1989 245 b230 to D24t build

[anders]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

Sorry for this off-topic question Anders, in your case do you also need to change/swap the fuel gauge in the instrument cluster to make it work properly with the `new` diesel-specific sending unit that you just installed? Is the fuel gauge part in the cluster also diesel-specific, partly or in any way?

(I`m just trying to figure out what to do with my ``once gasser then td- swapped`` 745 car`s annoying fuel gauge. It doesnt work correctly, it actually works the opposite way: showing empty when full... and vice versa; or not showing anything at all, until either fully full or fully empty. )

I do have four full clusters from other 700 cars,
one of them is from a 146k 1987 780 gasser v6 Bertone, the other is from a 242k 740 gasser appr 1985-88, and I have a cluster from a factory TD 1985 740. ((And I have the cluster from the 442k TD which belongs to my daily car--I DONT KNOW WHETHER OR NOT IT HAS THE CLUSTER FROM THE GASSER 1986 740 B230FT OR NOT. MAYBE IT IS FROM THE DONOR 85 TD CAR-- but I think I can see an orange wire that sits in the third spot of one electrical main joint which is glowplug related so I think the cluster is NOT from the donor td car and it simply got the glow feature created by v8.)

These 4 instr clusters look Very similar but have differences in wiring and solder connections are at various spots But the fuel gauge part looks identical in almost all of these clusters. I thought of swapping the fuel gauge part and see. But the secret may be in the fuel tank sender unit differences of a TD car versus a Gasser car?
Thank you for reading. tyt sending your ideas if too busy with the nice build. Sorry for the offtopic question again.

Update. Oh, I realized your build is not a 700 but a 200 car.

As far as I know all the 240 fuel sending units read all the same resistance full/empty.
Now the 740/760’s ect.. I do know there is different values on the senders, when I did my 1991 745 diesel swap I went to install the diesel sending unit and it measured just the opposite of the original gas sender.

[anders]

The car is alive! Drove it out of the shop yesterday. Just a few little things to finish up here and there; wire the mechanical gauges for the backlighting, wire up the OD and put some miles on it before it leaves to its new home! Hopefully all the surprises have been found and I won’t have too many while road testing it.

[anders]

Well.. I now need to rebuild/clean the injectors. I installed this sweet low mileage engine that I built a few years back and installed into this wagon. The engine ran great but the injection pump was worn out and leaking so I replaced it with a pump that I built about 6 years ago.

The engine went from easy starting, clean burning and peppy to hard starting, smoky and sluggish after I swapped pumps. Checked timing several times, all good. I ran this injection pump years ago and it was perfect. Well I decided that possibly there was gummed up diesel in the delivery valves and it sent it out to the injectors. I pulled all six injectors and tested them, all failed! So now it’s time to clean/rebuild them!

[ngoma]

I have the same POP tester. Do you find it leaks at the valve stem?

For POP testing I like to use a tallish glass jar with a metal screw cap with a hole cut in the center of the cap. Hole large enough for the injector to sit in, so most of the fumes and spray droplets are contained in the jar, not my lungs. Still easy to see the spray pattern in the glass jar.

Jar not needed for testing for drips at just under POP pressure.

[anders]

Originally Posted by ngoma

I have the same POP tester. Do you find it leaks at the valve stem? .

Mine doesn’t leak, it’s been used a lot testing Cummins 12v and 24 valve injectors. I did notice my gauge is around 10 bar off when testing 155 bar injectors, so they usually pop at 145 according to my gauge.

[anders]

So I’m baffled! I can’t get this engine to run as it should. It’s hard starting, smoky, loud, slow throttle response, and has maybe 40% the power it should. The smoke out of the exhaust is unburnt fuel.

So this engine has roughly 10,000 miles on a fresh 1mm overbore and rebuilt head by cylinder head rebuilders in Portland. Ran great when I pulled it out of the car I had it in. What I did when getting it ready for this project; new timing belt, water pump and idler, checked and adjusted valves, and installed ARP head studs.

Before installing the rebuilt injectors I compression tested it, 400-430 psi on all, so compression is good.

I have rebuilt the injectors, all spray and pop correctly, I have checked the fuel lines and fittings several times for air intrusion and have adjusted the timing from anywhere from .60mm to 1.1mm, no change.

I have ran it without the intake, without the exhaust, with the turbo removed, ect, no change. I’m stumped.

I guess I will try a different injection pump.

[ngoma]

Wondering if when rebuilding the IP you could have reassembled it 180deg out? This came up recently on another thread. The inner end of the main shaft has those two prongs, they are not really keyed, can fit either way into slots in the distributor. There is a specific clocking orientation where you visually align the key slot in the main shaft with a pin in the distributor plate, but it will just as easily install 180 out and rotate freely and not bind.

Suggest before swapping the IP, retime it 180 deg. out.

[anders]

Well the pump was 180 off. So when I rotated the sprocket 180 I noticed another notch.. well it just so happens that the sprocket that I was using had a near perfect chip on the edge what looks to be nearly 180 from the factory notch. So when I assemble these I always mark the ‘0’ mark and the notch on the IP sprocket with a silver paint pen to make it easy to spot. Well I marked the non-factory chip/notch in the sprocket. I’m so surprised I didn’t notice it before! Well I threw that sprocket in my scrap pile as it cost me many many hours :-(

I’m surprised that the engine was able to start that easy 180 off. The engine took about 4 seconds of crank time to start, and it actually idled smooth! I have never had one start this easy 180 off or idle that well.

Timing is now correct and it’s running like it should! :-)
Thanks ngoma!

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by anders

Well the pump was 180 off. So when I rotated the sprocket 180 I noticed another notch.. well it just so happens that the sprocket that I was using had a near perfect chip on the edge what looks to be nearly 180 from the factory notch. So when I assemble these I always mark the ‘0’ mark and the notch on the IP sprocket with a silver paint pen to make it easy to spot. Well I marked the non-factory chip/notch in the sprocket. I’m so surprised I didn’t notice it before! Well I threw that sprocket in my scrap pile as it cost me many many hours :-(

I’m surprised that the engine was able to start that easy 180 off. The engine took about 4 seconds of crank time to start, and it actually idled smooth! I have never had one start this easy 180 off or idle that well.

Timing is now correct and it’s running like it should! :-)
Thanks ngoma!

Amazing, and a good call from ngoma to check it.

Funny how when you are "sure" it's not one thing, you'll try a million other less likely things first before coming back to what should have been obvious all along. I hate getting bitten by that situation. One time I had one go 180 off like this, but due in that case to a mistake on my part, and I was so sure I couldn't have timed it 180 out that I think I started looking at glow plugs, fuel prime, etc, even though it was an engine that had just been running no problem before I took the belts off it. Sounds like the same kind of outcome here. But in your case even more crazy because that trick sprocket would have made it look exactly right even when it wasn't, what a trip!

At least you know it must have great compression if it started and ran that well with the timing 180 off. So what else is left on the swap now, must be pretty near done?

[anders]

I had to share the sprocket, the correct one is on the right.
I’m pretty sure the one on the left was modified because someone had built a pump with the cam plate 180 off., now I’m unsure if my leaking pump that I pulled is 180 off or not. I’m assuming it is as I usually keep the sprocket with the pump when I remove them from the engine.
If you look closely you can see the factory notch has a chip in it and the 180 notch looks factory, but it’s actually cut deeper now that you compare a factory sprocket with it side by side. Crazy! I don’t know how many needless hours I spent tracking non-issues because of that sprocket!