d24t parts

[adamdrives]

Looking for:
manual throttle spool
cruise control module (or whatever hardware is necessary to make cruise work, I can figure out wiring/relays)
altitude compensation switch (two spade connector unmarked box to left of GP relay)

Thanks! Located in 10977 NY

[R.Mojica]

I have a pile of parts that I got with that 86 wagon. ill look and see what I have.

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by adamdrives

Looking for:
manual throttle spool

Explain a little more here, by manual you mean for manual trans? The throttle spools are the same for manual/automatic but different for w/cruise and without. Needing to replace a failing part or looking for the parts to add cruise?

Originally Posted by adamdrives

cruise control module (or whatever hardware is necessary to make cruise work, I can figure out wiring/relays)

These are shared with gas cars except for the cruise servo/cable/spool parts on the IP itself, your best bet may be to find a complete JY car or someone who's parting and get all the pieces together (vacuum pump under the hood, control unit and pedal switch/vacuum valves under dash, control stalk).

Originally Posted by adamdrives

altitude compensation switch (two spade connector unmarked box to left of GP relay)

Have a few of these but I would have to dig for them which would take a while. In the meantime, if the switch is broken off the body which is common, you can jumper the two wires together, I sometimes do this and remove the switch completely, along with the EGR control relay next to it on that bracket, and get rid of the whole bracket to clean it up. With some additional static timing advance the function doesn't help and if it fails you get excessive advance and resulting problems. Sometimes easiest to can the whole system unless you're trying to keep it factory original. If so, all yours.

[adamdrives]

Originally Posted by R.Mojica

I have a pile of parts that I got with that 86 wagon. ill look and see what I have.

Thanks

Originally Posted by v8volvo

The throttle spools are the same for manual/automatic but different for w/cruise and without.

These are shared with gas cars except for the cruise servo/cable/spool parts on the IP itself

if the switch is broken off the body which is common, you can jumper the two wires together, I sometimes do this and remove the switch completely, along with the EGR control relay next to it on that bracket, and get rid of the whole bracket to clean it up. With some additional static timing advance the function doesn't help and if it fails you get excessive advance and resulting problems. Sometimes easiest to can the whole system unless you're trying to keep it factory original. If so, all yours.

Thanks for the reply. I was under the impression the auto and manual spools were different, I guess I have the CC unit. I believe it does have the appropriate bracket on the pump. Mine has too much slack in the cable even with the cable fully adjusted out which is why I assumed it was the wrong type of spool. This car was also manual swapped at some point.

I would rather replace the switch, but good to know it can be gotten rid of. Sometimes I find the car idling rough and have to play with the spades on that switch, which helps it clear up. So, if you have one I'd like to replace it.

[v8volvo]

The excessive slack in the cable is usually due to the ball stud on the throttle arm being in an incorrect position, or the linkage rod between the spool assembly and the throttle arm is adjusted too long. The greenbook gives a good procedure on how to dial this in. If you don't find it, we can attempt an explanation here.

With the altitude switch, if fooling with those connections makes a noticeable difference in the way it runs, you want to bypass it for now, since it sounds like you've got some uncontrolled timing changes happening. Longer term leaving it that way or replace with a tested good switch both work. Happy to send you one in May when I will be in the location where those spares are stored.

[adamdrives]

Thanks for the reply. The first step in adjusting the throttle afaik is to tighten the cable up until there is no slack. I did mess with the ball stud to try to get full travel of the throttle arm so I will look back into that and see if I can't get less slack in the cable.

[v8volvo]

See the attached instructions.

These steps explain it well. The bottom line is that you want the high and low stops to be determined by the adjustment screws on the pump, not by the limits of the spool's rotation or the cable/pedal travel. You can achieve this using this procedure or whatever other methods work for you, but once it's done you should end up with minimal slack in the cable and reach low idle and full throttle stops on the pump without the spool or cable interfering. Makes a notable difference in driving characteristics to have it set right.

Note that in step AX8 you want to adjust the position of the ball stud on the throttle arm, not the linkage rod's threaded adjustment.

May move this discussion to a new thread and out of the FS section if no problem for you.

[adamdrives]

Yes, that is the greenbook procedure I was referring to. Do you think it's still possible to set correctly when the cable cannot be made taught (step 1)

I will have to try again. Difficult to wrap my head around steps without the car in front of me.

[adamdrives]

Thanks for that explanation. I will have to give it a shot again as the stops on the spool are acting as the rev limiter and idle stops, but after going through the procedure a few times I now have a good idea of how it works. I made the mistake of setting the fast idle in neutral, which is not the same as driving. By the time I had gotten it back to where it should be I had run out of light.

[adamdrives]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

Have a few of these but I would have to dig for them which would take a while. In the meantime, if the switch is broken off the body which is common, you can jumper the two wires together, I sometimes do this and remove the switch completely, along with the EGR control relay next to it on that bracket, and get rid of the whole bracket to clean it up. With some additional static timing advance the function doesn't help and if it fails you get excessive advance and resulting problems. Sometimes easiest to can the whole system unless you're trying to keep it factory original. If so, all yours.

I think I will try jumpering the wires. The switch seems to be right where I rest my elbow doing any work on the pump, poor thing has taken a beating.

I was able to properly adjust the throttle and it has picked up some responsiveness on the low end. Having the throttle stop on the fast idle screw is key, if not you're never opening the pump all the way. Thanks for that post.