New member, new car 83 245 GL with d24 4 speed manual

[GWebie23]

Thanks v8volvo!

It is very clean, supposedly the previous owner parked it because of a bad brake line. However I did receive it with paperwork having a new head installed not too long before it was parked. It hasn’t ran for 20 years, I do suspect that is could be 180 out or off on timing on the injection pump because the previous owner handed me a set of use glow plugs. So I guess I’ll pull all the glow plugs and ohm them out and see from there but I don’t think it’s that because when cranking with electric fuel pump and a good 30 seconds which I generally never like to crank that long... the upper radiator hose was getting warm... indicating to me the block was warm enough to fire... so not sure but I’ll check plugs and about to order the dial indicator adapter for the injection pump. Still would like to check valve shims if I can find the tool.

[GWebie23]

Also I know he over heated it in the past to get the head put on, no signs of bad head gasket, also changed oil, and filter and even gave her a shot of ether to see if she would kick and not even a fire with the ether just stumbles like she’s about to kick and then slows down like I’m running out of cranking apps

[v8volvo]

Definitely don't want to use ether ever in these engines. Not even just a whiff of it. ESPECIALLY if the glow plugs are lit!!! I have a collection of shattered glow plugs on my shelf from people doing this on these engines and others like them (Ford IDIs, GMs, etc). Can also crack pistons, bend rods, bend or fracture crankshaft, blow head gasket, etc. It's the fastest and most effective way out there to turn a good engine into scrap metal!!

Same as a 6.2 or 6.5. These engines really, REALLY do not like ether. And there is no situation where ether will ever help. If the engine won't start and run on diesel, then it's not going to run on ether, as you already found out. So you get all the damage from ether and no benefit. These engines are extremely easy starting diesels when they are working right, and they are also extremely simple engines and easy to fix. If it won't start, you'll be able to figure out why without too much trouble.

Just some advice to avoid doing anything you will later regret. You want to keep the ether far away from this engine at all times, no matter how tempting it might be. I will repeat, it can never help, only harm.

Timing 180 degrees out sounds like a possibility, though if that is true then it wouldn't have "run when parked". You say it smokes when cranking to start: does it smoke a lot? If so then you definitely have fuel flowing, but if not, then fuel injector prime is a question you could check by cracking lines open at the injectors.

Also, when you say timing marks are lined up, are you talking only about the mark on the injection pump lining up with the mark on the pump mounting bracket? What about the mark on the edge of the IP drive pulley? There is a notch on the pulley flange that should line up roughly with the IP timing mark with engine at #1 TDC.

If it definitely ran when parked, then timing being off is not too likely, but I would still rough-check it with the above method. That will not tell you if the exact setting is right but will at least tell you if it jumped a tooth.

If it ran when parked but doesn't start now, one more possibility is loss of ring seal from dry or stuck rings. This is very rare but we have seen it on engines now and then after sitting a long time. Solution is to do a compression test and/or add a little lightweight motor oil or ATF to the cylinders with injectors removed, then crank with injectors out to blow excess oil away and prevent hydrolock, then reinstall injectors and attempt starting again with the cylinders wet. If the issue is compression loss at the rings, this usually brings the engine instantly back to life.

[v8volvo]

If you want to just check the valve clearance, you don't need any special tools at all for that. Just a set of feeler gauges (preferably angled ones) and probably a new valve cover gasket, if the one you remove is the old 4-piece cork style. There is an updated reusable 1-piece rubber type you will want to upgrade to unless it already has one, which it might if the head was replaced at some point.

Adjusting the clearance by replacing the shims does require special tools (tappet depressor and special shim pliers, plus of course a selection of replacement shims in different thicknesses to change the clearance), but just checking the clearance is a 5 minute job with feelers only and will answer any questions about the valves. And you're right to want to look at it, at some point, since this is routine maintenance that is important to do.

But again, if it sounds like it has even compression when cranking, then valve clearance out of spec is a highly unlikely culprit for no-start. I would suggest getting the engine running first, then immediately getting ready to replace the 20+ year old timing belt (!!), THEN during that procedure when the valve cover is off for the belt job anyway, planning to check and if necessary adjust valve clearances.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by GWebie23

So I guess I’ll pull all the glow plugs and ohm them out and see from there...

If you have a non-contact (IR) thermometer you can save yourself from R/R the GPs (the rear ones are difficult access). Cycle the GPs a few times to get them hot, don't need to crank the engine. Hold the IR thermometer close to the GP and compare its temperature to the temp of the head further away. Should show a measurable difference if the GP is working.

Originally Posted by GWebie23

Still would like to check valve shims if I can find the tool.

To check valve clearances all you need is a set of feeler gauges. That, and 10mm socket to remove the valve cover. Easy.

For cold engine:

Intake = 0.15 - 0.25mm (0.006 - 0.010 in.)
Exhaust = 0.35 - 0.45mm (0.014 - 0.018 in.)

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by ngoma

If you have a non-contact (IR) thermometer you can save yourself from R/R the GPs (the rear ones are difficult access). Cycle the GPs a few times to get them hot, don't need to crank the engine. Hold the IR thermometer close to the GP and compare its temperature to the temp of the head further away. Should show a measurable difference if the GP is working.

Good idea.

[RedArrow]

Also you could plug in the electric coolant heater overnight, in case yours has that.