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  #21  
Old 11-18-2013, 07:18 AM
anders anders is offline
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Any progress been made to the car?
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12mm pump heads, ARP stud kits and GTD nozzles available! http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1646
NA intake manifolds and 240 turbo pans for sale.
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1982 242 D24+T/M46- Super pumped! Build thread:
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  #22  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:13 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Vehicle: 1982 240GL
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Thanks for asking, Anders. Not much progress in the last month or so because I've been busy working on the boat and fishing. Got the boat hauled and just about winterized, so I'll be getting back to work on the car soon. I have the head disassembled and cleaned. Next , I'll lap the valves and reassemble. I will post my progress.
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  #23  
Old 02-24-2018, 01:13 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
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5years went by....

How is the motor?
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  #24  
Old 02-26-2018, 10:14 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: 1982 240GL
Posts: 41
Default It's been a while...

I'm back and ready to complete the job. Everything is removed from the engine and all replacement parts are in. I had a hell of a time removing the bolt for the harmonic balancer. I don't have the special tool for that, so I used a strap wrench around the pulley and a breaker with a four foot pipe attached. The first strap wrench from Harbor Freight broke its rubber strap, but had success with an old webbed one I have from my Army days. Now all that needs to be done before reassembling the engine is lap four leaky valves and reassemble the cylinder head. This thing is leaving my garage soon, whether on her own power or by hook.
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2018, 11:51 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
...the bolt for the harmonic balancer. I don't have the special tool for that...
Have you checked around for someone close to you that can loan you the special tools? Otherwise, how are you going to tighten that bolt sufficiently? If it comes loose it will ruin your day.
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2018, 01:23 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: 1982 240GL
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Ngoma--I'm thinking of making a tool for that when the time comes.

One weird thing I noticed on the cooling fan is one of the blade tips is broken off. Should the fan be replaced?
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2018, 01:26 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: 1982 240GL
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Fanhttp://d24t.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1133&stc=1&d=151976679 2
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fan.jpg (80.3 KB, 7 views)
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  #28  
Old 02-28-2018, 10:44 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yes you should replace that fan. Safety and/or balance issues. What condition are the motor mounts in?
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  #29  
Old 02-28-2018, 06:26 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
Ngoma--I'm thinking of making a tool for that when the time comes.
Don't make the tool, I can loan you the necessary tools and I'm not far from your area.
I just need to plan a few d24 projects myself but we'll figure out how and when to have " a d24 meet. "
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  #30  
Old 02-28-2018, 08:30 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: 1982 240GL
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Ngoma-- The motor mounts seem pretty solid and there's no damage around the fan shroud. So it's a mystery as to why only one blade would be broken. I've been looking around for replacement fan, but to no avail. If anyone knows where there's one available, I'd be interested.

RedArrow-- Thank you for offering to lend the tools-very nice of you! It will be a while before I get to that point. Right now I'm having issues with the four valves sealing for cylinders 5 and 6 in the replacement cylinder head. I tried lapping them twice, but they're not passing my compressed air test. I'm still getting tiny bubbles. The surfaces on the valves and seats look good, so it could be that I need new valves, seats or springs. Next I'll get out the books for specs and take measurements. I didn't want to get this technical, but just can't, in good conscience throw things back together knowing there are deficiencies that can be corrected within reason. The other valves are sealing good though. Could it be possible that the compressed air is popping open the valve a bit? I'm blowing about 100psi into the ports with a less than airtight seal around the air nozzle and port. Is there a better way to check the valves?
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