Rescuing my Volvo after 3 years parked

[jbg]

I managed to get some time in to work on the car between rain and thunderstorms, just like last week! I had several goals and I'm happy to report that I met them all. I keep a collection of tools and supplies pre-packed for my weekly remote wrenching.



The first task was to remove the power steering pump. I believe the power steering return hose has been weeping, and the pump too has a leak. This was a bit of a messy process but I did get the pump removed and drained. After some liberal application of brake cleaner I can now safely handle the pump without it wanted to slip out of my hands!



Next I removed the valve cover. I used Hylomar on the sealing surfaces years ago and it looked to me like there had been no leaks. Under the valve cover things looked good.



I rolled the engine over until cylinder 1's cam lobes were pointing up, and the crank was at '0'. Then using the Volvo special tools, a breaker bar, and the ~4 foot handle from my jack, I was able to get the 27mm crank bolt out!





The bolt was tight which I expected. It was also covered in a viscous substance, almost like Vasoline. Not sure if this is a lubricant or an anti-seize compound? I'm just happy it came out undamaged.



You can see in this picture more of that Vasoline-like substance in the crank snout. I'll need to clean that out. I think the front crank seal looks good. Also note how terribly oily and gross it is down there!



I next removed the radiator. I did this for several reasons. The radiator still has oil in it from when the oil cooler ruptured a few years ago. The various fittings and hoses on the radiator really needed to be inspected. Also, I needed more room for removing the crankshaft damper. Removal was pretty straightforward. The transmission cooler lines were easy to loosen as I had done so last week. I used some Harbor Freight hose clamping pliers (that I got last week) to isolate the engine from the radiator and drained out almost a gallon of oily coolant from the radiator.







Per v8volvo's recommendation I was able to wiggle off the front damper with the timing gear still screwed to it! This was a challenge. I'm sure years of debris and corrosion was keeping it tight. I was very focused on this work. Working the damper loose took a while. In the midst of this tedious task I heard a loud thunder crack. Looking up away from my work I see that the sky is dark and the temperature lower, it's windy and about to storm. Now more determined then ever I started lightly tapping with a mallet back and forth and got it loose. It popped off the crankshaft and I hid in the car with the damper in my hands, just as the rain came down.



Hours later back in my garage I was able to remove two of those 6mm inhex bolts using a 1/4" impact driver. So I've got 2 left!

A few questions:

1. Is there anything special about the power steering return hose? It doesn't seem to have any special fittings on it.
2. Is rebuilding the power steering pump as easy as the Internet makes it out to be?
3. Should I replace the front crankshaft seal 'while I'm in there'?
4. Belts: I typically buy Continental brand; should I use them, Gates, or Dayco?
5. I had to cut a small hose from the radiator as the clamp was seized and the screw stripped; where does this hose go?
6. The fan switch (two connectors, round) popped out of the radiator when I was trying to unplug one of the connectors. How is this switch supposed to be anchored to the radiator?

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by jbg

A few questions:

1. Is there anything special about the power steering return hose? It doesn't seem to have any special fittings on it.
2. Is rebuilding the power steering pump as easy as the Internet makes it out to be?
3. Should I replace the front crankshaft seal 'while I'm in there'?
4. Belts: I typically buy Continental brand; should I use them, Gates, or Dayco?
5. I had to cut a small hose from the radiator as the clamp was seized and the screw stripped; where does this hose go?
6. The fan switch (two connectors, round) popped out of the radiator when I was trying to unplug one of the connectors. How is this switch supposed to be anchored to the radiator?

Great work!

Highly suggest you address the oil contamination in the cooling system. Otherwise it will rot the hoses from the inside out. That may also be the reason the fan switch popped out so readily (oil-soaked grommet) but that is a well known problem anyway even among the gasser crowd. I have a thread here somewhere describing the method using a fountain pump, bucket, and detergent.

Here are my answers to your questions:

1. Tom Bryant has the best description of this:https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...teering-hoses/
   
2. Depends your skills. Rebuild kits are cheap and widely available.
   
3. You mentioned all the oily crud in that area. Where did it come from? Do you see evidence trails from the valve cover, camshaft seal, headgasket? Maybe it's possible it's from the PS pump/hose? Otherwise it's the crank seal.
   
