Jason's "built" D24T engine build

[lmwatbullrun]

Jason (or anybody else):

I thought I saw mention of the D24 having more valve lift than the D24T cam. Is that correct? What is the difference?

[Jason]

Its supposed to make more power... I'm going to get one and take some real measurements on it. I think the difference was in duration though, but all I have really heard has mostly been generic stuff like "the NA cam is better". I haven't found any concrete info or actual specs anywhere.

Jason

[lmwatbullrun]

Originally Posted by Jason

Its supposed to make more power... I'm going to get one and take some real measurements on it. I think the difference was in duration though, but all I have really heard has mostly been generic stuff like "the NA cam is better". I haven't found any concrete info or actual specs anywhere.

Jason

The reason I ask is because I have 2 spare d24 engines for my NA D24. One is supposed to be good, well maintained with less than 90k when it was pulled, the other is a 'gentle puffer' with 160K but supposedly starts and runs and supposedly was never overheated. My thought was that if the NA cam indeed had more lift and more power, I have the ability to make that happen. I'd guess that ARP studs might be a good idea, as longer intake duration would increase the effective compression and raise EGT, even absent any messing with the waste gate settings.

On another note, I have heard that these heads cannot be milled if they are warped, as the camshaft bearing surface is thus warped as well. You spoke of a milled head- please tell me exactly what you had done to it?

[Jason]

If your talking about running arp studs in a NA engine that would be a waste of money... They don't make near enough power to blow the gasket. Even if you were going to swap the NA cam into a turbo diesel, the difference in power isn't night and day from what I understand, its more like "every little bit helps" kinda deal. Studs aren't needed untill you are trying to push some big boost.

The service literature says the head cant be milled (same thing is said for the 4 and 5 cyl heads to in the VW manuals). Thats all BS, these heads have been being milled for years with good results. Not like you can just go down to the dealer and pick up another head. Granted, if its warped to hell milling it wont help. If its off a little, you can take a few thousands off it to have a fresh surface and minimize the warpage at the gasket surface. If the cam shaft area was warped so badly to where it would be a problem for the cam, the whole head would probably look like a banana anyway and would be junk.

Jason

[Slobodan]

About the head warping stuffs.
I just did a head gasket replacement on a customers car. The head was original thickness and to bring the sealing surface back to flat twenty thousands had to be cut. Also the valves could be wiggled ALOT. 6 ~ 8 mm So new valve guides and seals plus a bit of valve grind. 300$ later new head!

100k on the motor. Some reason or another 10 years ago the motor lost the timing belt and a redneck replaced the head, didn't torque the head bolts correctly, left the heater return pipe hose clamp looose. No cooling fan shroud! And the oil feed banjo bolt was alll messed up.

Came though pretty good. It can turn both tires easily.

[Jason]

NEW PICS AND PROGRESS!

Well, after being at a local tractor pull and seeing some Cat diesels up close, it was apparent that my color yellow really wasn't right, it was too bright. I made a trip down to the local Cat dealer and picked up a couple cans of genuine Cat paint, and a 1R-0750 2 micron Cat fuel filter which will be getting installed on the new engine as well (hey it has to match!). Anyway, here are a couple pics, they really dont do it justice... It really has that industrial look to it. The paint has a nice gloss to it and really layed out nice, not thin and watery like that other yellow I used. I decided to paint the head as well, since all the Cat diesels I have seen are all yellow. I do plan on having some stuff black and silver for a little more detailed look rather than just drowned in yellow. Granted some of you may think this is a waste of time (Alex keeps giving me shit about it) but for as much work as this is, it might as well look good!

As for progress, the head is just sitting on, not bolted yet. I did install the oil pump, rear main seal, oil pickup and oil pan. I'm waiting on buying head studs, and getting a head gasket. The one I bought off ebay from Europe was HUGE dissapointment. Turned out not to even be a steel one, and to top it off, the dumb ass mail lady bent it in half to stuff it in my mail box!!! I still would have used it even if it was fiber since it was a 2 notch which is what I needed. What a waste, straight to the trash. Oh well, here are the pics:






Jason

[verdigo]

Originally Posted by Jason

Thats interesting.... Haven't seen a water cooled head with cam bearings.

Jason

They were not stock. It appears to have been line bored and cam bearings installed to get back to the original dimensions

[v8volvo]

Looking great. I like the new color. Not sure I would have painted the head, I like to see the shiny aluminum... but it looks sharp.

Flat black for the valve cover I assume? Or if you are going to continue with the Cat theme gloss black may be better...

[Jason]

Thanks, I think gloss black. I was on the fence about the head too, before I had it nice clean aluminum. All the cat diesel I saw all had the head painted the same color as the block though. I really wanted to get it kinda close to the industrial cat look. I'm not going to drown the whole thing in yellow like they do, but the head was just too much aluminum for the look I'm going for.

George, did you get my pm?

Jason

[240diesel]

awesome Jason!!!!

You bring two favorites of me togheter on a really nice and professional way.Love to see such nice photo's.
I keep watching you build!