Cold Start Waxstat

[jpliddy]

hi v8 volvo
the old injectors had done 211000 miles so got genuine off ebay .
well the diesel man may have done something but just now don't know .
they have the car tonight to see symptoms tomorrow .
i have a second hand cold start device .
put it in hot water and the centre plunger moved out . so could use it if needed.
I'm thinking more diesel man may have done something but can't be sure just now.
i will post results tomorrow

[Boots]

V8Volvo - Yeah, agree about the smoke colour. The black/white/blue distinction gets a bit blurry on older engines!

jpliddy - All I can add to V8Volvo's good advice is that if they removed the coolant pipework to the cold start for better access to the injectors, there could be an airlock in the circuit. Might be worth a bleed?

[jpliddy]

thank you V8 and BOOTS for your valued comments.
took car back to diesel men .
they said cold start had been disconnected i don't think i did it . but i was trying to see what was going on with the C.S, device i will see in the morning if blue smoke is still present like you both said there could be other issues causing this problem if it still exists .

[jpliddy]

hi just to say thanks for all of the comments you have said .
i will keep you informed of any progress

[ngoma]

Any updates jpliddy?

[jpliddy]

hi all
well its not looking to good at the moment . diesel engineers had car let saturday when engine was cold they did a adjustment to cold start device so they said . well blue smoke has all but gone on start up . but still no increase in tick over when engine is cold infact its only 700ish rpm then when warm it goes up to 900 ish rpm . i have also noticed when i accelerate from cold there is a slight lull as if fuel cable might not respond straight away. the cable is not tight but not very slack either . i am loosing faith in diesel men so may have to look else where . i spoke to them tonight and the coment was we don't get these cars in much to work on . but they have some older experienced chaps . it seems they are not interested some how . perhaps its me . but engine is not right on start up for sure .
WHAT DO YOU GUYS HAVE ENGINE IDLE SPEED AT COL AND THEN AT WARM ENGINE?

[745 TurboGreasel]

In 4 pumps and 2 engines, I have never had a working cold start, and it idles wherever I've set it to.
My 1.6 had a cable operated cold start, and I never used that either.

FWIW, at idle, unplugging the altitude compensator should accomplish the same advance as the cold start, and the idle setting is easily accomplished with the oll right foot.

[Boots]

Both the hot and cold idle speeds are adjustable. (If the CS wax capsule, coolant supply and operating cable/springs are all ok.)

When the engine is fully warm, the idle speed should be controlled by the set screw on the side of the pump nearest the engine. This screw bears on a tab on the throttle spindle lever, setting the point to which the throttle spindle can return to under spring tension and thus the idle speed. I found my engine to be happiest with a warm idle of 800 - 850 rpm.

When the engine is cold, the idle speed is determined by another tab on the throttle spindle lever, on the side of the pump furthest from the engine. A ball stud attached to the cold start lever bears on this tab and thus raises the idle speed. The position of the ball stud in relation to the CS lever can be adjusted as it is bolted into a slot. This adjustment sets the cold idle speed. As the engine warms up, the CS lever and thus the ball stud move away from the tab on the spindle lever until they don't touch at all. When fully warm, my engine had around a 1 mm gap between the ball stud and the tab. The cold idle at this setting was around 1100 rpm.

Diagram of the CS parts:

[jpliddy]

thanks for the info BOOTS . what bothers me is the cold start cable which passes through a cam lever which is set into the pump will not move either way when hot or cold as we know it would not move in the cold postion . but the was stat should push out thus enabling this cam lever to have some movement when engine is hot . have i got that right . .i am trying to locate someone who is familiar with this set up and see whats going on or not going on.

[Boots]

No, you're not on quite the right track there. The mechanism is extremely stiff and won't appear 'free to move' under any normal conditions.

The return springs are really hefty and so always hold the mechanism against the capsule.

The total travel of the rod and cable connected to the capsule from cold to hot should be a good 10-15mm so you can fairly easily see it working...

Can you get any photos of the area so I can see if I can spot anything out of place?