Volkswagen 2066 = Volvo 5194?

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by bigvolvoboy

The method you are describing is the same as this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5Fb...index=3&t=219s correct? Just skipping the part where he entirely removes the pump. Just have to reseat the IP making sure that it lines up with the marking. Then loosen the rear camshaft pulley and do the timing procedure by rotating that pulley which then rotates the IP but not the cam? I hope that makes sense but lmk if it doesn't.

Almost. Rotate the rear camshaft pulley which (via the rear belt) rotates the IP pulley. The IP body stays stationary. Hence no need to loosen the injector hardlines at the distribution head. And no need to remove the IP or its pulley or other associated items.

You are correct that the camshaft itself stays stationary, as does the rest of the engine internal rotating parts.

What is important to understand about the notches on the IP pulley, IP and IP bracket?

The notch on the IP bracket is not important for the timing procedure. In fact, many of us prefer to have the IP mounted rotated further outward from the engine to make future access to the rear GPs easier.

However: The notch on the IP pulley and the notch on the IP are important to the timing procedure. When they line up (can ignore the notch on the bracket) that should indicate start of injection event for injector #1. But it is not high precision enough for accurately setting the timing, it is just a rough visual. That is why you use the dial indicator, which is a more precise instrument than coarse notches in metal.

[bigvolvoboy]

That makes a lot of sense and good to know the notch on the bracket don't matter. Would you recommend replacing GPs since the car has just been sitting or do those usually last? Also I'm going to be replacing all belts so I'm gonna have to loosen the whole pump to install it but good to know for future timing adjustments. Appreciate the thorough explanation.

Side note I found 5187 for a beautiful price but it's all the way in Texas and the guy doesn't want to ship it...

[RedArrow]

https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?p=4985

or here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18391401833...3ABFBM8K7i4rdh

Getting the glow plugs out would be a good thing to see how the tips look. They should also light up glowing red (12Volts) in appr 5-7 (max 9) seconds.

The proper, quality glow plugs are cheap (not expensive at all). Good (BEST) ones are made by Bosch, they are the Duraterms, part number 80010, i think (double check!). Should be about $6-7 each. Cheap! DO NOT ever accept Champion glowplugs. Junk quality, the tips of low quality glowplugs can puff up and then may land inside the engine. Even if they work/look ok, do not reuse those.

I would def take your plugs out to get them tested. If anyone used starter fluid, or simply cycled them for too long, or too many times, they might have gone bad. Your chances that they are actually not fresh, are high.
If two or more are bad, the car will not start. Where you are, I would say you need minimum 5 plugs to start it. Can be tricky even with 6. ))


Maybe speak with Harry and ask what and when he used for glowplugs but that wont guarantee that at least some of them are not bad (excessive amounts of starting attempts, starting fluids used, glowplug over-cycling, bad relay etc etc)

You could technically just get the front 4 out, easier access than moving the pump, test the 4, see first if they are okay. See if they are ok, also see if they look okay. This gives you an idea of the other two...sometimes.


The tips should not be puffy, cracked, chipped or deformed in any way. Eventually you DO want all 6 glowplugs in there in perfect condition, asap. Even in the hottest Summer, glowplugs are actually needed and will turn on at least once a day (for the first start). Bosch Duraterms are superb quality. Sold at R()ck/\uto as well.



If all is double checked with all of the required basic settings of the engine, do you think you can you just wait with "removing all belts" ?
if the engine was put together recently, the timing belt should not be in bad condition.

It was like only a year ago that PO assembled this unit. Any signs of oil or crimping on the belt? What makes you think it needs a timing belt?


I would FIRST reset the engine as per the Greenbook procedure then see how/if it starts.

What does it look/feel/sound like when you rotate the engine by hand (all the way around, TWICE at least!! ... always do it by the 27mm crank pulley not by the top (cam) pulley). Is the basic setting done by PO? There`s a section in Greenbook called 'basic setting of d24 engine'.


Sorry about the amount of advice,
IDK what stage you are at...
Where are you with all the diagnoses?

A good article:
https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/blog/co...ailure-causes/

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by bigvolvoboy

Would you recommend replacing GPs since the car has just been sitting or do those usually last?

No but if it was having difficulty starting it's indicated to test them. Remove, attach battery jumping cable to each end, and the other to the car battery. GP tip should glow bright red within a few seconds.

Originally Posted by bigvolvoboy

Also I'm going to be replacing all belts so I'm gonna have to loosen the whole pump to install it...

For that you loosen the mounting bracket to engine. It slides up and down to provide slack for belt replacement, and setting belt tension (not too tight, otherwise it will oblong the IP mainshaft bushing and create a stubborn leak that even new seals cannot solve for long). BUT: if the rear belt is not in bad shape why do all the extra work? If it fails the engine stops running but no other damage occurs, unlike the TB when it fails causes catastrophic engine internal damage.

[bigvolvoboy]

I finally convinced the guy to ship them to me so I should be getting it for a beautiful price. I'll be sure to pull all the GPs out and see what brand they are and test them. Since they're so cheap I wouldn't mind replacing them to guarantee good working GPs. The loads of advice is very helpful and I appreciate it haha. The belts actually look
relatively new so you're probably right about holding off on that and to actually get the engine to start first. I haven't tried cranking it by hand but the weather is a lot better so I'll probably get everything out the way and see how she rotates. I don't think the PO did the 'basic setting of d24 engine' because he never mentioned timing or anything but I'll have a chat with him and see. Again, appreciate the heavy amount of advice it's looking like I may actually be able to resurrect my first D24!

[bigvolvoboy]

Yea I looked over them today and the belts look pretty fresh and not damaged in anyway so I guess I'll hold off for now.