi Ngoma

Thank you so much for the information . You clearly made me hezitate if going turbo with out the correct IP is such a smart move, unless there is som in between setting with the fueling amount that makes it not soot so much but still adds som power over 2500 rpm?

Would the 155bar vs 130bar injectors make it burn the diesel at incorrect timing when the turbo boost comes on also ?

Else it almoust sound like get a complete d24t instead since its other oilpump/exaustvalves/pistons etc

Best Regards

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by T0eCutter

...unless there is som in between setting with the fueling amount that makes it not soot so much but still adds som power over 2500 rpm?

Sorry, I don't know, never tried it.

Originally Posted by T0eCutter

Would the 155bar vs 130bar injectors make it burn the diesel at incorrect timing when the turbo boost comes on also ?

Should be fine by setting static IP timing to the international spec. of ~.90mm.

Originally Posted by T0eCutter

Else it almoust sound like get a complete d24t instead since its other oilpump/exaustvalves/pistons etc

Not true at all. Many have +T a NA engine with happy results. Why don't you start putting it together with a plan to obtain a turbo IP in the near future?

[T0eCutter]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Sorry, I don't know, never tried it.


Should be fine by setting static IP timing to the international spec. of ~.90mm.


Not true at all. Many have +T a NA engine with happy results. Why don't you start putting it together with a plan to obtain a turbo IP in the near future?

Okidoki ill try to gather the parts did you happen to remember where/if I could find pictures on the oilpan/oilreturn hole? I hope this can be drilled with the oilpan and engine in the car....

Best Regards

[ngoma]

There's got to be some photos of a modified oil pan somewhere on this site. You can probably find them better than me, being more motivated.

Doesn't it require some welding? Anyway, drilling into an engine with everything bolted together is not such a good idea. How do you guarantee metal shavings do not fall in?