4. I don't have preference.
   
5. Goes to the overflow tank.
   
6. Press-fit, commonly held in place by a plastic tie-wrap threaded thru the convenient slots in the radiator end tank flashing.

[jbg]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Tom Bryant has the best description of this:https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...teering-hoses/

I believe that site is referencing the pressure hose. I am looking for information regarding the return hose. I think it's just a 'normal' hose. Thankfully my pressure hose seems to be in good shape.

Originally Posted by ngoma

Depends your skills. Rebuild kits are cheap and widely available.

Do you have a preference on a rebuild kit? Have you done this work yourself?

Originally Posted by ngoma

You mentioned all the oily crud in that area. Where did it come from? Do you see evidence trails from the valve cover, camshaft seal, headgasket? Maybe it's possible it's from the PS pump/hose? Otherwise it's the crank seal.

Ah yes, the oily mess. That started a crusade in me to clean it all up ~10 years ago. Unfortunately the oil cooler leaked and that became a priority, then life got in the way for several more years. My goal is to get the car mobile, drive it home, pull the engine and trans, and finally figure out the oily mess once and for all.

Originally Posted by ngoma

Press-fit, commonly held in place by a plastic tie-wrap threaded thru the convenient slots in the radiator end tank flashing.

Okay, well I'll have to take a look at the switch and see if that "plastic tie-wrap" is still there. I guess it could now be inside the radiator?

Update: I got the inhex bolts out of the crankshaft damper! I have the damper and the timing gear separated. My Dewalt 1/4" impact driver got three of them out. The last was a bit too much so I had to drill and chisel it out. I'll get some pictures posted, might be discussion-worthy.

Thanks.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by jbg

I believe that site is referencing the pressure hose. I am looking for information regarding the return hose. I think it's just a 'normal' hose. Thankfully my pressure hose seems to be in good shape.

OK, then just get a length of ATF-resistant hose, like a transmission cooler hose. PS return line is not under high pressure. Regular hose clamps should be fine.

Originally Posted by jbg

Do you have a preference on a rebuild kit? Have you done this work yourself?

Not yet. Planning to soon, also to include adjusting the orifice to get more assist at idle/low RPMs (link in one of my posts somewhere in this forum). Last I checked the FLAPS had plenty of rebuild kits and probably will for the forseeable future-- that Saginaw PS pump was OG in millions of GM vehicles.

Originally Posted by jbg

Okay, well I'll have to take a look at the switch and see if that "plastic tie-wrap" is still there. I guess it could now be inside the radiator?

Sorry maybe I should have called it zip tie? I think the term zip tie is more common? If the switch fell out the zip tie is not there.
Your grommet is oil-soaked and deteriorated. Get a new radiator fan switch grommet, replace the grommet, soap up the fan switch and grommet, install the switch into the new grommet (should require a lot of soap, force, and twisting), and secure with a zip tie like this:

IMG_1086a.jpg

NOTE: Zip tie denoted in red. Zip tie goes around the end tank, threaded thru the edge where the fins start, thru the slot, over the fan switch, holding it captive. (Imagine the fan switch is in position, with the zip tie wrapping over the top if it in my illustration there.) Insurance.

OTHER NOTE: Your coolant hoses are most likely oil soaked, especially the highest-up ones (oil floats). Time bombs. Check by wiping the inside of one. If oily residue come off, plan on replacing them. What does the inside of the overflow tank look like?

[jbg]

Thanks for the replies ngoma. I'm adding a power steering pump rebuild kit to my parts order. It seems like the most common concern is whether you need the bushing/seal for the pump-to-reservoir connection, or not. I'll get a kit with the seal.

Tie wrap and Zip Tie are synonyms. if that is the right use for that word. So you're totally correct. I believe "tie wrap" is the generic term and "Zip Tie" is trademarked. Anyway, thanks for explaining how that switch mounts. It's both complicated and simple. I appreciate editing that image -- that helped!

[jbg]

I did manage to get all four 6mm inhex bolts removed from the crankshaft damper. The first three needed PB B'laster and about 2-3 minutes of a 1/4" impact driver. However the final one required drilling and a chisel. But they all came out without damaging the damper or gear!









