#41
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Ok so I found VE pump seal kit bosch # 1 467 010 059 it says 4,5,6 cyl mechanical VE pumps looks like it covers a lot of different makes of cars... shipped from UK for around $25 does this sound right?? Figured for the price of the two seals separately I could get a whole seal kit! Is this what I should order?
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#42
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17 MM input for non-TDI VW, all head seals are the same.
this DGK126 is the kit you want http://sto00.mailcar.net/catalog/ind...d=261038669847 You might want to check about availabliity before ordering from her. ebay seller Angelofishes also has the same kit. You may ask either one to substitute a 17MM shaft seal, or go to an industrial or bearing supplier and get a "17x28x7mm" viton double lip rotary shaft seal" Equivalent to CR/SKF 6611(metal outer) 6614(full rubber coating) . or Bosch PN 1 460 283 312 17x28x7.3 Anything more that $12 is a rip off. For the pump kit, I'd accept Bosch or SPACO, not sure about any other brand. Last edited by 745 TurboGreasel; 11-13-2013 at 06:02 PM. |
#43
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Quote:
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Also: How do you get the pulley off while the IP is still mounted to the engine in-car?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#44
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Good info above on the input shaft seal. Thanks, 745 TurboGreasel!
Be aware that replacing the input shaft seal may be a short-lived solution, if the shaft bushing has worn oblong (usually because of previous excessive IP belt tension). The excessive shaft runout will cause the new seal to fail. So far happycamper, you are at hi-press head seal, and input shaft seal. Better to remove the IP for these projects. Is there a way you can measure input shaft runout to get a better idea of the bushing condition? Yes, timing belt change requires timing tools, camshaft positioning tool, crankshaft bolt torque multiplier, and crank pulley lock holder. Sorry my terminology is off, don't have the patience to research correct tool names at the moment.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#45
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I'm pretty certain I used a DGK-121 last time I needed a seal kit, what's the difference between the 121 and 126? I do remember having to get the 17mm shaft seal separate, the 121 kit also came with a 20mm seal. |
#46
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How do you get the pulley off? pry equally from 2-3 sides(wide screwdriver or wood chisel), brass hammer. apply pressure, then tap to release taper bond. If you pry from only one side, it will be ruined. I think you could get the TDI style cam pulley puller in there if you really wanted to. Quote:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/v...hp?f=8&t=11314 |
#47
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I think the part that sucks isn't so much getting the pump off, but getting it back on the motor with it still mounted to bracket -- trying to get the two upper bolts started with the pump body right in the way, and then you have to go thru the whole belt tension routine which takes a few tries unless you get really lucky. I much prefer pulling pump on its own then being able to just drop it back in and have everything go back the way it was before... (edit: saves having to mess with the glow plug buss too!) Slightly different tension wouldn't appreciably affect timing -- I think I experimented with it once and loosening belt meant slightly more advance, tightening a little less advance, but the differences were minute, ~.01mm or thereabouts. Last edited by v8volvo; 11-13-2013 at 11:43 PM. Reason: gp's |
#48
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Unfortunately the TDI puller doesn't even come close (3 jaw ALH style is all wrong and 2 jaw AHU/1Z type has pegs that are too fat and spaced too far apart) -- you can believe that I tried both, as well as a couple other options, before I spent the money on the Volvo tool. Problem is getting something slim enough to fit between pump gear and firewall -- on almost everything, even if you can get one with jaws sized and spaced right, the head of the forcing screw runs into the firewall. I think it would not be too difficult to modify another puller to work, but it is a pretty specialized application and I don't think it would be easy to find something that would do the job right off the shelf, other than the OE 9995204. |
#49
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You have to use the open end till you can move it around some. I don't have any of the bi'direction type wrenches. mostly I reach under the pump and up.
a whole lot of force is not needed, especially if you set up some vibration with a 'tap'. 2 prong puller sort of like this I made one from a picture online, but don't recall seeing the actual VW tool. mine is 2 large bolts with ground down heads that are put through the pulley holes, and rotated to lock, then the force screw is turned. I can't find the picture now. |
#50
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RR, the 244diesel
How`s the President? ) Running again?
Last edited by RedArrow; 01-15-2014 at 05:43 PM. |
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