#1
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Some help locating TDC
I need to remove the head on the 760, I dont have any access to any specialist tools.
I cant find any timing marks on the crankshaft pulley at the front. The only timing marks I 'think' I can find are on the back of the engine, and the fuel pump. Anything down below I can use as a reference to set it at TDC? I cant find the line on the guard of the pump belt, But there is a notch on the pulley that lines up with this part of the guard... And is this the correct position for the pump timing? |
#2
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However, in the meantime if you just want to get it generally close to TDC to disassemble and get the tools only later on when you're putting it back together, using the mark on the pump is a good method. Line up the sprocket notch with the notch on the pump housing (not the notch on the pump mounting bracket that has paint on it in your photo -- the pump notch is on the ear of the pump, behind the fuel hose in the photo), and you're there, close enough for pulling it apart.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#3
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Thanks, I think I'll get it towed down to a garage once the heads back on, they managed to change the belts with no issues.
I'm a bit dubious about doing the timing myself. Last edited by monkeh; 06-08-2016 at 10:16 AM. |
#4
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What about the flywheel mark?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#5
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Works, but much harder to find, and possible to get it set to TDC 180* off unless using a cam reference as well. (Looks like the valve cover is removed so that would be an option though.) For finding TDC to an approximate degree for disassembly I think using the IP reference is fine and easier, precision of the crank method doesn't hurt but it's not necessary.
It is required for setting timing upon reassembly though.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#6
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You will want to ensure that they have the correct tools for putting proper torque on the front crankshaft dampener bolt though. Even if they have the skills and *enough* of the tools to set timing correctly (this can be done with the same stuff that works on diesel VWs and anything with a Bosch rotary pump, very common), and are able to get it all timed and running perfectly as they did before, that is all only temporary if the front bolt isn't done right, which *cannot* be done with anything other than the correct special tools (or some kind of homemade variant built to do the exact same thing). Insufficient torque on this bolt inevitably leads to slipped timing and a wrecked motor. Numerous examples of this scenario just on this board, in the few hundred folks who are here. It's one of the most common killers of these engines due to the absolute necessity of the tools, but it is very easily avoided. Best bet if you can do it is likely to get your hands on the tools -- if you've got the know-how to swap the head you will certainly have no trouble doing the timing yourself once you have the needed equipment, and then you will know for sure that it is done right and save some $. Plenty of folks here have them and are willing to loan, or overseas where you are, you can probably get them from other sources too. Or if you'd rather skip the timing procedure, and want to have it done elsewhere, make sure the folks you use have the needed tools. If they don't, get the tools and provide them for their use, or find someone else who has them. Added hassle but given the work you are about to put in, you don't want to let one bolt put the whole motor at risk.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k Last edited by v8volvo; 06-08-2016 at 01:43 PM. |
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