However I see more evidence of that Vaseline or RTV silicone on parts of the damper and gear. I also see a substance that I think could be epoxy. I am not sure what is going on here. There looks to be a chunk taken out of the gear, too.









Lastly, I believe the damper has a step or a gouge in its surface on the engine-side. I tried to take the picture to show how the surface is uneven.





Seeings how this is my first time performing this task the condition of these parts seems suspect. However I am not sure there is anything to be concerned over as I've never seen these parts before. Any thoughts? Could this be evidence of damage from the center bolt not being tight enough? Even after the bolts were removed it was difficult to get the two pieces separated; I had to use a dead blow hammer and a punch. Is that normal?

[v8volvo]

Great pictures, amazing progress!

Everything looks pretty normal to me. The timing gear only has that small section of key on the internal surface, there's nothing missing there at least as best my memory serves. I do see the broken off piece on the outer flange that serves as a belt retaining guide though. That's probably from someone dropping the gear on the floor in the past. Probably not a major issue but I suppose in some unusual situation it could pose a threat to the integrity of the belt and try to cut it up. So maybe worth replacing that gear while it's off the motor already. They are inexpensive to buy new and pretty widely available, usually not found under D24T application but they were used on many other gas/diesel 5cyl VW Audi etc. VW P/N 069 105 263.

Here BrickWerks has it for 20 GBP and they might have other things you'll need as well?https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/cra...t4-5-cylinder/

As for the balancer and any step or gouge, I'm not seeing anything worrisome there either. The critical surface that matters most is where the balancer meets the end of the crankshaft, the smallest protruding piece around where the bolt goes through. That looks square and flat to me in the photos. I see the sort of channel or gouge right around where that protruding section meets the flange where the timing gear mates up -- is that what you're referring to? If so I believe that too is normal and part of the design, though it would take finding another balancer and comparing to be sure. But in any case there is plenty of good surface there for the timing gear to tighten down flat against.

The epoxy type residue is something others of us have seen on these parts as well. The original factory installation and greenbook instructions involve use of thread locking compound that then tends to go all over the place and glue the other parts together. Many of us prefer not to use it on disassembly since the parts tend to have no problem staying put as long as the correct torque process is used. We have speculated that the locking compound was just a "belt and suspenders" approach by Volvo/Audi trying to help save an engine where proper torque might not have been achieved, trying to keep an insufficiently torqued bolt from backing out. But similar design engines (VW TDI, etc) use similar torque with no threadlocker. So most of us here just clean these parts up good with stainless brushes to get rid of that residue, then reassemble using only a little motor oil and lots of wrench torque. Nicer to take apart the next time that way.

[jbg]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

Everything looks pretty normal to me.

Copy that!

Originally Posted by v8volvo

They are inexpensive to buy new and pretty widely available, usually not found under D24T application but they were used on many other gas/diesel 5cyl VW Audi etc. VW P/N 069 105 263.

Wow, you're right. Searching for the part number shows several engine cross references. Who knew! What a relief ... I was thinking this was a D20/D24 special part.

Originally Posted by v8volvo

So most of us here just clean these parts up good with stainless brushes to get rid of that residue, then reassemble using only a little motor oil and lots of wrench torque. Nicer to take apart the next time that way.

Then that is what I will do. Some brake cleaner and elbow grease, and to just get on with it. Thanks!

Here's a question for the group: Should I replace the timing belt idler? I am referencing the idler that is to the left of the water pump, at like the 8 o'clock position. Rock Auto calls it a 'timing belt pulley'. I have not removed it, but if the bearing seems bad it looks like just the bearing can be replaced. Is doing so recommended?

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by jbg

Should I replace the timing belt idler?... if the bearing seems bad it looks like just the bearing can be replaced. Is doing so recommended?

I don't know. Does the bearing seem bad? How many miles on the engine?

Mostly what I have had to replace around there is WP and WP o-ring gasket.

Idler always seemed OK.

Do not overtension the TB.

And do not overtorque the large standoff bolt with the thin threaded section. The large hexhead section inadvertently makes us think it needs to be really torqued down.

[jbg]

Thanks for the reply. When I get back over to the car I’ll inspect it more and make a decision.